Kia Forum banner

what is oil type sorento use ?

240K views 146 replies 22 participants last post by  JoseCaKIA 
#1 ·
what is oil type sorento use ?

Is it safe to use synthetic on new sorento ?
 
#2 ·
lol.. i guess you are a first time brand new owner eh? anyway you can run what the dealer has (synthetic blend) until 24000km then shift to full synthetic after..
of course its safe to run synthetic.. as long as it is the reccomended oil weight 5w-20 or 5w-30 if 5w-20 is not available
right now i am running kendall gt-1 full synthetic with liquid titanium previously castrol..
 
#3 · (Edited)
There's surprising latitude with oil specification in most cars. I won't suggest anything specific for you car, but our Mazda 6 is OK with anything from 5W-20 to 15W-40, with very little dependence on ambient temperature, according to the handbook.

Original recommendation from the dealer was 15W-40 conventional (we live in a hot climate), but now I use 5W-30 synthetic, mainly because that's what I use in the other cars. There's a recent tendency to move to lower-viscosity oils, in line with fuel economy recommendations. I haven't noticed any change in performance or economy, but it seems like a good idea. I tend towards longer oil-change intervals with synthetic oil.

See your handbook. No problem using synthetic according to my information, but most like to run the car with the original type of oil for at least the first year. There is often a question about the quality of oils supplied by the dealer; you could check on this and supply your own if not satisfied.
 
#4 · (Edited)
My manual says the minimum spec is IlSAC GF4, API SM. the weight should be according to the temp range where you will be driving. For my area 5w-30 is spot on. The oil cap from the factory in West Point GA also says 5w-30. So read the manual and look to see what oil weight is listed on the oil filler cap in your vehicle.

The good news is even better oils are available. You can easily find oil that is ILSAC GF5, API SN Resource Conserving, GM dexos 1 compliant. I use Mobil 1 5w-30 which is compliant to the latest specs and can be purchased for cheap at Walmart.

The only vehicle I know that said no synthetics was the Mazda RX sport cars with special seals in the rotary engines.
 
#8 · (Edited)
in the index under O for Oil (engine) it states pages 7-31 which then refers you to page 8/6 under "Recommended Lubricants and Capacities" for details.

They do make these manual's complicated don't they :D You can download a copy in pdf format from Kia Canada and then use the search to find what you need.

The grade is also stamped on the oil fill cap (at least it is on my Soul)
 
#9 · (Edited)
Why Synthetic Oil ?

With very few exceptions, Synthetic Oil can safely be used in ALL new cars (and in most older cars) regardless of make or model.

Synthetic oil is superior to conventional oil and significantly outperforms it on all counts. Synthetics deliver superior protection and performance in temperature extremes (hot or cold), keep your engine cleaner by significantly reducing the formation of sludge and varnish, resist oxidation and acid formation, and provide unsurpassed friction reduction and wear protection for extended drain intervals.

Also, many vehicles today leave the factory with synthetic oil installed as the "initial fill".

I personally use 100% Full Synthetic Oil all in my vehicles, new and old.





Check out the following LINKS to find out more about synthetic oil:

Select Synthetics - Why Synthetics?

Mobil Canada | Car Engine Oils | Products | The Benefits of Synthetics

As already stated, many vehicles today leave the factory with synthetic oil as the initial fill:

Synthetic Oil | Cars Filled with Mobil 1

I believe the Sorento is one of those vehicles (at least in participating countries anyways). The owner’s manual does mention TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 ENERGY HKS G-310, which is a synthetic oil. "Kiatechinfo.com" also recommends other synthetic oils.

KIA MOTORS CORPORATION recommends TOTAL

One of the myths surrounding synthetic oil is that new engines still require an initial break-in period with conventional oil before you can switch to synthetic. However, with most modern engines today, this is simply no longer the case. Today’s engines are built to much higher/tighter manufacturing tolerances (due to more accurate and precise machining and assembly) than the ones in older vehicles, eliminating the need for a long break-in period with conventional oil.

In the Sorento’s owner’s manual (p.1-5) it states: No special break-in period is needed. By following a few simple precautions for the first 1,000 km (600 miles) you may add to the performance, economy and life of your vehicle.” Now that said, I still believe that it is very important that you closely follow the ‘precautions’ outlined in the manual for proper engine break-in; however, even if synthetic oil wasn’t the ‘initial factory fill’, you do not need to wait before switching over.


Now as to the question of how frequently you should change your oil, the quick answer is 'it depends'. The subject of oil change intervals is a hotly debated topic that even the so called ‘experts’ can’t seem to agree on. The truth is: there is no magical one-size-fits-all number.

Oil change intervals depend on a number of different factors such as:

The ‘type’ of oil used: Synthetic oil allows for significantly longer drain intervals then conventional oil – especially high quality 'extended drain' 100% Synthetic Oils.

Driving conditions (normal or severe): For instance, frequent city driving or repeated short distances driving; driving in very cold, very hot, dusty, or sandy environments; towing a trailer; etc, will require more frequent oil changes. (Check your owner’s manual for more on severe driving conditions.)

The make, model, year, and 'engine type' of your car: Because of technological advances in modern engine materials, design and built recommended oil change intervals for new vehicles have become considerably longer.

However, if your car has a Turbo and/or Gasoline Direct-injection engine for instance, you will need to change the oil more frequently.

Another factor that will impact the length of your Oil Drain Intervals is the size/capacity of the vehicle's oil sump. A smaller sump (say less than 5 liters) will require more frequent drain intervals as the oil will become over-saturated with contaminants sooner than it would with a larger sump.

The bottom line is, the recommended oil change interval will be different for different people and different cars.

