DRL activation

whodat90 · 05-25-2011, 06:09 PM

There have been a few threads about the DRLs and how to make them work. I figured I'd consolidate the info on how it's done with pics. First is the wiring diagram, which shows that when the DRL 'option' is installed, there is a wire that's grounded. It shows it as pin 10 of connector IP-D. IP is the Internal Panel, or the inside fuse box. D is the 4th connector on the front of the panel. It's the white one directly under the 3-wire black one. Next pic shows the socket where the connector sits (in the pic it's disconnected)

Edit: Thanks to Pickyworks for finding this information. This post is only my particular installation.

whodat90 · 05-25-2011, 06:15 PM

Next is the style of connector pin. I haven't identified it by name yet, but I happened to have 4 of them in my parts bin. Not shown is the one I used, just the one I pulled out of the connector to identify it.
Next pic is the back of the connector, showing the empty pin socket. If you happen to have one of the correct connectors, all you need to do is pop out the lock on the bottom of the connector and insert the new terminal till it clicks.

whodat90 · 05-25-2011, 06:31 PM

Ok, next pics are of the ground point I used. I soldered to the back of a ring terminal already there, which was installed by Kia for my stupid $240 rear view mirror. I used some 16g wire that matched the wire used in that terminal, and ran it alongside for a factory look.
Last two pics show voltage at the high-beam bulb with DRL activated and with high-beam on. As I thought, the DRL operates by running the high-beams at half power. I'm guessing that it uses Pulse Width Modulation, but don't care enough to test for it.

whodat90 · 05-25-2011, 06:41 PM

And that's it. DRLs done pretty close to the factory way. For total OEM you'd have to ground it to the ground point behind the driver's side headlight/horn. That seemed a bit extreme to me. I removed the electrical tape holding the sticky-backed vinyl wire harness cover closed, fished my wire through for about 4", then out the side to follow the mirror wires. Re-taped the end closed using regular old electrical tape. From my standpoint, it's pretty much stock looking. There's not a lot of room to work with there, but when I finally get moving on my stereo install and open up the dash more, I'll redo the ground to splice into a real factory ground point rather than the one I'm using now. Note that if you plan to get HID high beams,

this shouldn't be done as the HIDs need a full 12v to fire them off correctly, and definitely don't like the PWM input.

pickyworks · 05-26-2011, 04:51 AM

I don't see any credits as to where you got this information because as of 23 just three days ago you were still researching it
QUOTE
PLP, I think it is mostly pre wired. There isn't a different part number for the bcm/light control module for with/without drl. It just shows that a particular pin (pin 10 of IP-D) is grounded when it has the DRL option. That pin is unpopulated in my connector,(without factory DRLs) but others have reported success by grounding the fuse itself. It appears that the DRL is similar to some other vehicles where the DRL is actually the high beam being run at some fraction of full power. I'm still researching, and even more I'm trying to find a source for the pins used in the connectors so that I could tap directly into the factory block rather than splice wires.
Then I Answered the thread with this fix to the same thread and you HIGHJACKED IT nice going,
MY POSTING
Some of the suggestions made to wire the DRL's ,I would not use, this is what I did .
Remove the DRL fuse use, an electrical tester to check each side of the fuse seat one side should have power (DC volts) the other should have nothing,
Change your tester to resistance checker that is when the probes are put together the tester will move full scale, on the fuse side that has NO power put one probe and put the other probe into the terminal block (located directly below the fuses) between the large white wire and the small grey wire this should move the meter to full scale indicating you have continuity from one to the other,
Using the appropriate connecter, plug in the 18ga wire to the terminal block and connect the other again using a connecter suitable, to the grounding bolt.
Once done reinsert the fuse and your done.
IF ANY OF THIS CONFUSES YOU THEN TAKE IT TO A DEALER OR AUTO ELECTRICAL SHOP.
Oh by the way you don't have to run the ground wire all the way to the head lights its a wast of time and effort since the body of the vehicle is the ground conduit for all power sources back to the negative terminal on the battery you can connect anywhere there is a convenient grounding point and as so many of the contributors to my thread have pointed out the bolt to the left of the fusees is a good location,
If theirs any confusion out there you just added to it

whodat90 · 05-26-2011, 07:47 AM

You want the credit, feel free to take it. I posted this as information, not as an attention grab. First post edited to reflect that you receive all credit.

PLP · 05-26-2011, 09:29 AM

I do not have Sorento, so could not say 100% about that car, BUT for sure in Rondo you do not have all wires.

Besides, I checked and found that DRL (only in CDN) has different harness.

It would be great if I could find how to activate DRL in Rondo...

Could you help, guys?

whodat90 · 05-26-2011, 09:30 AM

Le me do some research, I'll have to get into the Rondo's ETM again.

Edit: Not gonna happen with stock stuff. The DRL circuit in the Rondo uses a separate DRL control module, and appears to use a resistor rather than PWM to knock the voltage down. You'll have an easier time going with something like http://www.soundoffsignal.com/electr...e/ETDRLHFC.pdf or Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply .
First pic is the DRL module, second is the circuit.

dawgfan · 05-26-2011, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whodat90

Next is the style of connector pin. I haven't identified it by name yet, but I happened to have 4 of them in my parts bin. Not shown is the one I used, just the one I pulled out of the connector to identify it.
Next pic is the back of the connector, showing the empty pin socket. If you happen to have one of the correct connectors, all you need to do is pop out the lock on the bottom of the connector and insert the new terminal till it clicks.

Can you tell me where I can obtain this type of connector pin. Would a typical auto parts store carry it?

whodat90 · 05-27-2011, 08:53 AM

I'm still looking trying to find what it's actually called. Check with Pickyworks.