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2016 Sorento Stereo Replacement Guide

173K views 408 replies 42 participants last post by  steelwindmachine 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, it's been a few months/half a damn year since I said I was going to put this together, so its time.

First off, this was all done on a 2016 EX with the UVO tragedy they called a stereo. Other models will be similar looking at my wiring diagrams. I'll post up the manual pages for the other stereos in a follow-up post/I don't have them handy at the moment.

All the basic disclaimers stand. This is the internet, you'd be silly to just blindly follow anything, right? I've done a lot of stereos in a lot of vehicles, so I'm confident in my skills and procedures. If you aren't, then don't. Ask questions, proceed cautiously, you break it, you bought it, don't swim within one hour of eating.

Oh, and this will be broken up into several posts because I'm hitting all sorts of "too many words" and "too many images" errors...

The Physical

Metra makes a very nice dash kit for the Sorento ( 95-7366B ) and I'm quite impressed how well it snaps into the factory console. When you clip them together, make sure you go around all edges of the adapter and make sure every clip is engaged. When done, it'll be rock-solid.

Because the stock stereo has that silly split face (CD slot high, screen low), the actual head unit sits very high in the dashboard. An aftermarket stereo, moved down to the lower portion of the console, requires a couple modifications to the vehicle. The first one induces the biggest pucker factor as it requires you to cut what appears to be a very important support member out of the dashboard. I absolutely hate doing modifications to vehicles that require changes you can't undo or parts you can't replace (and the dashboard falls into both categories). After realizing there was no way around this, I made the cut and was pleasantly surprised to find that there was zero impact to the stability of the dashboard. You'll be curious why it was even there to begin with.

The second modification also revolves around the odd placement of the original stereo. There is a metal bracket welded to the cross-member of the dash that the back of the stock head unit rests on. This bracket sits right about in the middle of the back of your new stereo and robs the otherwise cavernous install area of the depth needed to mount the new unit. This little bugger wasn't mentioned anywhere in the Metra instructions, so I did as any go-rilla would and simply bent the bracket out of the way (push up/back). If you ever need to go back to stock, just yank it back down.

Tips:
Buy a trim tool kit No, really. That center dash assembly is clipped in tighter than the tow hitch. The Metra installation video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahOVCBY-cT4) does a very good job of showing how the console comes apart, but they make it look comically easy to remove. Prepare to sweat a little, but rest assured, if you take your time and exercise care, you shouldn't damage anything.
Remove almost all of the white retention clips before reinstalling If you ever plan on going back into your dash for any reason (and even if you don't), save yourself the headache and potential for damaging very expensive parts. I pulled almost all of the white plastic clips off of the center console portion, leaving 4 in the corners to do the work. These 4 are more than substantial for the job, trust me. Subsequent jaunts into my dash still required more force than I felt comfortable exerting.


The Electrical​

This stereo was one of the more interesting installations I've done in some time. Even though some headaches are to be expected with early models of a new generation, companies like Metra usually have their products dialed in from the get-go. The excellent fit of the dash kit made me think this was going to be just another cakewalk. As some of you have already learned, this is not the case. It turns out Kia moved to a partial CAN-BUS stereo this time around and Metra didn't get the memo. While this oversight required moving some pins and adding others, there's silver around them clouds. Kia delivers a reverse signal right to the stereo, no need to go hunting/splicing. You also have your Aux and USB ports delivered right to the harness in plain wires, no convoluted media integration unit to interface with. And the most exciting finding? The camera. Sure, it requires an oddball 6.5v to run, but get this: the guide lines that move when you turn the steering wheel? They're built into the camera and will remain functional on your aftermarket head unit. And I'll show you how to supply the proper voltage for $8.99.

Pins pins pins.
Let's start out with the harness. Metra 70-7304 is the basic plug and wires version of their harness offering for the truck. There's another unit pre-wired for the ASWC-1 steering wheel interface, but I bought that separately and wired it myself. Given that they didn't have the correct wiring in the first place (as you're about to learn), I have a feeling this was the simpler plan in the long run.

Here's what Metra thought you needed:



Let's start with what's actually there. The green/orange wire and black wires to the right are what are meant to go to the ASWC-1 steering wheel interface unit. Problem is, they're in blank positions on the 2016 Sorento. These two pins should be removed and set aside for later. The blue/pink wire is the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). NOTE: If you are installing a navigation stereo with navigation built-in, VSS is required to assist your GPS accuracy and should be left in-place/used accordingly. If you are using a stereo like mine that uses Android Auto as its GPS (in other words, it has no built-in GPS reciever), you can leave it in-place/unused or pull it out and reuse it elsewhere.

