Sorento 2011 XM - Keyless start /intemittent issue - Page 2

pjpalazzo · 06-11-2011, 08:11 AM

MJM Spicy Red. Sounds just like our problem. I have an appt. to take it to the dealer next week. From speaking to them on the phone I'm not expecting much.
I did some other research on the internet and found someone who actually posted a fix. Error posted was Intermittent Open Brake Switch. Error code also posted was P0504 and fix was a switch assembly-stop.
Will ask the dealership about this also.
Very frustrating problem and should not happen for paying good money for this car.

Mysticality · 06-11-2011, 08:37 AM

Just a thought, the brakes are hydraulic... So wouldn't the 'hard to press' brake pedal just indicate a discharged hydraulic line? (You can recreate this by continually pressing down on the brakes of a car that doesn't have the engine running)

kiaEparts · 06-11-2011, 12:47 PM

I have been with KIA now 2+ years. I am no mechanic, but across the parts counter, it seems the brake/stop lamp switch is a commone and easy fix on all KIAs.

Not saying that this is the fix to all of the above problems, but it will afect everything you guys have been saying.

The Fob battery wont stop the car from starting, when you put the FOB in the car. The chip that signals the car that it is ok to start is always functioning. When you put it in the craddle it will always start, dead FOB battery or not. The battery will stop the doors from locking and unlocking. That is a good idicator if it is the battery in the FOB or not.

Kia Parts eStore

MJM Spicy Re · 06-11-2011, 09:59 PM

kiaEparts, I understand there have been several Brake Switch issues. But in my case the pedal can not be depressed to the normal stopping position. This is normally after the car has sets overnight. How many brake boosters have you sold? I have to have a leak down issue some where in the braking circuit. Car now is in shop because the transmission drops out of gear and slams back in after the car moves about 5 feet. No fault codes on the dash, but you lose Gear position indicator light on dash. Hope they will fix both issues.

dawnkalapp · 11-13-2012, 07:36 PM

I have been having the same problems on my 2011 Kia Sorento EX V6. It started 3 months after purchasing the car brand new. The told me they couldnt find anything wrong with the car. Took the car back in Sept 2012, still nothing wrong. Finally after the 4th time in the dealership, they told me they had to replace the battery and the brake switch. Since then I hear a loud clicking when I press on the brake pedal. they also had to replace both fuel sending units a few weeks later. Now, in Nov 2012, the car wouldnt start again. They are telling me that I have a bad battery cable clamp and they have the part on order. This is ridiculous how many of us are having this issue. I think they need to look into this problem more. Sounds like a recall is in order

SkrewzieQ · 11-20-2012, 03:07 PM

OK...I'm soooo frustrated. I've had my Sorento for about a year and a half...and a couple months ago it just started NOT STARTING. It is now at the dealership for the 3rd time...with no results. They've had it for 2 days...and haven't got any idea what to do. They keep telling me that they haven't been able to recreate the failure. Nevermind the fact that when I picked it up after the last time I took it in...hoping they could actually DO SOMETHING about it...it failed to start right in front of the Service Manager when I tried to leave. I keep seeing all kinds of posts about other people having this problem...but no resolutions. They've ruled out the break pedal switch...the bad battery...bad battery cell. I just called them to see if they've had any luck...and they're just clueless. He told me to give him some more time and he'll call me back later. I appreciate that they're always nice....SUPER NICE ACTUALLY...but that just doesn't mean anything to me when I'm making fat payments on a car that I can't drive because its in the shop. Or am afraid to drive if I have my grandchildren or the disabled woman I care for along with me. Instead of my brand new pretty luxury model with all the bells and whistles...I have to drive the 9 year old crew cab pickup...which is uncomfortable...just so I know I'm not going to be stranded...waiting on a tow truck...with 2 itty bitty little girls and a disabled woman using a walker.

Please...if anyone has any idea of a solution that the dealer could try...something that worked for you...let me know. I'm getting pretty frustrated.

dmitry · 11-20-2012, 04:40 PM

Do you guys have starter cranking during this 'bad start', or just silence when you depressed brake pedal and push start button? I had the problem once at morning - starter is cranking , and nothing, pressed push button again ( stop ) and again ( start ) - and car started just fine.

RentoEX · 11-20-2012, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmitry

Do you guys have starter cranking during this 'bad start', or just silence when you depressed brake pedal and push start button? I had the problem once at morning - starter is cranking , and nothing, pressed push button again ( stop ) and again ( start ) - and car started just fine.

Did you hear an audible beep from outside the car? The same beep that sounds when you walk away while its running with the key on you.

I have this issue intermittently. I will push the button, it will beep and start cranking for 10 seconds until it stops by itself. i normally just stop it myself by hitting the button.

It always fires up second try though. This is VERY intermittent. Impossible to recreate at the dealer if I tried to.

dmitry · 11-20-2012, 10:03 PM

Good point RentoEX. Yes, it was beeping.

Looks like it had lost connection between fob and immo when we push the button at somewhere in middle of ignition process. Like fuel pump did not start or something like that.
To me it looks like a software problem, and probably could be reproduced by placing fob on border of "sensitivity area"

RentoEX · 11-20-2012, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmitry

Good point RentoEX. Yes, it was beeping.

Looks like it had lost connection between fob and immo when we push the button at somewhere in middle of ignition process. Like fuel pump did not start or something like that.
To me it looks like a software problem, and probably could be reproduced by placing fob on border of "sensitivity area"

Looks like i finally found another person with the same issue. My Imobilizer light flashes on the dash at the same time this happens.

I describe it exactly the way you do, It's like the key looses connection with the car for a split second causing it to trigger the immobilizer.

The immobilizer disables the fuel pump which in return, causes the no start. I even swapped keys a few weeks ago to see if that solved the problem but its done it twice since then. I'm going to try holding the key certain ways to see if that makes a difference. It did it this monday once and I had the key gripped in the palm of my hand.