Front Wheel Stud replacement - Kia Forum
 2Likes
  • 2 Post By The Wizard
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Caledonia Ontario
Posts: 2
Drives: 2014 Sorento
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Thread Starter (Thread Starter)
Front Wheel Stud replacement

Hi folks,
2014 Kia Sorento - 4 cylinder

I had a front (front passenger side) wheel stud snap off while switching back to all season tires so I need to replace it.
I have the new stud and lug nut.

Question: Any tips on the best method to do this?
I have not got too far into the project yet, because I quickly realized I was going to need to go a little deeper than I had time for, to get room to place the new stud in/remove the old.

It looks like:
1) remove tire (kinda obvious step)
2) Remove brake caliper (2 bolts in back-hopefully not too bad to remove)
3) Remove Rotor (2 screws in front)

Not sure why I'm going to get into after this though and I prefer to have some tips before I waste time digging into it to find I've hit a wall.
Do I have to pull the hub? ?(Do I need a puller?) - Some models/you tube videos showed 4 bolts in behind that released the full hub assembly.
Dust/gravel shield removal?

Seen a couple people mention on other sites, cutting a hole/flap in the dust shield to get access from behind to make the room for any stud that needs to be hammered out/replaced.

Any thoughts appreciated.
All the best

Steve

Steve_T is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:17 PM
Expert
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 586
Drives: Black '15 SX, Beige '11 Soul!
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)

Ok. First.. don't remove anything (except the wheel!!! The tire won't really give you much better access..)

How far down is the stud broken?

In general, you're going to need to loosen the remains of the old stud, and get a firm grip on it to spin it out. That will involve a good lubricating fluid (Kroil is my choice but ATF is probably as good), heat (differential - any difference will help move the parts a little), and force - an easy-out needs something to bite into, a hole near-center will probably suffice.

Finally, and (in my opinion) MOST importantly, you need to use an impact driver when you get to the "force" part. I spent days trying to get a swingarm pivot shaft (motorcycle) to budge. One second with a pneumatic impact hammer and it slid right out. Since then, I've used my wimpy, cordless, Ryobi impact driver to break free nuts and bolts that I swore I would have to grind off.
eflyguy is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:46 PM
Full Member
 
mechanizeddeath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: MI
Posts: 93
Drives: 2016 Forte5
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)

Another recommendation for an impact driver. They are much more than "just a drill" and help immensely when working on any project. If you've never used one, it uses concussive force to knock fasteners loose or drive them in. It's a lot easier on your arms and hands, and using short impacts instead of the constant force of a drill will help prevent the bit or socket from slipping and stripping the head. Air powered ones are great if you have a compressor handy, but cordless impact drivers are more than enough for most home/garage projects.
mechanizeddeath is offline  
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:24 AM
Senior Member
 
The Wizard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 260
Drives: '15 Sorento EX
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)

Am I missing something? Replacing a broken wheel stud generally involves pulling the hub, pressing or driving the broken stud out, then pressing a new one in place. They don't thread in so an impact wrench is of little value for this job.

Steps (from Kia service manual):
1 - remove wheel
2 - remove brake caliper bolts then hang caliper with wire to prevent brake hose damage
3 - remove coking nut from hub and discard
4 - remove rotor from the knuckle assembly
5 - remove hub assembly bolts from knuckle and remove hub assembly and dust cover
6 - remove dust cover from hub assembly
7 - press out broken wheel stud
8 - press in replacement wheel stud (part number 527552E000) with hydraulic press
9 - reassemble reverse of removal
- install a new coking nut, torque to 210 lb-ft (so bring a big wrench), and use a chisel to stake the coking nut to the slot in the spindle so that it won't loosen

If you don't have access to a press, you may be able to get a shop to do it for you fairly cheaply or you might get it in with a vice. Or you can replace the hub assembly for under $100.
Wahoobie and Steve_T like this.
The Wizard is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:52 AM
Expert
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 586
Drives: Black '15 SX, Beige '11 Soul!
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)

Ugh.. ty.. the studs I've dealt with were threaded in, but they were *not* wheel studs! Sorry.. I'll go sit back in the corner...
eflyguy is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:10 PM
Senior Member
 
The Wizard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 260
Drives: '15 Sorento EX
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)

I've been called both a stud (a long time ago) and twisted (much more recently).
The Wizard is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Caledonia Ontario
Posts: 2
Drives: 2014 Sorento
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Thread Starter (Thread Starter)
Thanks all.

Yes, thank you for pointing out the difference between the tire and the wheel :-).

Had a quick look the other day. The rotor is gonna be a bit of a pain to get off but I'll get it.
The studs are press in style, and I moved the broken one slightly to just make sure I could move it. Not an issue. Didn't want it to go too far and find it causing an issue in behind and not be able to get it out without fully committing to the repair.

Good to know about the coking nut. I'm sure I would have just reused the same one.

Do I actually need a press? A hammer and block (home made press lol) won't get it in far enough?

I'll give a go soon and let you know what I end up destroying.
PS, anyone know the point of the 2 screws they put in the front of the rotor? I would have thought the wheel studs (and eventually rust) would hold everything in place good enough.

Thanks all,
Steve_T is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 07:35 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Glastonbury,CT
Posts: 14
Drives: Mine: '05 HD Fatboy, Wife drives a '15 Sorento EX
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)

Mr Wayne is offline  
Reply

  Kia Forum > KIA Models > Kia Sorento Forum > 2014 - 2015 Sorento Forum



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On