Kia Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

ABS, Traction Control, Decline Assist light on AGAIN!

175K views 52 replies 22 participants last post by  rio-t 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey folks,

While I've been reading many threads discussing my issue, I have yet to find one with a definite solution yet.

My wife's Sorento (2011 EX FWD) has the three mentioned lights pop on whenever they so desire. After starting up they won't go out sometimes, driving down the road, varying speeds, hot, cold weather, rain or dry....doesn't seem to matter....just come on whenever. If I shut off the car, the lights will 90% of the time go away just to come on again later. So, I replace the brake light switch as most suggested. I'm now on my 3rd switch in as many months with the last replacement going only 2 days. Never does the car throw any codes, nor any functions that go through the switch not work when lights are on.

I've talked to the service dept of my local dealer more times than I care to count. All they want me to do is bring it into scan for codes, and replace the brake switch for the low low price of over $150. When I tell them I let my 7 yr old daughter change the switch in less than 10 minutes, and I've done that 3 times, they still want to replace the switch. What's even better is electrical parts have "No Warranty" so I just keep buying them. At least the switches are only $15 and some change.

Also of note, Dealers are still using the same Part# switch that had the recall done a couple of years ago unless you specifically ask for the other Part# switch when buying.

Okay, off my soap-box rant.

I've seen some state they have changed an ABS sensor, but my question is.....which one if the computer flags no codes?

Very frustrating especially since my wife is the primary driver and it's happening more frequently.

Did I miss anything? I guess I can replace all ABS sensors one at a time if they aren't too expensive, but I haven't priced them yet.

Thanks for letting me rant.
 
See less See more
#4 ·
They aren't too hard to do yourself - I did them on my wife's old Accord 3 or 4 years ago. You're looking at around $100/wheel for the sensors - so $400 DIY, or probably $800 Dealership, to replace all 4 at once.

You can find them on places like Rock Auto - just look up 2011 Sorento ABS Sensor and you'll find them listed for each wheel (they are all different).

Your trouble lights seem to indicate one of them is intermittent - that's why you can't find the code. If you have one of the advanced ODBII / USB adapters you could hook it up to a laptop and run ScanTool or similar on the laptop while driving, it'll constantly talk to the ODBII system. If you're lucky you can catch the incident of the sensor causing the trouble lights as it's happening and find out what wheel it is from the code on the bus, saving you from replacing all the other sensors.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the extra info guys. Of course the dealer says that I can't buy just the sensor. He said the sensor is built into the hub and the hub assy must be replaced for the low low price of Front Hub: $262.67 & Rear Hub: $375.60 That is just the part price, not including labor cost. When I asked him "then why I am looking at the speed sensor assy's online that can be bought by them self," he didn't have an answer.

I do just about all my own maintenance, so will dig into it a bit further before buying anything. Rock Auto was my first place to look because it is.....well...........AWESOME!!!!

More to come when I can get to it again.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Update.....finally had a chance to troubleshoot further

Finally got a chance to dig into this thing..........Since my vehicle was never flagging any codes, I ohmed through all 4 ABS sensors at their connections. Both front sensors were equal (approx. 650 ohms). I went to the rear sensors, disconnected the plug. I ohmed through both rear sensors (approx. 1450 ohms on the right & only 250 on the left rear).

The dealer will only replace the entire hub assy because the rear sensor is part of the hub assy (so they say). I have ordered the rear ABS sensor from Rock Auto for about $85 shipped. I should have it in the next few days and will tackle replacement this weekend. I refuse to believe the entire hub assy has to be replaced every time an ABS sensor goes bad. Why in the world would parts suppliers sell just the sensor?

I will certainly update you when I get the part and work it.

FYI,

My dealer also told me the front sensor is built into the hub assy and they only sell the hub assy and not just the sensor. Funny, once I got to troubleshooting, I found that the front sensor is a 3' wire harness with a disconnect plug in the fender well (behind the plastic) and the ABS sensor end is held into the front hub by only 1 10mm bolt. If I had to replace the front sensor, it would take me longer to remove the tire than replace the sensor.......I am so glad I have the mechanical skills to do 99% of my own maintenance.

