Well, it's been a few months/half a damn year since I said I was going to put this together, so its time.
First off, this was all done on a 2016 EX with the UVO tragedy they called a stereo. Other models will be similar looking at my wiring diagrams. I'll post up the manual pages for the other stereos in a follow-up post/I don't have them handy at the moment.
All the basic disclaimers stand. This is the internet, you'd be silly to just blindly follow anything, right? I've done a lot of stereos in a lot of vehicles, so I'm confident in my skills and procedures. If you aren't, then don't. Ask questions, proceed cautiously, you break it, you bought it, don't swim within one hour of eating.
Oh, and this will be broken up into several posts because I'm hitting all sorts of "too many words" and "too many images" errors...
Metra makes a very nice dash kit for the Sorento ( 95-7366B ) and I'm quite impressed how well it snaps into the factory console. When you clip them together, make sure you go around all edges of the adapter and make sure every clip is engaged. When done, it'll be rock-solid.
Because the stock stereo has that silly split face (CD slot high, screen low), the actual head unit sits very high in the dashboard. An aftermarket stereo, moved down to the lower portion of the console, requires a couple modifications to the vehicle. The first one induces the biggest pucker factor as it requires you to cut what appears to be a very important support member out of the dashboard. I absolutely hate doing modifications to vehicles that require changes you can't undo or parts you can't replace (and the dashboard falls into both categories). After realizing there was no way around this, I made the cut and was pleasantly surprised to find that there was zero impact to the stability of the dashboard. You'll be curious why it was even there to begin with.
The second modification also revolves around the odd placement of the original stereo. There is a metal bracket welded to the cross-member of the dash that the back of the stock head unit rests on. This bracket sits right about in the middle of the back of your new stereo and robs the otherwise cavernous install area of the depth needed to mount the new unit. This little bugger wasn't mentioned anywhere in the Metra instructions, so I did as any go-rilla would and simply bent the bracket out of the way (push up/back). If you ever need to go back to stock, just yank it back down.
Tips:
Buy a trim tool kit No, really. That center dash assembly is clipped in tighter than the tow hitch. The Metra installation video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahOVCBY-cT4) does a very good job of showing how the console comes apart, but they make it look comically easy to remove. Prepare to sweat a little, but rest assured, if you take your time and exercise care, you shouldn't damage anything.
Remove almost all of the white retention clips before reinstalling If you ever plan on going back into your dash for any reason (and even if you don't), save yourself the headache and potential for damaging very expensive parts. I pulled almost all of the white plastic clips off of the center console portion, leaving 4 in the corners to do the work. These 4 are more than substantial for the job, trust me. Subsequent jaunts into my dash still required more force than I felt comfortable exerting.
This stereo was one of the more interesting installations I've done in some time. Even though some headaches are to be expected with early models of a new generation, companies like Metra usually have their products dialed in from the get-go. The excellent fit of the dash kit made me think this was going to be just another cakewalk. As some of you have already learned, this is not the case. It turns out Kia moved to a partial CAN-BUS stereo this time around and Metra didn't get the memo. While this oversight required moving some pins and adding others, there's silver around them clouds. Kia delivers a reverse signal right to the stereo, no need to go hunting/splicing. You also have your Aux and USB ports delivered right to the harness in plain wires, no convoluted media integration unit to interface with. And the most exciting finding? The camera. Sure, it requires an oddball 6.5v to run, but get this: the guide lines that move when you turn the steering wheel? They're built into the camera and will remain functional on your aftermarket head unit. And I'll show you how to supply the proper voltage for $8.99.
Pins pins pins.
Let's start out with the harness. Metra 70-7304 is the basic plug and wires version of their harness offering for the truck. There's another unit pre-wired for the ASWC-1 steering wheel interface, but I bought that separately and wired it myself. Given that they didn't have the correct wiring in the first place (as you're about to learn), I have a feeling this was the simpler plan in the long run.
