Kia Forum banner

Sorento 2011 XM - Keyless start /intemittent issue

16K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  MurlinatoR  
#1 ·
My wife is enjoying our newly purchased Sorento...after about 3wks of driving we have had 2 instances where the vehicle would not start. Foot on brake, car in park....second occurence took ~10min. before car started...any ideas?
 
#2 ·
Have you replaced the battery in the FOB? Also when/if it does it again.. did you put the FOB in the cradle that is in the armrest between the driver/passenger seat? Is it just 1 or both of the FOB?

If the battery is dead or almost dead and car dosent start, the cradle is there to give it enuff juice to start the car. Only other thing I can think of is that somehow someway the FOB is loosing its pairing with the vehicle.
 
#4 ·
I have trouble too....

I have had my Kia at the dealership for over four weeks now. They say they need to replace the Fuse box as there is an issue with the electrical relay. Problem is they cant seem to get the part. Ive heard for 3 weeks now that the part will arrive tomorrow. but tomorrow never comes. Anyone else out there having issues with not start on a push start
 
#8 ·
pipallazzo, I am still having a hard brake pedal. Dealer adjusted brake linkage which provided more movement of the pedal. This provided enough clearance to activate the brake light switch. The engine will start. I am still after the dealer to fix the brake pedal issue, this only happens after the car sets over night. From what I can determine there is a leak in the brake booster system that will cause the pedal be held at it's upper position. Please let me know if you are having the same issue. Thanks !!!
 
#9 ·
Gentlemen, I got the same issue way back then and until now still occuring when sometimes I loosely push my brake pedal once and push the button start. The engine is cranking but It will not start. If you will not push the button to stop, It will continue to crank that seems not completing the starting cycle. If that's happens, I simply placed the FOB into it's slot and it starts. After that, it's starts as usual.

Reasons why happen, 1)poor FOB transmission(pairing) 2) Weak FOB battery 3)There might be high interferencing signal around you. 4)Brake pedal switch doesn't engaging properly..what else?

Note: Since then, I develop a habit of pushing the brake pedal 3 times before I push the Start Button. Seems work perfectly... Good Luck!
 
#10 · (Edited)
One temporary solution when the car wont start :

transponder being in the car : dont press the brake pedal ,press once
the start button to enter proper mode ,
then push and hold the start button for 10 seconds ,
at 11 seconds the motor will start.

I know 2 sources for the wontstart situation :

1) the brake switch refuses
to send the ok to the computer .

2) the fuse that controls the brake lights is burnt-loose- or something
is wrong along this circuit.
this fuse is found in the motor compartiment.

I have a post about this problem , when your problem get
fixed make this test : remove this fuse and see the exact problem re-appear...
it makes a perfect thief deterrent if you park for a long period...
 
#11 ·
MJM Spicy Red. Sounds just like our problem. I have an appt. to take it to the dealer next week. From speaking to them on the phone I'm not expecting much.
I did some other research on the internet and found someone who actually posted a fix. Error posted was Intermittent Open Brake Switch. Error code also posted was P0504 and fix was a switch assembly-stop.
Will ask the dealership about this also.
Very frustrating problem and should not happen for paying good money for this car.
 
#12 ·
Just a thought, the brakes are hydraulic... So wouldn't the 'hard to press' brake pedal just indicate a discharged hydraulic line? (You can recreate this by continually pressing down on the brakes of a car that doesn't have the engine running)
 
#13 ·
I have been with KIA now 2+ years. I am no mechanic, but across the parts counter, it seems the brake/stop lamp switch is a commone and easy fix on all KIAs.

Not saying that this is the fix to all of the above problems, but it will afect everything you guys have been saying.

The Fob battery wont stop the car from starting, when you put the FOB in the car. The chip that signals the car that it is ok to start is always functioning. When you put it in the craddle it will always start, dead FOB battery or not. The battery will stop the doors from locking and unlocking. That is a good idicator if it is the battery in the FOB or not.

Kia Parts eStore
 
#14 ·
kiaEparts, I understand there have been several Brake Switch issues. But in my case the pedal can not be depressed to the normal stopping position. This is normally after the car has sets overnight. How many brake boosters have you sold? I have to have a leak down issue some where in the braking circuit. Car now is in shop because the transmission drops out of gear and slams back in after the car moves about 5 feet. No fault codes on the dash, but you lose Gear position indicator light on dash. Hope they will fix both issues.
 
#15 ·
I have been having the same problems on my 2011 Kia Sorento EX V6. It started 3 months after purchasing the car brand new. The told me they couldnt find anything wrong with the car. Took the car back in Sept 2012, still nothing wrong. Finally after the 4th time in the dealership, they told me they had to replace the battery and the brake switch. Since then I hear a loud clicking when I press on the brake pedal. they also had to replace both fuel sending units a few weeks later. Now, in Nov 2012, the car wouldnt start again. They are telling me that I have a bad battery cable clamp and they have the part on order. This is ridiculous how many of us are having this issue. I think they need to look into this problem more. Sounds like a recall is in order
 
#16 ·
Dealer stumped...Owner unhappy!!

OK...I'm soooo frustrated. I've had my Sorento for about a year and a half...and a couple months ago it just started NOT STARTING. It is now at the dealership for the 3rd time...with no results. They've had it for 2 days...and haven't got any idea what to do. They keep telling me that they haven't been able to recreate the failure. Nevermind the fact that when I picked it up after the last time I took it in...hoping they could actually DO SOMETHING about it...it failed to start right in front of the Service Manager when I tried to leave. I keep seeing all kinds of posts about other people having this problem...but no resolutions. They've ruled out the break pedal switch...the bad battery...bad battery cell. I just called them to see if they've had any luck...and they're just clueless. He told me to give him some more time and he'll call me back later. I appreciate that they're always nice....SUPER NICE ACTUALLY...but that just doesn't mean anything to me when I'm making fat payments on a car that I can't drive because its in the shop. Or am afraid to drive if I have my grandchildren or the disabled woman I care for along with me. Instead of my brand new pretty luxury model with all the bells and whistles...I have to drive the 9 year old crew cab pickup...which is uncomfortable...just so I know I'm not going to be stranded...waiting on a tow truck...with 2 itty bitty little girls and a disabled woman using a walker.:confused::(:confused::(

Please...if anyone has any idea of a solution that the dealer could try...something that worked for you...let me know. I'm getting pretty frustrated.
 
#18 ·
Did you hear an audible beep from outside the car? The same beep that sounds when you walk away while its running with the key on you.

I have this issue intermittently. I will push the button, it will beep and start cranking for 10 seconds until it stops by itself. i normally just stop it myself by hitting the button.

It always fires up second try though. This is VERY intermittent. Impossible to recreate at the dealer if I tried to.
 
#19 ·
Good point RentoEX. Yes, it was beeping.

Looks like it had lost connection between fob and immo when we push the button at somewhere in middle of ignition process. Like fuel pump did not start or something like that.
To me it looks like a software problem, and probably could be reproduced by placing fob on border of "sensitivity area"
 
#20 ·
Looks like i finally found another person with the same issue. My Imobilizer light flashes on the dash at the same time this happens.

I describe it exactly the way you do, It's like the key looses connection with the car for a split second causing it to trigger the immobilizer.

The immobilizer disables the fuel pump which in return, causes the no start. I even swapped keys a few weeks ago to see if that solved the problem but its done it twice since then. I'm going to try holding the key certain ways to see if that makes a difference. It did it this monday once and I had the key gripped in the palm of my hand.