One thing that is certain however, is that the 3,000 mi/5,000 km oil change interval recommendation is a thing of the past.

The 3000 Mile Myth / Frequently Asked Questions / What People Are Saying

Personally, I change the oil in my vehicles twice a year using high quality 100% Synthetic Oil.

[See also THIS POST]

Now as to the question of what brand of oil you should choose... Different people have their own personal favorite brand of oil they prefer and it’s very easy to get into a heated argument as to which one is the ‘superior’ product. Any high quality ‘name brand’ oil will do just fine provided it meets or exceeds the minimum required specs outlined in your owner’s manual.

See also: When should I do my first Oil Change

That brings us to the question of the oil SAE viscosity grade.

All vehicle manufacturers today recommend the use of 'multi-grade' oil. My Sorento Owner’s Manual states: “For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-30 API SM/ILSAC GF-4. However, if the engine oil is not available in your country, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart.” The 'viscosity chart' lists two other recommended oil grades (5W-20 and 5W-40).

Now because these are the grades of oil Kia recommends, does this mean that they are the only grades that can be used in this engine? Well, not exactly. First, let’s look at what these numbers actually mean...

The viscosity of a fluid describes its resistance to flow – the thicker the oil, the higher its viscosity. The first number (5W) is the 'cold' viscosity rating of the oil, the ‘W’ stands for winter, and the last number (30) is the 'hot' viscosity rating. Therefore, when the oil is cold it has a rating of 5W. When the oil is circulating in a hot engine, it has a rating of 30. What this means is that a 0W-30, a 5W-30, and a 10W-30 grade oil will all have essentially the same ‘thickness’ when circulating in a hot engine but will have a different ‘thickness’ when cold.

Note: The viscosity grade numbers (i.e. the 5W and the 30) are simply a rating representing the viscosity range of the oil. They are NOT the actual viscosity of the oil. The viscosity of an oil is temperature dependent. In other words, a particular grade of oil will have a different viscosity/thickness at different temperatures.

Therefore, the question as to which oil viscosity grade can be used in your car’s engine will depend on a number of different factors, such as, the type of climate you will be driving in. If you live in a very hot climate (i.e. Australia) you could use an oil of a slightly higher viscosity grade (10W-40 for instance), and if you live in a much colder climate (i.e. Canada) you could use an oil of a slightly lower viscosity grade (0W-20 for instance). However, the recommended viscosity grades should do just fine in all climates.

See Also: What is Oil Viscosity?

I am currently using 0W-30 (in the Summer) and 0W-20 (for the winter months - it does get pretty cold up here in Northern-Ontario) in my Sorento. Not only do 0W-xx grade oils remain more 'fluid' in colder temperatures but they also have a lower 'Cold Cranking Viscosity' and 'Cold Pumping Viscosity', helping minimize engine start-up wear. Plus, they will also reach the proper 'hot' viscosity faster, further minimizing wear.

Again, ANY 'high quality' name brand synthetic oil will do just fine provided it meets or exceeds the minimum required specs outlined in your owner’s manual. That said, the brand I personally use in my own vehicles is AMSOIL's Signature Series [AMSOIL Products]

(See also this Head-to-head Study)

Richard

 
#11 ·
One thing that has contributed to the perception that switching from conventional oil to synthetic can cause problems is actually part of the better performance of synthetic oil. Some people have experienced leaks that start after switching their older car to synthetic. That's because some of the seals were gummed up with sludge from dino oil which the synthetic oil cleaned up causing the seal to leak. The seal was already bad but the old oil disguised the problem so synthetic oil got blamed for the leak when all it did was reveal an existing problem. If the same older car had been running synthetic all along, it probably wouldn't have had the problem in the first place.
 
#12 ·
after reading this thread, it sure sounds like a good option would be Mobil One Full Synthetic. Looks like a ton of R&D went into that oil. The only thing I'm not sure of is if Kia approves of that usage for 5W-30. I assume they would if we use Kia oil filters. The only problem is, we have the below to choose from so it muddy's up the waters when trying to make a decision. I wouldn't trust any full synthetic to last for 12,000 (19,312km) to 15,000 (24,140km) miles so I'm thinking i should just choose the cheaper Mobil One Full Synthetic and change my oil at regular intervals. What do you all think? I will be reading up on my owner's manual to strictly follow it as well.

Mobil One Offerings:
Annual Protection
Extended Protection
Super
Full
 
#14 · (Edited)
@bad_turbulence

I used to use Mobil 1 (Extended Protection) in all my vehicles.

I currently use (and prefer) AMSOIL Signature Series.

[see more AMSOIL Products]

As to your comment about using the "cheaper" synthetic oil because you change your oil more often, choosing a superior full synthetic oil is not just about it lasting longer, it's also about it providing better wear protection as well as its: shear stability, viscosity index, volatility, pour point, flash point, deposit control, etc.) Sometimes you do get what you pay for.

In the Sorento, I use 0W-20 oil in the winter and 0W-30 oil in the summer (although I could use either grade year-round).

Note: I live in Northern-Ontario, Canada.

Just wanted to add that I use the OEM KIA Oil Filters.

Hope this helps.

:)
 
#13 ·
I plan on using Royal Purple 5w-30 for my first oil change after buying the car at 60k miles on it. I assume the previous owner(s) used conventional oil.

My 2010 Kia Soul I bought new only saw Royal Purple 5w-20 in it and never had one issue with lubrication for 130k miles. I was doing 7500 mile oil changes to keep the warranty but after it hit 100k, I was extending it to 10k, sometimes 12k miles between changes. The oil coming out looked just as good as the oil going in.
 