Here's what Metra thought you needed:
Let's start with what's actually there. The green/orange wire and black wires to the right are what are meant to go to the ASWC-1 steering wheel interface unit. Problem is, they're in blank positions on the 2016 Sorento. These two pins should be removed and set aside for later. The blue/pink wire is the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). NOTE: If you are installing a navigation stereo with navigation built-in, VSS is required to assist your GPS accuracy and should be left in-place/used accordingly. If you are using a stereo like mine that uses Android Auto as its GPS (in other words, it has no built-in GPS reciever), you can leave it in-place/unused or pull it out and reuse it elsewhere.
Now let's look at what's missing. Here's a picture of the harness hanging out of the Sorento's dash:
There's a lot more wires there, aren't there? We will be adding 8 new wires to the Metra harness to properly interface your new stereo:
Aux Right
Aux Left
Aux Ground
Camera Signal +
Camera Signal -
Camera Power + (6.5v)
Camera Power - (Ground) -Large Blade-Type Pin
Reverse Signal
But... how do I wire these up? Well, you could go buy a couple more harnesses from Metra to steal pins. The cheaper option is to go buy a bunch of these:
(http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/963716-2/?qs=Ykyshr6pipJNGw2zMx%2bfWw==)
I bought 15 because I had planned on buggering some up and wanted some extra for my on-hand stock. You can probably get by with 11 or 12 (do your own math, even I don't trust mine). Properly crimped with an official crimper (not the red/blue/yellow wire stripper/tab smasher you get at Home Depot), they'll fit right into the plug. Since most of us don't have this kind of crimper available, you'll need to do a test fit and shape the crimp tabs with a needle nose pliers. Solder the wire in and don't bother shrink wrapping anything, it won't fit. Once you press the wire into the back of the harness, flip to the business end and GENTLY pull each pin into place with a needle nose pliers (you may hear or feel a very slight click). Please note these pins are slightly shorter than the ones Metra has. This is not a problem, they will fully engage as long as you make sure they are seated properly in the harness.
First off, this was all done on a 2016 EX with the UVO tragedy they called a stereo. Other models will be similar looking at my wiring diagrams. I'll post up the manual pages for the other stereos in a follow-up post/I don't have them handy at the moment.
All the basic disclaimers stand. This is the internet, you'd be silly to just blindly follow anything, right? I've done a lot of stereos in a lot of vehicles, so I'm confident in my skills and procedures. If you aren't, then don't. Ask questions, proceed cautiously, you break it, you bought it, don't swim within one hour of eating.
Oh, and this will be broken up into several posts because I'm hitting all sorts of "too many words" and "too many images" errors...
The Physical
Metra makes a very nice dash kit for the Sorento ( 95-7366B ) and I'm quite impressed how well it snaps into the factory console. When you clip them together, make sure you go around all edges of the adapter and make sure every clip is engaged. When done, it'll be rock-solid.
Because the stock stereo has that silly split face (CD slot high, screen low), the actual head unit sits very high in the dashboard. An aftermarket stereo, moved down to the lower portion of the console, requires a couple modifications to the vehicle. The first one induces the biggest pucker factor as it requires you to cut what appears to be a very important support member out of the dashboard. I absolutely hate doing modifications to vehicles that require changes you can't undo or parts you can't replace (and the dashboard falls into both categories). After realizing there was no way around this, I made the cut and was pleasantly surprised to find that there was zero impact to the stability of the dashboard. You'll be curious why it was even there to begin with.
The second modification also revolves around the odd placement of the original stereo. There is a metal bracket welded to the cross-member of the dash that the back of the stock head unit rests on. This bracket sits right about in the middle of the back of your new stereo and robs the otherwise cavernous install area of the depth needed to mount the new unit. This little bugger wasn't mentioned anywhere in the Metra instructions, so I did as any go-rilla would and simply bent the bracket out of the way (push up/back). If you ever need to go back to stock, just yank it back down.