Part shipped yesterday, so I should have an update by end of the weekend. Since it's my wife's daily driver, I'll have to wait until the weekend to work it.
 
#8 ·
Looking forward to your update. I've replaced ABS sensors on a 2000BMW 328CI, a 2001 Accord, and a '99 Silverado. They were all held in by one bolt and had a quick connect plug. I looked at the ones on my '11 Sorento because of this thread when I was swapping my winter tires for summers and it looks like they are all about the same on all 4 wheels. The worse thing that might happen is if the sensor is siezed into the housing due to road grime, corrosion, etc - you may have to destroy the old sensor to get it out, and then clean the mounting hole in the hub (which might require full disassembly of the hub - probably more work than you want to get into, but probably why Kia forces the dealers to replace the whole thing at once as a unit).
 
#9 ·
The fronts are just like you say....1 single 10mm bolt and a disconnect plug. I was able to remove them to inspect, clean, etc. Literally took longer to jack the vehicle up and remove the tire than if I had to replace the sensor. The back one is a solid ring that I assume goes around the axle and the hub just has to be removed in order to replace (have a look at Rock Auto for a pic). Still doesn't appear to be too difficult. I'll take and post pics once I get into the process this weekend.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Well crap-o-la. I got the part in today. Just for S-n-G's I ohmed it and it read 650 ohms which confirms my Left Rear is bad @ 250. However, when I looked at the connector, it is oval shaped. My 2WD model is more recatangle, so it won't connect. I got back on Rock Auto to look at pictures and sure enough, all pics show a rounded connector. However, the package mine came in was clearly marked for 4WD models. I contacted Rock Auto and they in turn contacted their vendor (Auto 7 in this case). Unfortunately, the vendor was already closed for the day, so I am a awaiting their call back with an update tomorrow. My Sorento is fully factory with no mods. So far, checking other sites like eBay and looking at pictures, everything shown is a rounded connector at the hub. eBay looks like all the sellers use the same stock photo though. Various part websites searched.....some list the sensor for "All models, while others list separate sensors depending on either AWD or FWD....wth?!?! Dealer confirmed it is a different part number for FWD and AWD models.

Still researching.............................
You'll know more when I do....stay tuned!
 
#11 ·
Okay, I think I got it all figured out. First, I'll admit I was wrong. the AWD sensor is sold separately and can be replaced alone. If I would have thought about it for half a second, I would have realized the FWD model like I have has no need for a hole for an axle end to go through...so, duh huh to me (forehead slap!)

I've attached the pics from Rock Auto to show what I mean. The Rear Hub Assy I need sells for a whopping $2 more than the sensor I ordered (which Rock Auto admitted was listed incorrectly for the FWD model). Just ordered the Hub Assy with expedited shipping so I can get back on track for a weekend repair.

Once the wheel is off, there are 4 bolts that hold the Hub Assy on, so should be less than 45 minutes total & $95 with expedited shipping to R2......compare that to $800 for dealer to R2
 

Attachments

#12 ·
ALL FIXED!!

Wow, how easy it was to replace with basic hand tools. Once I had my tools together, it took a grand total of 25 minutes start to finish (that includes jacking the vehicle up, removing and installing the rear wheel.

Info: ohmed the new hub assy ABS Sensor = 1550 ohms.
Tools needed: jack, jack stand (safety first!), 4-way or whatever you have to remove lug nuts, pliers, 14mm shallow socket and a wratchet.

Step 1: Jack vehicle and set on jack stand
Step 2: Remove wheel
Step 3: Remove 2 each 14mm bolts holding brake caliper assy (set aside to avoid hanging by brake line)
Step 4: **Ensure e-brake is OFF for this. Remove 2 each #3 phillips screws holding on brake disc and pull off (might take a rubber mallet to get loose)
Step 5: Pull off retaining clip for ABS sensor and disconnect plug
Step 6: Remove 4 each 14mm bolts holding on Hub Assy
Step 7: Remove Hub Assy.

Install in reverse order.
Crank car and drive forward to make dash lights go out once and for all. YOU ARE DONE!! (See pics to follow steps)
 
#13 · (Edited)
Pics added. Sorry, I guess I missed a couple pic steps.

