Factory Radio Upgrades

[carlman]

I posted a question about how to upgrade the speakers and amp in the Sorento in the radio section a few days ago but haven't gotten much/any info. (Here..) So, thought I'd ask what people have done here. I tried doing a search and only found 2 threads, 1 referenced how they'd seen what others had done.. but I couldn't find where... Links to installs, photos, etc. are appreciated.

The stock system sounds 'fair'. I'm used to good sound, though. The satellite radio is the worst I've ever heard. The sound is tinny and etched. Cymbals sound like synthesized static. I'm guessing that because it's free I have a lower level bitstream rate... but I don't know.. They'd have to pay me to listen to it. OK, now you know what kind of snob I really am!

In any case, I was going to upgrade the speakers but I can't find definitive information about what sizes are in the doors. It's either 5.25, 6.5, or 6.75 depending on the source. I have an LX with the basic radio, nothing fancy.

I cannot imagine put a set of nice Boston Acoustics into the doors and having the stock radio sound good. So, I wanted to do an amp. If I have to convert from speaker to line level then I'll just get better cheap speakers.. Otherwise amplifying the already terrible amp section of this stereo will be a waste.

I'm interested in hearing and seeing what others have done, and reading your results. Many many thanks for any info from folks who have done upgrades to their new Sorentos!

-C

[CarLover]

I recently went to a Car Audio Shop and the owner came out and had a listen to my basic Radio which is the worst ever. He said that the receiver is too weak to pump out enough power. He suggested an Amp and a small subwoofer which would be about $800 including installation. He felt the speakers in the car would probably be okay, but he also stated there is no guarantee that they would be. He told me they just did that to a Honda Pilot because the owner was not happy with the factory system and it made it much better sounding. I think we will probably just stick with the factory crap for now. I just got my son's tuition, room and board bills at a private college, and ordered used books via Amazon just before I sent this reply. I'll be working until I'm in my 70's now. Don't need to spend $800 for something like that. We just play it low so we don't have to here how bad it really is.

[whodat90]

Speakers are 6.5 or 6.75 depending on whether or not you gut the stock speakers. Head unit is underpowered, but not especially bad. Biggest problem is that the stock head unit includes so much it'd cost an awful lot of money to replicate it (am/fm/cd/sat/bluetooth streaming/bluetooth phone/usb/ipod) aftermarket. There are cheap chinese replacement head units, but they are exactly that, cheap. User interface sucks, and they still don't have satellite. Adding an amp is a viable option, but you run into problems. Not the one you pointed out, with the amplifying distortion. The problem you run into is that the stock head unit uses sound shaping, pulling certain frequencies (bass primarily) at certain volumes. Louder you turn it, the less bass there is. An amplifier can't fix that. Something like the RF-three sixty.3 or JBL MS-8 can fix most of the problems, at significant cost. That said, if you set the gains correctly, an amp is perfectly fine, as you can adjust the gain to reach full volume before the sound shaping steps in. I find it audible at volume 17-20 on mine. Gonna throw a scope on the outputs and play some pink noise at varying volumes to find exactly where it hits.

Edit: New speakers can make a world of difference. Two things affect sound output, input wattage and sensitivity. You can make it louder/clearer with more power, or by putting in speakers that are more efficient for the same power input. Unless you're going to add an amp, stay away from the '250w' speakers, since they're not nearly as efficient as speakers that have a 20-50w rating.

[AAWSHADS]

Ok, first, the "cheap" chinese unit I bought and integrated into my system is every bit as good as the $1000 stereos with the same specs at 1/3 the price. Has nav, dvd player, and all the bells and whistles you could ever want in a fairly simple touch screen interface. Unit I got is here. I have been so happy with mine over the first 8 months, that i am buying one for my wife's new Sorento. The fact that it maintains steering wheel controls and looks like it came from the factory is a major selling point, I even have a dealer preparing to install these aftermarket by request for some of their customers.

Ok, the factory speakers on the LX are actually not bad, Kia uses the same speakers in both the regular and the premium audio. The premium audio adds an amp, extra speakers and a sub. I looked at replacing them, but I did some checking around and found out that they are really just underpowered. I had the same problem as you, everything sounded tinny. Just by changing out the head unit with one that had more wattage output increased the sound 100%. So if you were to do just an amp, that should fix that problem, I have people ask me what kind of speakers are in the doors and are shocked when I tell them factory.
No matter what though, the speakers do not have enough range, especially the low end. I added a sub using a line level convertor patched in below the drivers side door trim and floating the line back to the rear spare tire access area where I mounted the sub and convertor. I got a small (read will fit behind the 3rd row seats if it needs to) but powerful Rockford Fosgate 10" prime sub, and after hooking it up and tweaking the levels my system sounds way better than the premium audio system for less than $750.

For wiring diagrams and such go to Kiatechinfo.com Sign up and you will have the same info as the dealership.

Speakers are 6.5". Then you have 2.5" tweeters in the upper door panel.

