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Goggles Pizano · 04-03-2008, 10:54 AM

Narvo;

If they have in fact fixed the pull by adjusting the caster to attain the difference required between sides (usually 1/2 to 1 degree), then I wouldn't have a problem with keeping the vehicle. You would be surprised how much of this type of "adjusting" goes on. We used to grind out holes and aftermarket tool manufacturers actually make add ons to fix these kinds of problems. I've seen where a fix is to put a smaller diameter bolt in the upper bolt hole of the strut-to-spindle mount to get the adjustment necessary, and then they supply a wedge as well to put between the spindle and strut to keep things from changing. It is very common now-a-days for the manufacturers to make vehicles with no adjustments for caster/camber.
I think one of the biggest downfalls that you (and most of the others here having problems) have been running into is inexperienced front end guys. The specs produced by Auto Manufacturers are what we like to call guidelines. In fact, a lot of the time, we wouldn't even follow them. If I set all front ends to what the factory wants for toe, they would be back in a month with bald tires. These specs give you the best "overall" driving experience, but every vehicle is different and has to be treated as such.
Also, caster doesn't/won't cause tire wear. Tire wear is caused by toe and hard cornering, and secondly camber (and only if it is VERY excessive). Some Toyota's run 2 degrees Camber. If you ran that on an older chev, it would destroy the tires. So, each front end is different depending on design.
If you have the specs of the before, you could even just type them in here. The ones I am interested in is the left and right Caster and camber.

BTW.... we used to adjust Ford trucks by BENDING the front I-beams. LOL! And this was a factory solution...

04-03-2008, 10:54 AM	#104 (permalink)
Goggles Pizano Newbie Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 6 Gallery: 0	"Fudging" alignment settings Narvo; If they have in fact fixed the pull by adjusting the caster to attain the difference required between sides (usually 1/2 to 1 degree), then I wouldn't have a problem with keeping the vehicle. You would be surprised how much of this type of "adjusting" goes on. We used to grind out holes and aftermarket tool manufacturers actually make add ons to fix these kinds of problems. I've seen where a fix is to put a smaller diameter bolt in the upper bolt hole of the strut-to-spindle mount to get the adjustment necessary, and then they supply a wedge as well to put between the spindle and strut to keep things from changing. It is very common now-a-days for the manufacturers to make vehicles with no adjustments for caster/camber. I think one of the biggest downfalls that you (and most of the others here having problems) have been running into is inexperienced front end guys. The specs produced by Auto Manufacturers are what we like to call guidelines. In fact, a lot of the time, we wouldn't even follow them. If I set all front ends to what the factory wants for toe, they would be back in a month with bald tires. These specs give you the best "overall" driving experience, but every vehicle is different and has to be treated as such. Also, caster doesn't/won't cause tire wear. Tire wear is caused by toe and hard cornering, and secondly camber (and only if it is VERY excessive). Some Toyota's run 2 degrees Camber. If you ran that on an older chev, it would destroy the tires. So, each front end is different depending on design. If you have the specs of the before, you could even just type them in here. The ones I am interested in is the left and right Caster and camber. BTW.... we used to adjust Ford trucks by BENDING the front I-beams. LOL! And this was a factory solution...