Also attached a pdf of Rock auto to show price range in Hub's. They gave me a full refund including shipping cost since they had a listing error for the sensor I ordered earlier in the week. Did I mention rock Auto is AWESOME!!!!

Dealership part + Labor = $800
DIY parts + 25 minutes or so = $85
 

Attachments

#15 ·
A good suggestion I always have for these jobs is to use a bungee cord to hang your brake caliper from your coil spring - the hooks on a bungee fit in the caliper bolt holes perfectly - if you wrap the cord around the top of the spring it's usually just the right length to hold the caliper up nice and high out of the way and ensures you don't accidentally hang or tug the hose too much.

Great job - thanks for the pictures and follow-up. I have the AWD - this explains why my rear sensors were different than you. I totally missed where you had the FWD version. Glad it went well and now if my '11 ever decides to have an issue, I know it should be no big deal and I can save lots of moolah.
 
#18 ·
Glad I found this, same issue on my 2012 Sorento. RR sensor 340 ohms, LR 630. Ordering replacement hub assembly from Rock Auto......and yes, Rock Auto is awesome, I've been using them for years on various vehicles.
 
#19 ·
New hubs/WSS read open circuit / infinite resistance

Hmmmmm. Received the hub/sensor assembly from Rock Auto, USPS mangled the box. Checked resistance on the sensor and it read open circuit / no continuity.....I'd expected to read something. I used two different meters, switched leads, checked each pin to the hub. Contacted Rock Auto and they sent a second one, which arrived today. Checked resistance - same result. I'm thinking this is a Hall effect sensor with the ground connection made internally, so that the pins are reference voltage and signal. Would make sense to read open circuit resistance. I'm wondering if BOTH rear sensors are bad, or perhaps the lower resistance one is TOO low and the other is on its way to failing. It won't take long to install, so that will be the real test. If it takes both hubs to fix the problem, so be it, I'll let Rock Auto charge me for both and be done with it.
 
#47 ·
New hubs/WSS read open circuit / infinite resistance

Hmmmmm. Received the hub/sensor assembly from Rock Auto, USPS mangled the box. Checked resistance on the sensor and it read open circuit / no continuity.....I'd expected to read something. I used two different meters, switched leads, checked each pin to the hub. Contacted Rock Auto and they sent a second one, which arrived today. Checked resistance - same result. I'm thinking this is a Hall effect sensor with the ground connection made internally, so that the pins are reference voltage and signal. Would make sense to read open circuit resistance. I'm wondering if BOTH rear sensors are bad, or perhaps the lower resistance one is TOO low and the other is on its way to failing. It won't take long to install, so that will be the real test. If it takes both hubs to fix the problem, so be it, I'll let Rock Auto charge me for both and be done with it.
I've run into this same situation. My drivers side rear wheel hub/sensor reads 120 ohms, and my passenger side reads around 800. So that leads me to believe that the one that reads 120 is bad. Ok, so I got a replacement from 1A Auto and installed it. No change, the warning lights are still on. The reading on this one is 25 M ohms. Wtf? I did not check this one before I installed it not thinking that it would be bad. I just assumed after reading this thread it would be fine after replacing the bad wheel hub/sensor. So, I contacted 1A and they sent me another wheel hub. I checked it before installing it and it reads around 400 K ohms. They sent me a 3rd one and the same thing 400 k ohms. They refunded my money and I'm ok with that. Thanks 1A Auto customer service. So then I ordered a Kia oem part, and I get the same thing you're talking about. An open reading. From the factory part!!! So, I installed it anyway just to see what would happen (third time I'm doing this in about a months time and I have the time down to about 20 mins with hand tools only) The reading changed to 30 M ohms. Anybody have any idea what is going on here? I really don't want to take it to the dealership and have them try to diagnose this.

If you've read this far thank you. I need some help here :rolleyes:
 
#20 · (Edited)
Sorry guys. For some reason I stopped getting notifications of replies to my thread or notifications of PM's sent to me. I just responded to the PM from jresch66. The part I used form Rock Auto was WJB WA512326 {#512326} REAR; FWD for $59.79 + shipping.

Look under your specific vehicle for:
Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
------------------------------------------------------------
emag,

Is yours a 4WD or 2WD model? seems strange you are reading open on both items. You should be reading something. The ABS sensor is a voltage creating generator to send signals back to the computer.