#24 ·
You can rest assure that using synthetic oil is the best thing you can use on your vehicle. I've been using synthetic oil before it was available to the public and since then I have never used anything else. Back in 1991, I bought a brand new 1992 Ford F 150 and I put 485,000 miles on it when I sold it. I never had to do any interior work on the engine. Used to change the oil once a year, that was it. Used to be my daily driver and used to put 120 miles a day, to go back and forth from work.

Now that I have my new Sorrento, after my free oil change that I am going to get from the dealer for the nest three years, I will definitely will go to synthetic.
 
#16 · (Edited)
here read this page. Will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about oil...that and your owner's manual...
Although it is a very informative site with some good "general" info on motor oil - it's obvious that the author is knowledgeable on the subject - I believe you should take his results/numbers with a "grain of salt".

I also should say that the author of that blog is very "condescending" towards others and totally "full of himself" - like he's the only one who knows what he is talking about and everyone else is simply clueless.

For instance, here are some direct quotes from his blog:

"...it is very common for car guys on Forums to have no idea what they are talking about when it comes to motor oil... never believe anything people say about motor oil on Forums... My advice is, ignore any critics of my Blog, because they have always been wrong, and cannot be trusted... This Blog will provide you with the best, most complete, FACTUAL motor oil test data you will ever find anywhere..."

Really???...

Furthermore, the only test he performs on the oil is an "Extreme Pressure Test" using the "ASTM D-2782" test method - used primarily for evaluating the load carrying capacity of extreme pressure lubricants on a "Timken Extreme Pressure Test Rig" such as this one: Falex Timken Test Machine.

This test is similar to the "Four Ball Wear Test" [See below].



Note: He does claim in his blog that his testing equipment and procedure are "proprietary", however, he did reveal some information about them in the past:
So, I bought an oil “load carrying capacity/film strength” tester... The tester used here, was never intended to reflect exactly what goes on inside a running engine. It was designed to test “oil against oil”, nothing else... I really only did this testing for my own knowledge, and to share it with a handful of car buddies...

My tester spins a test ring bathed in oil at 456 rpm (7.6 rev/sec), and a test specimen is “gently” brought down into contact with the spinning ring. A load is then “gently” applied to the test specimen and is “gradually” increased, so as not to suddenly punch through the oil film...

The test specimens are a small solid cylinder shape. And of course a new surface was provided for each test. As for the test "ring", its surface was re-prepped with sand paper between each test, so that a fresh surface was used each time...

At the conclusion of each 30 second test, the wear scar that is generated is carefully measured with the aid of a magnifying glass to maximize accuracy. Then the psi that the oil supported, is calculated, which gives the value of its “load carrying capacity/film strength”...

The ASTM D 2782 calls for testing the oil at 100*F, yes 100*F, NOT 100*C. Testing at that temperature is completely worthless in my mind [he's apparently much smarter than those ASTM "idiots"/industry experts]... That being the case, I did not precisely follow what I consider the useless ASTM D 2782 standard...

The test procedure I used was developed and refined to obtain the best possible repeatability, which ensures the most accurate test results possible... All oils were tested at 230* F (representative of actual running temperature)... Once I made the final revision to optimize the procedure, testing began...

The test equipment used here to perform this kind of testing, focuses on an oil’s “load carrying capacity or film strength” [actually, it is primarily designed for evaluating the load carrying capacity of extreme pressure lubricants]... This is a dynamic friction test under load, and the test results are determined by the size of the wear scar.

The psi (pounds per square inch) value is determined by the testing “load” being applied over the “area” of the wear scar that is created on the test specimen, as the test is being performed. So, you end up with “pounds” of force being applied over the wear scar area in “square inches”...

My test equipment is NOT intended to duplicate an engine’s internal components... motor oil testing in a running engine, is a waste of time, effort and money, when it comes to gathering accurate data for comparison between various oils... Since my oil testing compares various oils under worst case conditions, absolutely no further testing is required in a running engine...

ALL oils when in “incompressible liquid form”, provide the SAME level of wear protection. And it does not matter if they cost one dollar per quart, or twenty dollars per quart.
Suffice it to say, I see a number of issues with this. :rolleyes:



For more on the ASTM tests, see:

ASTM Oil Evaluation Tests: Measures That Matter

The number 1 site I recommend for all of your oil questions is:

Bob Is The Oil Guy | The Internet's Number One Motor Oil Site

For general questions about motor oil, read these articles:

Oil Basics: What is Motor Oil?

;)
 
#17 · (Edited)
ya i don't disagree. He is ...ah....very confident of his findings I would say. however, it's difficult to dispute his information. And I haven't seen anything on the net approaching the thoroughness of his testing. He strikes me as very unbiased.

i would add further, sometimes you get the impression that he knows what he has seen, has the data, and also KNOWs that very few if anyone on a car forum has done anything remotely close to what he has accomplished and i suspect he is just fed up with the nay sayers that don't really know what they are talking about.
 
#19 · (Edited)
...I haven't seen anything on the net approaching the thoroughness of his testing.

He strikes me as very unbiased...

I'll admit that he does appear to have a certain degree of experience. And again, he does provide some valuable, albeit questionable, information on his website.

However, I would not consider his results and opinions "unbiased". They are totally biased.

He performs all his tests himself on his own allegedly "proprietary" testing equipment using "proprietary" testing procedures. In order for the results to be completely unbiased the test would have to be confirmed by an independent 3rd-party lab and his results would have to be peer reviewed.

This is what he says in his blog:

"[No one] knows exactly what my test equipment and test procedure are. Because they are proprietary information, since I invested a lot of time, money and effort into developing them. So, I will not be sharing them with the whole world.