Now let's look at what's missing. Here's a picture of the harness hanging out of the Sorento's dash:



There's a lot more wires there, aren't there? We will be adding 8 new wires to the Metra harness to properly interface your new stereo:

Aux Right
Aux Left
Aux Ground
Camera Signal +
Camera Signal -
Camera Power + (6.5v)
Camera Power - (Ground) -Large Blade-Type Pin
Reverse Signal

But... how do I wire these up? Well, you could go buy a couple more harnesses from Metra to steal pins. The cheaper option is to go buy a bunch of these:


(http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/963716-2/?qs=Ykyshr6pipJNGw2zMx%2bfWw==)

I bought 15 because I had planned on buggering some up and wanted some extra for my on-hand stock. You can probably get by with 11 or 12 (do your own math, even I don't trust mine). Properly crimped with an official crimper (not the red/blue/yellow wire stripper/tab smasher you get at Home Depot), they'll fit right into the plug. Since most of us don't have this kind of crimper available, you'll need to do a test fit and shape the crimp tabs with a needle nose pliers. Solder the wire in and don't bother shrink wrapping anything, it won't fit. Once you press the wire into the back of the harness, flip to the business end and GENTLY pull each pin into place with a needle nose pliers (you may hear or feel a very slight click). Please note these pins are slightly shorter than the ones Metra has. This is not a problem, they will fully engage as long as you make sure they are seated properly in the harness.
 
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#2 ·
So all of that out of the way, let's move on to the actual meat as to what needs to be re-pinned:

Stock Metra Harness


Move pins 4 and 17 to 1 and 13 respectively


When complete should look like this


Add pins to positions 6, 7, 8, 9, 18, 19 and 21. I have them color-coded to illustrate function (not actual wire colors): Red=Camera, Green=Aux and Blue=Reverse Signal.


Right about now you should be asking why I left pin 23 out. Well, this is where you have to make decisions. Most aftermarket stereo manufacturers recommend running dedicated lines for the constant +12 and GND on a stereo. I always do this to make sure I supply the internal amps with enough juice. Realistically speaking, the stock wires are fine, but in this case, running extra wires left me with pins 12 and 24 unused. I simply shifted pin 24 on the Metra harness over to position 23 and used that for my camera ground.

Next let's connect your new wires:

Aux Input Cut a spare 3.5mm audio cable and connect the Right channel wire to pin 8, the Left channel wire to pin 21 and the Ground wire to pin 9.
Camera Input Cut a spare RCA cable and connect the central signal wire to pin 6 and the ground/shield wire to pin 18.
Camera Power Run 2 wires from pins 7 (+) and 23 (-) over to the fuse box area. Make note on the far end which wire is which as this will be important later.
Reverse Wire Connect this wire to the Reverse Signal wire on your new head unit's harness. This wire will tell the stereo when to display the reverse camera on the screen.
CAN-BUS Wires If you plan on using the ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Integration module, the wires from pins 1 and 13 will connect to the appropriate wires on the harness. If you do not plan to use the ASWC leave them disconnected.

As far as the wiring harnesses are concerned, connect the remaining wires as directed by the instructions.
 
#378 ·
So all of that out of the way, let's move on to the actual meat as to what needs to be re-pinned:

Stock Metra Harness

Move pins 4 and 17 to 1 and 13 respectively

When complete should look like this

Add pins to positions 6, 7, 8, 9, 18, 19 and 21. I have them color-coded to illustrate function (not actual wire colors): Red=Camera, Green=Aux and Blue=Reverse Signal.

Right about now you should be asking why I left pin 23 out. Well, this is where you have to make decisions. Most aftermarket stereo manufacturers recommend running dedicated lines for the constant +12 and GND on a stereo. I always do this to make sure I supply the internal amps with enough juice. Realistically speaking, the stock wires are fine, but in this case, running extra wires left me with pins 12 and 24 unused. I simply shifted pin 24 on the Metra harness over to position 23 and used that for my camera ground.