Sorry again guys. I've gone through my profile settings and unchecked/rechecked the boxes to send me email notifications.
 
#30 ·
Sorry guys. For some reason I stopped getting notifications of replies to my thread or notifications of PM's sent to me. I just responded to the PM from jresch66. The part I used form Rock Auto was WJB WA512326 {#512326} REAR; FWD for $59.79 + shipping.

Look under your specific vehicle for:
Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
------------------------------------------------------------
emag,

Is yours a 4WD or 2WD model? seems strange you are reading open on both items. You should be reading something. The ABS sensor is a voltage creating generator to send signals. back to the computers.

Sorry again guys. I've gone thru my profile settings and unchecked/rechecked the boxes to send me email notifications.
Have same 3 lights on my 2011 Sorento EX - Just had estimate done by Firestone (had to pay $99 to diagnose) Drives rear wheel bearing + sensor needs to be replaced - Quote - $500 ! Ouch

I am not a mechanic, but have dabbled with some small repairs - is this tough to replace myself ?
 
#21 ·
Sorento 2011 V6 EX AWD ABS/Traction control lights on

Hi, I have similar problem with my sorento 2011 V6 EX ALL Wheel drive ABS and traction control light is on in addition to other couple lights related to 4WD, i posted a phote for clarification. I would appreciate if you could share what OBD2 scanner device you use to diagnose the ABS system and traction control for Kia's and what is the final experience conclusion and recommendations.
 

Attachments

#22 · (Edited)
Crazy thing for my adventure is my car would never flag any codes. Only way to see it real time is like another suggested.....to have a computer diagnostics program blue tooth device that you could read while driving and possibly see a code flash temporarily. Read back through my thread and see how I came to my solution. First thing to check as a known Kia problem was the $15 brake switch. Very easy to change. I had my daughter (7 at the time) do it for me (with guidance of course). Good luck and keep us posted.

Roger
 
#26 ·
Crazy thing for my adventure is my car would never flag any codes. Only way to see it real time is like another suggested.....to have a computer diagnostics program that you could read while driving and possibly see a code flash temporarily. Read back thru my thread and see how I came to my solution. First thing to check as a known Kia problem was the $15 brake switch. Very easy to change. I had my daughter (7 at the time) do it for me (with guidance of course). Good luck and keep us posted.

Roger
A friend of mine has a Sorento, and the 3 lights came on today. I've seen the brake switch mentioned in other forums. Did your brake lights stop working with the defective switch? Her brake lights are still working.
 
#23 ·
I took my car to my mechanic, he scanned it and he pulled 2 codes and software update msg.
1st code is break switch and Wheel speed sensor and he advised to take the car to kia dealer to check if there is any software update as this might be the cause for the other codes.

I did as recommended and the dealer checked and confirms no software update required, he also confirms the other 2 codes for break switch and wheel speed sensor replacement.

the estimate was very high and therefor i will be doing the service my self.

938100W000 break switch
919203J400 Cable ASSY ABS
956803J000 Sensor ASSY ABS thanks

I changed the breakswitch but the ABS and Trac Ctrl lights still on.
next i will order the sensor 956803J000 and hope this will solve the problem if not will order the cable too.

Can you please confirm what needs to come off (rotor, rotor assemply, break assemby etc do they come off to get to the wheel sensor).

thanks
 
#24 ·
Thanks everyone for sharing I have the same issue traction control warning light is on. Took it to garage to have it scanned right front wheel sensor jumping code I have awd so it looks easy to replace. I will check the hub out also. I only have an obd2 scanner so no abs support but on a good note I know the mechanic from school so no charge for the scan WOO Hoo! I will let you guys know what I find. Thanks everyone. knowing the code is everything Reguards ronjohn
 
#28 ·
This just started happening with my 2011 Sorento EX, exactly 2 weeks after I had the dealer do a spark plug replacement. Had never happened before. In addition to the 4 warning indicators intermittently being on, when I start the car and the lights are on the speedometer swings wildly sometimes up to 80 mph for a couple of seconds then settles down to 0 as I sit there. Could something have been knocked loose when the tune-up was done? I have an appointment next week to check it out.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top