Factory base radio has no pre outs and is very difficult to tie into. I would suggest a Scoshe line level convertor is you really want to go that route.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

[carlman]

Thanks for the really helpful replies. I've upgraded the stock system in every car my wife and I have owned. (Your welcome, Crutchfield and Ebay sellers!) The last upgrade was to my wife's RAV4.. Wow, mega big improvement with a Pioneer nav system with bluetooth.. the CD player/DAC is really nice in that unit.. way better than anything I've heard from Kenwood, JVC, or even Alpine... I replaced everything in the 'yota because it was all crap... new wires, JL Audio amp and sub, liquid goo for sound deadener, etc..

Really great advice and thoughts from everyone, many thanks. The sound shaping would've been a real surprise to me, for sure. I've noticed it gets 'weird' as I turn it up but couldn't place it.. hadn't spent enough time critically listening to figure it out. But it definitely thins out the bass... I just thought the amp wasn't able to keep up with the voltage demand... but then it wasn't clipping or super distorted like I'd expect in that situation.. but anyway, thanks for solving that mystery.

Adding a small sub is a definite, but part of the reason I got this SUV was to get space. So, I'll have to figure out a way to put it in the stock location.. even if it is just an 8", that's where it has to go. I need 3rd row seating and the storage.. all of it.

I will try an amp first, that's easy enough. I'll just put it at high gain off the bat to stay in the sweet spot of full-range. Really sucks that creating a pre-out is a pain. I would imagine with all the processing they're doing it's a tough schematic to follow... and tough to bypass whatever signal enhancements are in there.

If a new amp isn't enough, I'll work on speakers.. or a new head unit will be considered. Speaker installs can be a real pain so it's nice to know they can be made to sound good.

Thanks again,
Carl

[Mysticality]

http://www.kia-forums.com/2011-xm-so...-tweeters.html

[carlman]

Just coming back around to say I'm FINALLY getting to this project.
I do not have (all) the tools to do a good job of this so I'm going to let a pro install my speakers and amp.
I ended up getting some Sony X-plod components (GTX 1622S) for the front.
I also have Boston Acoustic SE60's for the rear. (I wanted BA all around but that didn't fit with the Christmas plan)
I have an Alpine mrp-f300 4-channel amp and and most importantly... an active line output converter (LC2i from Audio Control).
I'm getting Dynamat in the doors also.

I'm using 4awg power wire to a distribution block and then 8awg to the Alpine amp. That will leave me a tap to add a subwoofer later.

Which leads me to my latest questions about a sub... Has anyone taken a photo of the area where the OEM sub goes? Does anyone know what will fit? Can you retrofit a good sub in the stock/OEM Inifinity sub and use a good amp to get good results?

Found the answer here: http://www.kia-forums.com/2011-xm-so...ce-how-do.html

I might just do one of those under-the-seat little subs in this location... not sure yet.

[socaboy]

I had all of my speakers replaced, added a amp and a 10" SUB. I still have the UVO because I found if I went aftermarket I would lose alot of features.

Mb Quart - Speakers(all doors) and AMP(under driver seat)
Energy - SUB
Kia - UVO
Amplifier Integration Harness(so I can Keep my UVO)
Red LED floor lights

[carlman]

Has anyone tried installing a super compact sub?
I had one of these in an S-10 pickup: Sound Ordnance™ B-8PT 120-watt compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

I thought it was OK but nothing earth shattering... better than nothing for sure, though... and for $150, you're done.

There's also this Kicker for $300 which probably sounds pretty good:
Kicker 11HS8 Hideaway compact powered subwoofer: 150 watts and an 8" sub at Crutchfield.com

Without knowing the size of the cavity it's too difficult to say what might fit. If it wasn't such a huge pain to remove the interior panels, I'd measure.

I just figure it'll save a day of woodworking if I were to go this route. A JL sub and amp will cost me $250 easily... plus the box build... Would it be worth a lost day compared to something already made?

-C

[carlman]

Originally Posted by carlman

Sony X-plod components (GTX 1622S) for the front.
I also have Boston Acoustic SE60's for the rear. (I wanted BA all around but that didn't fit with the Christmas plan)
I have an Alpine mrp-f300 4-channel amp and and most importantly... an active line output converter (LC2i from Audio Control).
I'm getting Dynamat in the doors also.

I'm using 4awg power wire to a distribution block and then 8awg to the Alpine amp. That will leave me a tap to add a subwoofer later.

I couldn't go with the unknown of the Sony's... I bought a pair of JL Audio C2's. Could NOT be more pleased with the sound. The installer did an incredible job for me. (Found him locally on CL.)

I'm not sure I need a sub. The system sounds really incredible, lots of bass. The JL and Boston's compliment each other pretty well. The Boston's have a good bit of lower midrange warmth and the JL's don't... But the JL's have a lot of punch. Just a good sound all around.

With the active LOC I chose to use very little gain on the amp. The 'Accubass' feature is kind of annoying. I thought it would help re-shape the curve of the OEM system but it does not... it just adds bass.

I can still hear the imperfections of the stock OEM DAC/processing, especially the radio. The iPod sounds incredible, though... I'm glad I finally did this. It's a pleasure to drive and listen to tunes now.

Also, adding dynamat on the inside of the door and the front side (where the handle/controls are) really helped improve the quietness of the ride... and the sound quality of the system... just more dynamic range available. Very cool.

Thanks to this forum for some helpful replies and links. I hope more people post their experiences.