Next let's connect your new wires:

Aux Input Cut a spare 3.5mm audio cable and connect the Right channel wire to pin 8, the Left channel wire to pin 21 and the Ground wire to pin 9.
Camera Input Cut a spare RCA cable and connect the central signal wire to pin 6 and the ground/shield wire to pin 18.
Camera Power Run 2 wires from pins 7 (+) and 23 (-) over to the fuse box area. Make note on the far end which wire is which as this will be important later.
Reverse Wire Connect this wire to the Reverse Signal wire on your new head unit's harness. This wire will tell the stereo when to display the reverse camera on the screen.
CAN-BUS Wires If you plan on using the ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Integration module, the wires from pins 1 and 13 will connect to the appropriate wires on the harness. If you do not plan to use the ASWC leave them disconnected.

As far as the wiring harnesses are concerned, connect the remaining wires as directed by the instructions.
Are the pinouts described in this thread still applicable to the 2019 Sorento?
 
#3 · (Edited)
We are now left with two remaining tasks: backup camera power and the USB port down by the Aux port.

Let's start with the USB. If your aftermarket stereo has a simple USB port on the back, find a donor USB cable and chop off its head (leave about 6" to a foot of extra cord so you can maneuver things during install). Solder one of the previously purchased Mouser pins on the end of each wire in the USB cable. Now if you know which pin is which, you can simply plug them into the truck's USB cable using the table below:



If you don't know which pin is which, an arguably simpler way involves a multimeter. Plug your chopped cable into the USB port in your console and test resistance between each wire on the chopped cable and the pins on the plug behind the stereo. Once you identify which wire is connected to which pin, simply plug them in and tape/wrap to secure in place.

Finally, let's give the backup camera some power. The OEM stereo uses the reverse signal wire to send power back to the camera straight from the head unit. Two problems here... 1) you no longer have that circuitry in the head unit to drop the voltage to 6.5v and 2) even if you did, it would only activate in reverse. Most aftermarket stereos allow you to view the reverse camera while driving. This is because some people use them as rear-view mirrors when they have an obstructed view, or maybe they just like to watch their trailer. Either way, we're going to wire the thing up so the camera is on all the time, allowing you to use this feature of your head unit.

But first, let's address that pesky 6.5v.

Go buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q48BRFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a simple step-down voltage regulator with a digital display to set your voltage. It's no more difficult than 2 wires in and 2 wires out. Push a couple buttons to set the voltage, and walk away. I've built a lot of circuits in my day, and planned to for this project. Frankly, for $9 this is a no-brainer (there's an analog version you set with a screwdriver if you want to save a whole dollar). We want the camera to run only when the vehicle is on, so find an open fuse slot that only powers up when the ignition is on. Crimp a flat blade terminal on to the end of a wire and stick it into the power side of the aforementioned fuse slot. Run another wire to ground and put these into the two terminals on the left side of the circuit board. Now connect the + and - wires for the camera (you marked them like I suggested, right? ;)

Done.

Well, find a place to stash the board where it won't touch metal or get damaged otherwise (some of this is on you to figure out). I attached mine to the top of my fuse block so if necessary, I can open the fuse door, crane my neck and see what's what. YMMV. But after that... Bob's your uncle. Now when you turn on your stereo and activate reverse, you have a camera with bendy lines that follow your steering wheel/project your path of destruction. If you turn it on driving forward, you get to view your actual path of destruction.

Tips:
If you need a little extra power but don't feel like going full-on amp-in-the-back Alpine's KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier is tiny and there's a perfect spot for it in the center console on the floor. Go under your glovebox and pull the panel to the console under the dash (I'll post a picture of this area later). It's directly under the stereo area and the Power Pack fits perfectly right along the shifter cable.
Who wants more USBSSES?? My wife's Avic 4100 came with 2 USB ports, one for phone integration and the other is for blenders and ham sandwiches. Or if you want to put a memory stick in it, that works too. I bought this guy from Amazon to replace the port in the Armrest: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011FMZS6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking at it now, the dual USB version is missing, there's just combo units. Well hell, if you want an Aux or HDMI, there you go.


Enjoy/don't run anyone over.

(I'll be editing this for hours to clean it up and add more pictures as I find them, stay tuned)
 
#342 ·
On the left of the steering wheel are a green phone button and a red phone button, do those function? Does the voice button work? I'm trying to figure out which steering wheel functions you absolutely can't be used now. Like for example, i can hit the voice button and ask to call for example, something that is not in my address book, and it will search and find my request on my phone (iphone) and that translation request will pop up on the screen (phone #) for me to dial). So the search actaully happened on my iPhone but the results was that Siri found the # and displayed it to dial ,, which also showed on the EVO / radio display unit. Just wondering if things like this are active?
 