The truth is, my Engineering test procedure is very consistent and very repeatable, within a very narrow +/- range, or I would not be using it. That is why it is proprietary. I am the only one who has developed this specific equipment and this specific test procedure that “IS” very consistent and very repeatable..."


Now I am not necessarily suggesting that his testing procedures or results are "wrong" or inaccurate, or that they don't provide valuable info. Nor am I trying to suggest that he has some kind of "agenda" (although he might). I am just saying that they are indeed "biased" and should be viewed as such.

You can't simply rely on the fact that he seems very honest and sounds very sincere. Or the fact that he is knowledgeable, experienced, and educated (which I admit he seems to be), because in the end, we only have his word to go by.

Nor should the fact that his Blog now has over 300,000 "views" worldwide (which he apparently likes to remind people of) have any bearing on the validity of his tests and testing procedures or the accuracy of his results (or on his honesty and credibility).

(By the way, this thread now has over 150,000 views! So it must contain a lot of very valuable info! :D)

Just sayin'

;)
 
#20 · (Edited)
Yes, I understand what you're saying. And perhaps in that sense, you could say he's "unbiased".

I'm just saying that he should reveal his testing equipment and procedures. And that his results should be confirmed by a third-party lab and peer reviewed.

What does he have to "hide"? Because of his refusal to share this information with us, there is really no way for anyone to confirm the validity of his testing procedures or his results, we only have "his word" (for what that's worth) to go by.

For any tests to be considered "scientific", they need to be repeatable and verifiable by other parties. You should never except the results from only 1 source but have the ability to compare them (and confirm them) to other sources.

Again, I'm not saying that there is anything "wrong" with his numbers, just that you should take them "with a grain of salt".


Richard
 
#21 · (Edited)
Now I don't want to "derail" this thread any further by pursuing this back-and-forth conversation about this guy's "blog" so I'll just make this one final comment about it.

I have known about RAT's (Rick Jackson) Blog for some time. His "540 RAT" handle comes from his "540 Big Block Chevy 'Rat' Street Hot Rod Engine".

As I said above, I don't deny that it does contain some good "general" info about motor oil. What I do question however, is the validity of his "results" and how he actually arrived at those results (equipment and testing procedures used) as well as the actual real-world applicability and relevance of the tests performed.

He doesn't perform any of his tests in an actual car engine, he doesn't tell us anything about his testing equipment (it's proprietary), he doesn't reveal his testing methodology (it's a secret), there is no error analysis done, he doesn't tell us how many trials he conducted, etc... he just expects us to accept his "numbers" simply out of 'blind faith'. "Trust me, I'm an Engineer!"

Additionally, his "proprietary test" is NOT an industry accepted test and has NOT been peer reviewed or validated by any certification body (i.e. ASTM, API, ACC) - not to mention that "bench tests" are not the most reliable indicators of actual field performance. But that doesn't stop him from making this claim regarding his covert test: "There is no additional value to performing more comprehensive oil testing related to wear prevention..."

Here are a few comments from "industry experts" about RAT's "test":
The ASTM tests and OEM engine tests that are used in creating specifications (for example) Dexos1 are REAL tests. And they are much more complex, are better focused on real world problems, and have better reproducibility and repeatability than RAT's "squeaky wheel" rig. I know, because I've used those "film strength" test machines myself and I have also stood over engine tests as they are being performed...

To completely dismiss a multi-billion dollar industry and declare it trumped by a guy with one heavily debunked test is insulting to those of us who spend our lives in the industry and a very stupid way to make decisions about your investment of a vehicle... I don't agree with using the "RAT ranking"...

OEMs are generally more interested in fired engine tests than bench test results. Bench tests are good qualifiers when first investigating new chemistry, but in engine oils nothing beats running the oil in an actual engine, tearing it down and looking at the results.

During these tests the engines are also rigged up to a maze of sensors which identify loads, operating temperatures, internal pressures, cycling of the engine and periodic oil analysis... All this data combined together can be used to determine a pass or fail.
And here's another one:
I would like to begin by stating unequivocally that the test utilized for comparison of the different motor oils is NOT an industry accepted test and has not been peer reviewed or validated by any certification body such as American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), American Petroleum Institute (API) or the American Chemistry Council (ACC). Therefore, I do not consider the test data valid. I should note that non-ASTM associated bench tests are not the most reliable indicators of field performance.

Additionally, I think the primary concern I had with the information is that one cannot effectively measure “load carrying capacity/film strength” in a 30 second test that is NOT considered a standard industry test with the rigorous inter-laboratory round robin studies needed to generate the measurement system precision statements. The gold standard to evaluate the different lubricants would be controlled engine testing... It is my opinion that a 30-second test is not a proper performance test of the load-carrying capacity of a lubricant in boundary lubrication regimes.
And here's one from a Certified Lubrication Specialist:
I appreciate this guys desire to tell the truth, but his test method is completely wrong. Motor oils are formulated to run in actual motors. Not on bearing testers.
And here's another one:
The testing done here is only one part of a product evaluation. This is really the problem here, 540 thinks that a pass in the beginning testing format is the end to all, it is not.

We have seen oils look great in a bench test and totally fail in the real world in a running engine... even with some oils that have good shear qualities have an 'etching problem' that only shows up after miles of use that would never show up in 540 Rat's test... 540 Rat's testing is a long ways from being complete or useful in making any determination what or who's oil may be better in use...

oh ya, I [Manuel Azevedo] worked for Oronite Additives in the engine lab for over twenty years, so I have seen a lot. By the way, Oronite is Chevron Corp's additive company and sells worldwide to many other oil companies...