Tips:
Buy a trim tool kit No, really. That center dash assembly is clipped in tighter than the tow hitch. The Metra installation video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahOVCBY-cT4) does a very good job of showing how the console comes apart, but they make it look comically easy to remove. Prepare to sweat a little, but rest assured, if you take your time and exercise care, you shouldn't damage anything.
Remove almost all of the white retention clips before reinstalling If you ever plan on going back into your dash for any reason (and even if you don't), save yourself the headache and potential for damaging very expensive parts. I pulled almost all of the white plastic clips off of the center console portion, leaving 4 in the corners to do the work. These 4 are more than substantial for the job, trust me. Subsequent jaunts into my dash still required more force than I felt comfortable exerting.
The Electrical
This stereo was one of the more interesting installations I've done in some time. Even though some headaches are to be expected with early models of a new generation, companies like Metra usually have their products dialed in from the get-go. The excellent fit of the dash kit made me think this was going to be just another cakewalk. As some of you have already learned, this is not the case. It turns out Kia moved to a partial CAN-BUS stereo this time around and Metra didn't get the memo. While this oversight required moving some pins and adding others, there's silver around them clouds. Kia delivers a reverse signal right to the stereo, no need to go hunting/splicing. You also have your Aux and USB ports delivered right to the harness in plain wires, no convoluted media integration unit to interface with. And the most exciting finding? The camera. Sure, it requires an oddball 6.5v to run, but get this: the guide lines that move when you turn the steering wheel? They're built into the camera and will remain functional on your aftermarket head unit. And I'll show you how to supply the proper voltage for $8.99.
Pins pins pins.
Let's start out with the harness. Metra 70-7304 is the basic plug and wires version of their harness offering for the truck. There's another unit pre-wired for the ASWC-1 steering wheel interface, but I bought that separately and wired it myself. Given that they didn't have the correct wiring in the first place (as you're about to learn), I have a feeling this was the simpler plan in the long run.
Here's what Metra thought you needed:
Let's start with what's actually there. The green/orange wire and black wires to the right are what are meant to go to the ASWC-1 steering wheel interface unit. Problem is, they're in blank positions on the 2016 Sorento. These two pins should be removed and set aside for later. The blue/pink wire is the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). NOTE: If you are installing a navigation stereo with navigation built-in, VSS is required to assist your GPS accuracy and should be left in-place/used accordingly. If you are using a stereo like mine that uses Android Auto as its GPS (in other words, it has no built-in GPS reciever), you can leave it in-place/unused or pull it out and reuse it elsewhere.
Now let's look at what's missing. Here's a picture of the harness hanging out of the Sorento's dash:
There's a lot more wires there, aren't there? We will be adding 8 new wires to the Metra harness to properly interface your new stereo:
Aux Right
Aux Left
Aux Ground
Camera Signal +
Camera Signal -
Camera Power + (6.5v)
Camera Power - (Ground) -Large Blade-Type Pin
Reverse Signal
But... how do I wire these up? Well, you could go buy a couple more harnesses from Metra to steal pins. The cheaper option is to go buy a bunch of these:
(http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/963716-2/?qs=Ykyshr6pipJNGw2zMx%2bfWw==)
I bought 15 because I had planned on buggering some up and wanted some extra for my on-hand stock. You can probably get by with 11 or 12 (do your own math, even I don't trust mine). Properly crimped with an official crimper (not the red/blue/yellow wire stripper/tab smasher you get at Home Depot), they'll fit right into the plug. Since most of us don't have this kind of crimper available, you'll need to do a test fit and shape the crimp tabs with a needle nose pliers. Solder the wire in and don't bother shrink wrapping anything, it won't fit. Once you press the wire into the back of the harness, flip to the business end and GENTLY pull each pin into place with a needle nose pliers (you may hear or feel a very slight click). Please note these pins are slightly shorter than the ones Metra has. This is not a problem, they will fully engage as long as you make sure they are seated properly in the harness.