#5 ·
Wow, this is great, thanks is for your hard work.
I would like to know which head unit you bought?
I have the 4.3" UVO on a LX+, so I have rear camera but not front, would it be difficult to ad a front camera?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
#6 ·
I installed the Pioneer AVN-4100NEX. It's for my wife and gives her several options she was missing in the stock head. Preset buttons that aren't buried in a menu, a bluetooth ringtone volume that isn't tied to the in-call volume (holy bleeding ears batman), etc.

The UVO stereo won't do dual inputs. You'd either have to upgrade to the bigger Kia radio (not feasible for the average bear) or get an aftermarket stereo with multiple camera inputs. The 4100 has that option, and it may be something I play with down the road. If I do, I doubt I'll use the Kia branded camera. Amazon has a ton of super-cheap options that with a little fabrication could work just as well if not better with an aftermarket stereo (standard voltages and outputs).
 
#7 ·
Thanks, that is what I meant in a aftermarket unit as I like the kia one just a little bit more than you.
I don't have any use for sat radio, but I like to keep the stock items bluetooth, steering wheel controls, USB, aux and rear camera and I think you did a great job of being able to do this. Especially the rear stock camera. You know how many people selling these decks made for Kia that I asked about using the stock camera and nobody knows how to do it? All of them ?
For some reason I have a hard time seeing the screen when the rear camera is on.


Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
did this a while back but without the details. usually the first thing I do when I get a new car is to upgrade the stereo. had a ruff time with the steering wheel controls because the aswc-1 was not available at the time but after calling them I was able to buy it, flash it and make it work.

Good to see upgrades in this forum

congrats
 
#12 ·
Great guide! Thanks very much! Could you provide a link to the ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Integration module that you purchased?

Also, does the module need to support specific brands/models of head unit, or so long as it supports the car, it'll work with the head unit (assuming the head unit supports steering wheel control)... I have a Kenwood DNX6960 that I pulled from my previous vehicle that I would love to install, but until your guide, I always assumed it would be too old...

Thanks again! You've given me inspiration to try my old Kenwood out!
 
#13 ·
Thank you so much for this guide! I have two questions though...does this then work through the built in mic in the car or did you need to run the supplied one that came with the H/U? Also Pioneers instructions say to only use the supplied USB extension for use with Car Play and Android Auto did you have any connectivity issues by tapping into the factory USB? Thanks again!
 
#14 ·
Im pretty sure you just plug the mic jack from the Sorento into the Pioneer and the USB should be easy to hook up to factory also. I have everything on order. I didnt want an Pioneer after researching the Android auto I decided just to get one of these Android decks instead. I also found some cheaper parts:
Step down converter for factory camera LM2596 Buck Step Down Power Converter DC 4 0 40 to 1 25 37V LED Voltmeter Good | eBay
Prying tools One Set Car Radio Door Clip Panel Trim Audio Removal Installer Open Pry Tool CA | eBay
Add a fuse 1x ATM apm Add A Circuit Fuse Tap Piggy Back Mini Blade Fuse Holder 15A | eBay
Diagnostic scanner OBD2 II ELM327 V2 1 Auto Mini Bluetooth Diagnostic Scanner Tool for Car Blue | eBay
trim kit Radio Stereo Mounting Installation Dash Kit Combo 2Din Wire Harness K44 | eBay
Deck I bought Universal Quad Core Android 5 1 Lollipop Stereo Car GPS Navi Mirror Link RDS BT | eBay
 
#15 ·
Very nice detailed write up. Thanks You!!! I'm going to to order the head unit and parts described here.
Have you looked at the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Factory Integration Adapter

I wanted to retain the back up sensors and add some of the vehicle diagnostic fractures or extra gauges I have a EX-T, so the turbo gauges would be nice to see boost and pressure.
 
#18 ·
First thanks for the very detail write up that finally clear out all the back up camera question in my head.
But one thing I just find out which is. I remember the connector plug between with AMP and No AMP is different.
I saw a lot AMP CAN BUS for sale on internet. So what happened if I skip the CANBUS? Will it anything gonna be not working?


Thanks a lot
 
#21 · (Edited)
>>The first one induces the biggest pucker factor as it requires you to cut what appears to be a very important support member out of the dashboard.