Sorry 540, but your testing has nothing to do with an engine!!! An engine produces all kinds of different acids and particulate matter. So how an oil/additive package holds up and reacts to these contaminates is going to be different, in a lot of cases, than what your so called "holy grail of oil testing" rig indicates.

You are only doing the first stages of an oil test. What you are doing is what is done to qualify an oil to move on to more real-world testing, but you seem to think a bench test is all there is in any kind of test, just shows you haven't got a clue how any of your tested oils will work in an engine for the duration of an oil change interval... Your testing means nothing to an engine and an engine is what the oil is designed for, so what good exactly is this testing for an engine oil if your testing has nothing to do with an engine???

Oh well for as long as you have been trying to show you know more than anyone else in the business than anything said here is beyond your ability to understand what is going on.

I suggest you read these two recent articles on "xtremerevolution.net":

Exposting The Flaws In 540 RAT's Engineering Test Data Blog

...and his follow-up article:

Exposing The Flaws In 540 RAT's Rebuttal

Here is a link to a post about his original test on Mar 19, 2012:

TheSamba.com forum, second post on the page by "Quokka42"

Here are two more threads from 2012/13 (both started by 540 RAT):

Lars and 540 RAT’s Oil Testing (speedtalk.com)

Motor Oil "Wear Test" and "Lab Test" Data (corvetteforum.com)

For further discussion and information, I suggest you check-out these threads on the "BITOG Forums":

From Sep 2015: 540 Rat oil tests

From Feb 2017: 540 Rat Blog - QSUD better than Mobil 1

From Dec 2017: 540RAT Blog

'nuff said!

 
#27 · (Edited)
The American Automobile Association (AAA) is one of the most recent company to promote the benefits of using synthetics. The popular club recently conducted in-depth testing to determine if it’s worth paying more for synthetic oil over conventional oil.

"Oil protects critical engine components from damage and AAA found that synthetic engine oils performed an average of 47 percent better than conventional oils in a variety of industry-standard tests," said John Nielsen, AAA’s managing director of Automotive Engineering and Repair.

"With its superior resistance to deterioration, AAA’s findings indicate that synthetic oil is particularly beneficial to newer vehicles with turbo-charged engines and for vehicles that frequently drive in stop-and-go traffic, tow heavy loads or operate in extreme hot or cold conditions."

AAA’s research included eight industry-standard ASTM tests focusing on 'shear stability', 'deposit formation', 'volatility', 'cold-temperature pumpability', 'oxidation resistance' and 'oxidation-induced rheological changes'. Each test was performed on five synthetic and five conventional oils.

The results were published in May 2017:

AAA Engine Oil ResearchReport (PDF)


Pretender
 
#31 ·
The American Automobile Association (AAA) is one of the most recent company to promote the benefits of using synthetics. The popular club recently conducted in-depth testing to determine if it’s worth paying more for synthetic oil over conventional oil.

"Oil protects critical engine components from damage and AAA found that synthetic engine oils performed an average of 47 percent better than conventional oils in a variety of industry-standard tests," said John Nielsen, AAA’s managing director of Automotive Engineering and Repair.

"With its superior resistance to deterioration, AAA’s findings indicate that synthetic oil is particularly beneficial to newer vehicles with turbo-charged engines and for vehicles that frequently drive in stop-and-go traffic, tow heavy loads or operate in extreme hot or cold conditions."

AAA’s research included eight industry-standard ASTM tests focusing on 'shear stability', 'deposit formation', 'volatility', 'cold-temperature pumpability', 'oxidation resistance' and 'oxidation-induced rheological changes'. Each test was performed on five synthetic and five conventional oils.

The results were published in May 2017:

AAA Engine Oil ResearchReport (PDF)


Pretender
That AAA PDF is very detailed and telling. I am going to officially base-line my car just in case the dealership didn't use synthtic when they changed it last...they have a sticker on the window but it only says 5W-30 and nothing about oil type. Thanks for all of this great information!
 
#28 ·
Most discussions about oil are based on religion.
Oil is oil. Just read the car book and apply with reason instead..
 
#30 · (Edited)
KIA recommends Synthetic Motor Oil

The reasons I strongly recommend using Synthetic Oil in KIA vehicles (especially GDI and GDI-Turbo models) are:

1- KIA themselves (corporate) recommends synthetic oil - the Owner’s Manual mentions Total Quartz and KIA specifies QUARTZ 9000 ENERGY HKS G-310 which is a Full Synthetic motor oil (API SM - ACEA A5) [About API & ACEA]. Additionally, "kiatechinfo.com" also recommends other synthetic oil brands.

However, I should probably point out that this oil does NOT meet the latest North-American API SN standard (it is only API SM certified).

Note: The reason that KIA MOTORS recommends TOTAL oils is because they have a partnership/contract with them (since 2011) - it's NOT because TOTAL oil is necessarily the best oil for KIA engines (or the only oil that can/should be used in them). Car manufacturers form partnerships with different oil companies all the time; this is a common practice.

KIA MOTORS CORPORATION recommends TOTAL



2- It also appears that KIA vehicles leaves the factory with synthetic oil as the initial fill (at least in "participating" countries) "This lubricant is used by Hyundai- Kia Motors Corporation for First Fill." [view PDF].

3- GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection) engines are much harder on oil than regular fuel injection engines. And if you have the Turbo model (T-GDI), then it's even more critical to use a high quality synthetic motor oil.

4- Full Synthetic oil is superior to Conventional oil. It delivers superior protection and performance in temperature extremes (hot or cold); keeps your engine cleaner by significantly reducing the formation of sludge and varnish; resists oxidation and acid formation; and provides unsurpassed friction reduction and wear protection for extended drain intervals. [See: Why Synthetics?]

This is a proven FACT that has been demonstrated by countless independent "unbiased" tests over the years. Many of those tests involved actual car engines in real-world testing over countless miles in various conditions.

For instance, check the two field studies below:

Las Vegas Taxi Cab Field Study

Diesel Fleet Fuel Economy Study


Richard
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jacob King
#35 · (Edited)
Conventional vs. Synthetic vs. Synthetic Blend

Engine Lubricants create a lubricating film between surfaces of adjacent moving parts minimizing direct contact between them, decreasing heat caused by friction and reducing wear, thus protecting the engine. Coating metal surfaces with oil also keeps them from being exposed to oxygen, inhibiting oxidation at elevated operating temperatures and preventing rust or corrosion.

Motor oil also serves as a cooling agent. In some engines oil is sprayed through a nozzle inside the crankcase onto the piston to provide cooling of specific parts that undergo high temperature strain. In use, the oil transfers heat through convection as it flows through the engine, by means of air flow over the surface of the oil pan, an oil cooler, and through the buildup of oil gases evacuated by the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system.

It is generally accepted that synthetics outperform conventional oils, but many people don’t understand why. The differences begin at a molecular level.

Motor oil is made up of two basic components: Base stock and Additives.

A Base Stock can be either a mineral (petroleum-based) hydrocarbon or a synthesized (engineered) chemical compound. The base stock comprises the bulk of the oil’s volume (70 to 80 percent). The base stock lubricates internal moving parts, removes heat and seals piston rings.

Motor oil base stocks can be made from either:

A. Petroleum/Crude Oil (Conventional Lubricants)

B. Chemically Synthesized Materials (Synthetic Lubricants) or

C. A Combination of Both (Synthetic Blends)


A. Conventional Lubricants

Conventional lubricants – the oils most people are familiar with – are refined from crude oil that has been pumped from the ground.

The problem with crude oil is that it contains hundreds of different types of hydrocarbon molecules all mixed together. You have to separate the different types of hydrocarbons to have anything useful.

The oil refining process separates the various types of molecules in the oil by weight, leaving molecules similar in weight but dissimilar in structure. Since the refining process cannot distinguish such molecules, the result is a lubricant with a wide assortment of molecules of different shapes and sizes.

Because the assorted molecules of refined lubricants are of different shapes and sizes, the lubricant surfaces are irregular at the molecular level. As lubricant layers flow across one another during the lubrication process, these irregularities create friction within the fluid itself, which consumes power, reduces efficiency and increases heat and wear.

Some of the substances in crude oil are detrimental to lubrication. Paraffin (wax), for example, is a common conventional oil contaminant that causes motor oil to thicken in cold temperatures. Sulfur is a naturally occurring inorganic element that readily reacts with oxygen molecules and is detrimental to oil performance.

Contaminating elements are inherent to crude oil and cannot be completely removed through the refining process and invite the formation of sludge and other products of lubricant breakdown.


B. Synthetic Lubricants

Synthetic Lubricants, on the other hand, are chemically engineered (synthesized) from pure chemicals rather than refined from crude oil.

Synthetic lubricants contain no contaminants or molecules that don't serve a designed purpose. Their components are chemically reacted to produce finished products with pre-designed performance characteristics. That gives them significant advantages over refined oils.

Feed-stocks from which synthetic lubricants are made do not contain sulfur, paraffin, nitrogen or other elements that invite the formation of sludge and other products of lubricant breakdown. Synthetic lubricants can be used in higher temperatures than refined lubricants without breaking down. Their resistance to breakdown also allows them to be used for longer periods than refined lubricants. Lubricated systems stay cleaner and last longer.

Synthetic Oil is chemically engineered for a certain molecular composition with a tailored and uniform structure. Their smooth, uniform lubricating molecules slip easily across one another, and because of their molecular uniformity, they excel in reducing friction, which improves fuel efficiency and economy, controls heat, and reduces wear. This molecular uniformity also helps synthetics resist thinning in hot temperatures and thickening in cold.

In short, synthetics' versatility and pure, uniform molecular structure impart properties that provide better friction-reduction and wear protection, optimum fuel efficiency and superior film strength, a greater ability to resist shearing forces and viscosity breakdown, and extreme-temperature performance conventional lubricants just can't touch.




C. Synthetic Blends

A lower cost alternative to Full Synthetic motor oil is a Synthetic Blend / Semi-Synthetic motor oil.

A Synthetic Blend typically mixes anywhere from 60 to 80 percent conventional oil with 20 to 40 percent synthetic oil. Since there are no regulatory controls on what actual percentage mix constitutes a synthetic blend, the percentage of synthetic oil content can be even lower than 20 percent; therefore price and performance variation between various brands will occur.

You can also create your own "blend" by simply substituting a quart or two of full synthetic oil for conventional oil when you change your oil; most synthetic oils are totally compatible with conventional oils. The implication is superior performance at a lower cost. However, even if the base oils are compatible, there is the prospect that the additives used to create necessary performance properties could conflict, producing a lost in lubricant effectiveness.

Although a blended product offers some of the advantages of a full synthetic for less cost, it cannot match or compete with the performance level of full synthetic oil due to the refined oil content and generally does not support extended oil drain intervals.

Many of today's multi-grade "Full Synthetic" oils are actually in fact "Synthetic Blends" [See the next post below for more on this].


Motor Oil Additives

When Motor Oil is blended, many chemicals (additives) are added to the oil.

Additives impart new characteristics to the oil, or improve existing characteristics, enabling it to function in a desired manner when used to lubricate an engine. Additives improve the overall performance of the fluid.