My only concern would be that this support member might well play a role in crash stiffness/mitigation in some way shape or form, and by removing it you may have compromised the integrity of the structure in the event of a crash.

Not being critical (as you obviously know what the ph*** your're doing), just something to consider. It was there for a reason i suspect as part of the overall design/structure.
 
#22 · (Edited)
@Spaceman_Spiff

Kia delivers a reverse signal right to the stereo, no need to go hunting/splicing. You also have your Aux and USB ports delivered right to the harness in plain wires, no convoluted media integration unit to interface with. And the most exciting finding? The camera. Sure, it requires an oddball 6.5v to run, but get this: the guide lines that move when you turn the steering wheel? They're built into the camera and will remain functional on your aftermarket head unit. And I'll show you how to supply the proper voltage for $8.99.
How did you figure this out? According to the service manual, Pin 19 is empty.

Text Line Font Parallel Design


The camera. Sure, it requires an oddball 6.5v to run, but get this: the guide lines that move when you turn the steering wheel? They're built into the camera and will remain functional on your aftermarket head unit. And I'll show you how to supply the proper voltage for $8.99..
Now when you turn on your stereo and activate reverse, you have a camera with bendy lines that follow your steering wheel/project your path of destruction. If you turn it on driving forward, you get to view your actual path of destruction.
Just for confirmation, you are saying that the camera actually bends the lines on its own when you turn the steering wheel? No relation whatsoever with the CANBUS module at head unit?

Do you have a video of the actual unit working?

Thanks
 
#23 ·
This thread saved me from removing the original rear view camera and use the generic cam that came with my new Android unit. (I went with Infidini as suggested in another post)

So, I just want to provide people with an alternative for the voltage regulator.
Found this on metraonline: http://www.metraonline.com/part/AX-CAM6V

I think it could be used in place of the variable Step-down regulator and provide with an easier mod.
 
#24 ·
This thread saved me from removing the original rear view camera and use the generic cam that came with my new Android unit. (I went with Infidini as suggested in another post)

So, I just want to provide people with an alternative for the voltage regulator.
Found this on metraonline:

I think it could be used in place of the variable Step-down regulator and provide with an easier mod.
Thanks for the information. I have a couple of questions for you since I'm doing the same thing right now..

First: Do the lines move on the camera when backing up? Second: Do you have any photos or tips on what you did to install the OEM camera with this unit? I'm a little confused on what is and isn't relevant in the main post to the Infidini unit. I am not experienced at this stuff by any means, so i'm looking for any tips.
 
#27 ·
@josuet
I tested pin 19 today. It appears to be +12V when on reverse . So yes to your question. But I won't use it. I'm trying the add-a-fuse thing. Unfortunately I ordered the one
showed in previous post, only to discover our Sorento use micro 2 fuse,not regular nor mini.

The Infidini unit retains everything but rear view camera and onboard microphone. I mean everything including the aux input and even the climate control display on the head unit.

Here is the wiring harness that comes with infidini
 

Attachments

#28 ·
@prnorm

Im not done yet. I have hard time finding the extra pin to add wires to the connector.
(I might end up ordering the metra harness to steal the pins).
But, so far I have the video signal wired. I used the Infidini wires going to the white connector (unused in my case. Canadian EX+) which happened to be ending in a yellow rca (yeah).

Im confident that everything will work in the end. It's just a pain to order small and inexpensive rare parts and pay insane shipping to Canada.

On a side note, the Infidini supports double camera input, so dash cam is already ordered.

Infidini support asked for details on the rewiring so they can adjust their own harness and fully support all Sorento features.
 
#30 ·
#31 ·
Shipping to Canada is too expensive for me. I'm very stubborn on how much shipping should cost for small inexpensive things.

And yes, very easy for Infidini to support both. They asked me for instructions on how to do it. They may very well modify their harness once they get the information. They claim that they don't know how to do it because they don't have the info for NA Sorento.

I must say I'm pretty much impressed by this HU and by their tech support. It's refreshing to finally see a Chinese company that is customer focused and helpful.
 
#32 ·
I must say I'm pretty much impressed by this HU and by their tech support. It's refreshing to finally see a Chinese company that is customer focused and helpful.
I've done lots of research on infinidi. I read nothing but good comments. Thing I notice is the screen seems to reflect too much light. Your pic looks almost like you are capturing a mirror....how's you experience while driving daytime? Is it hard to see the screen?
 
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