Additives are used to enhance the beneficial properties of the base oil, helping it stand up to extreme operating environments, and make up for its deficiencies. Even the best base oil would not be able to protect as well against the effects of heat, shearing forces, chemical and water dilution, corrosion and wear particles. In short, additives make good base oils even better.

The various chemicals that comprise the additive system help modern Lubricants meet the increasing demands of today's high-tech engines. For passenger car motor oils, the base stock makes up 70 to 80 percent of the final product; the other 20 to 30 percent is comprised of additive chemistry.

It’s important to note that most additives are also sacrificial. Once they are gone, they’re gone. A proper oil analysis report can determine the health of the additives remaining in the lubricant.

For more, see:

What Is Motor Oil? Part 1: Petroleum & Hydrocarbons

What Is Motor Oil? Part 2: Motor Oil Base Stock

What Is Motor Oil? Part 3: Motor Oil Additives

 
#36 · (Edited)
Base Oil Groups

Base Oil Classification System

The American Petroleum Institute’s (API) "Base Oil Classification System" classifies base oils into five major Groups based on the level of Saturates, Sulfur and Viscosity Index. Before all the additives are added to the mixture, lubricating oils begin as one or more of these five API groups.


The first three Groups are refined from petroleum crude oil. Group IV base oils are fully synthesized poly-alpha-olefin (PAO) oils. Group V is for all other base oils not included in Groups I through IV.

In general, the chemical composition and performance properties of the base oil categories improve with advancing group number. For instance, Group I base oils have a lower concentration of saturates (saturated molecules) than Group II base oils, while Group II base oils have a lower concentration of saturates than Group III base oils, and so on.

The higher the number of Saturates, the higher the molecular bond strength of the oil and therefore the better the resistance to breakdown or loss of viscosity; the lower the Sulphur content, the better the purity and thus the lower the corrosive and oxidation potential; the higher the Viscosity Index, the less the base oil’s viscosity will change with changes in temperature and therefore less Viscosity Index Improver (VII) additives will be required, the more shear stable it will be, and the longer it will last.

Today, base oils from Groups III, IV and V are considered “synthetic”. However, only base oils from Groups IV and V are truly 100% synthetic (as per the original definition of a full synthetic motor oil).*

Group IV Polyalphaolefins (PAOs), which are made from very small uniform molecules, are chemically engineered through a process called synthesizing and therefore are considered true 100% synthetic base oils. Polyalphaolefins provide excellent performance characteristics and have few negative attributes.

PAO base oils are actually similar to mineral oils. The advantage comes from the fact that they are built, rather than extracted and modified, making them more pure. Since they are "man-made", they are tailored to have a controlled molecular structure with predictable properties.

* In 1999 the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Better Business Bureau, in response to a complaint from ExxonMobil, ruled that Castrol Syntec, which was based on a Group III+ base oil, could be considered "synthetic" because modern oils made using Severe Hydrocracking and Hydro-isomerization technology have most of the same performance features of a "true" Synthetic.

In light of this 'non-binding' ruling, the rest of the major oil manufacturers and blenders decided it was safe to expand that interpretation to cover all Group III base oils and proceeded to do so. It was a low risk marketing decision betting that no one would challenge the move after the NAD ruling, and they were right, no one did.

As a result, the synthetic line was drawn by the oil marketers between Group II+ and Group III base oils. This took pretty much all of the meaning out of the term "synthetic".

However, only Groups IV & V base oils are truly 100% Synthetic.

Note: In some European countries (e.g. Germany), unlike in North America, only Groups IV and V based motor oils can be labelled "Synthetic".

Now that said, what truly matters in the end however, is the quality and performance of the finished blended product. The point is, a motor oil can’t be judged solely by its base oils – you need to take the entire formulation into account (base stock plus additives).

LINK: Base Oil Classification System


Richard
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jacob King
#37 · (Edited)
What Does Motor Oil Do?

Modern Motor Oil is a highly specialized product carefully developed by engineers and chemists to perform many essential functions. Today’s oils are complex, chemically engineered compounds that have significantly improved upon refined crude oil.

What does Motor Oil do?


  • Lubricates / Reduces Friction
  • Cools
  • Keeps Engines Clean
  • Prevents Rust and Corrosion
  • Neutralizes Acids
  • Seals
  • Permits Easier Starting
  • Increases Fuel Economy



Lubricates / Reduces Friction

While Motor Oil serves a variety of functions, it’s primarily role is to lubricate the engine. Once an engine is started, the oil must circulate promptly and lubricate all moving parts to prevent the metal to-metal contact that would result in wear, scoring, or seizure of the engine.

A reduction in friction leads to less wear on components, easier movement, and reduced energy needs of the system. In fact, some well-designed engine oils can actually increase a car’s fuel economy.

Friction generates heat, so for a lubricant to be successful, it needs to retain its lubricity (slipperiness) even when it gets hot. If a lubricant lacks thermal stability, then it begins to break down when it gets hot, which leads to increased friction.

For oil to be effective it cannot boil away or freeze. In either case, the oil would cease to reduce friction. In the first case, it would simply disappear and leave the moving parts to grind upon one another. In the second case, it would actually increase friction, perhaps to the point of preventing movement altogether.

Motor oils must lubricate and prevent wear in all temperature extremes. Oil that does not flow well in cold temperatures will leave parts of the engine with no protection at start-up (this is when the most metal to metal contact occurs and thus the most wear).

On the other hand, oil that becomes too fluid at high operating temperatures will not be able to maintain an adequate film thickness between moving parts.

Oil flow also refreshes critical additives to the working surfaces. This reserve additive supply includes anti-wear additives, friction modifiers, corrosion inhibitors and others. Lubricant starvation produces elevated heat, which rapidly depletes additives.

Cools

Another essential role of motor oil is to cool the engine. The radiator/antifreeze system is responsible for about 60 percent of the engine cooling that takes place. However, this cools only the upper portion of the engine, including the cylinder heads, cylinder walls and valves. The other 40 percent is cooled by the oil.

Engine heat is created from friction of moving parts and the ignition of fuel inside the cylinder. Oil carries heat away from these hot surfaces as it flows downward and dissipates heat to the surrounding air when it reaches the crankcase.

Keeps Engines Clean

Another important feature of any motor oil related to preventing rust and corrosion is the necessity of keeping engine components clean.

Unburned fuel and soot can mix with water to form sludge and varnish deposits on critical engine parts. Sludge build up may clog oil passages, which reduces oil flow. Varnish build up interferes with proper clearances, restricts oil flow and causes vital engine parts to stick and malfunction. Sludge and varnish can be controlled with the proper additives and can be filtered out of vital engine components.

In performing its lubrication function, some oil must reach the area of the top piston ring in order to lubricate the rings and cylinder walls. However, when exposed to the heat and flame of burning fuel, part of the oil actually boils off.

Modern oils have been chemically engineered to burn as cleanly as possible in order to minimize the harmful deposits left on the walls of the combustion chambers. When excessive deposits build up this can cause ring sticking and breakage, pinging, engine knock or other combustion irregularities that reduce the efficiency and economy of the engine.

Protects Against Rust and Corrosion

For each gallon of fuel burned in an engine, more than one gallon of water is formed. Although most of this water is in vapour form and goes out the exhaust, some condenses on the cylinder walls or escapes past the piston rings and is trapped, at least temporarily, in the crankcase. This occurs most frequently in cold weather before the engine has warmed up.

In addition to water and the by-products from incomplete combustion of the fuel, other corrosive combustion gases also get past the rings and are condensed or dissolved in the engine oil. Add to this the acids formed by the normal oxidation of oil and the potential for rust and corrosive engine deposits becomes significant.

The life of engine parts depends in part on the ability of the motor oil to neutralize these corrosive substances. Oil helps to stop or prevent corrosion by coating components in a thin layer that protects them from exposure to oxygen and other “oxidizers” that can cause chemical reactions to occur that lead to damage to the surface of a material.

The best known example of corrosion is rust. Rust occurs when iron is exposed to oxygen. Rusting can be increased by exposure to water and salt (as anyone who lives in a snowy region where salt is applied to the roads will know).

Thanks to much research, effective oil-soluble chemical compounds have been developed. These are added to motor oils during manufacture to provide vital protection to engine parts.

Neutralizes Acids

Oil’s ability to neutralize acids is expressed by its Base Number (BN) or Total Base Number (TBN).

As oil is used in service, it becomes contaminated with acids, causing the Base Number to drop over time. The BN measures the reserve alkalinity of oil, which is the ability of an alkali to neutralize the effect of acid formation. The greater the number, the greater the amount of acidic by-products the oil can neutralize.

Synthetics have a much higher Base Number retention than petroleum-based formulations. The longer a lubricant can resist turning to acid, the longer it can be used. The BN is contributed by overbase additives such as detergents.

A high Total Base Number (TBN) is particularly important in extended drain interval oils because they neutralize acids, and more of them, for a longer period of time. By using oil analysis, you will be able to track the TBN of your oil and determine how much life is remaining.

Seals

The surfaces of the piston rings, ring grooves and cylinder walls are not completely smooth. They feature microscopic hills and valleys that can reduce engine efficiency by allowing combustion pressure to escape into the low pressure area of the crankcase.

Motor oils must fill in these hills and valleys on ring surfaces and the cylinder walls.

This oil film serves as a seal between the contacting surfaces of the piston rings and interior surfaces of the cylinders to separate the combustion chamber in the cylinder head from the crankcase in the engine block, allowing for maximum combustion pressure.

Permits Easier Starting

The ease of starting an engine depends not only on the condition of the battery, ignition and fuel quality, but also on the flow properties of the motor oil.

If the oil is too viscous (thick) at starting temperatures, it will impose enough drag on the moving parts that the engine cannot be cranked fast enough to start promptly and keep running.

Oil that does not flow well in cold temperatures will leave parts of the engine with no protection at start-up (this is when the most metal to metal contact occurs and thus the most wear).

Since cold temperatures thicken all oils, an oil for winter use must be thin enough to permit adequate cranking speeds at the lowest anticipated temperature. It must also be fluid enough to quickly flow to the bearings to prevent wear.

In addition, the oil must be thick enough, when the engine reaches normal operating temperatures, to provide adequate protection.

Increases Fuel Economy

A final function of motor oil is in increasing fuel economy.

Various additives such as friction modifiers can allow engines to operate at increased levels of efficiency, resulting in better fuel economy for vehicles. A motor oil that has a lower 'hot temperature' viscosity (i.e. a thinner oil) will also offer better fuel economy than a 'thicker' oil due to its lower parasitic drag.

The use of synthetic motor oil can have a profound impact on fuel economy. Industry tests demonstrate an average conservative decrease in fuel consumption by two to five percent by switching to synthetic lubricants. Synthetic lubricants reduce friction and allow engines to use energy more efficiently.

All of these functions, to some extent, can be performed by both mineral and synthetic oils. However, synthetic oils do not contain many of the impurities that mineral oils do allowing them to perform at higher levels in all categories.

LINK: What Does Motor Oil Do?


Pretender
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jacob King
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top