Sorento Problem

[Eddy724]

I was driving on the turnpike. My engine shut off and would not start. I waited a few minutes and it started up. Then the engine light came on. I went to auto zone to check engine codes and they gave me the following codes.

P0122
P1121
P0113
P0335
P0700

Where do I start. What do those engine codes mean.

[Pacosworld]

Originally Posted by Eddy724

I was driving on the turnpike. My engine shut off and would not start. I waited a few minutes and it started up. Then the engine light came on. I went to auto zone to check engine codes and they gave me the following codes.

P0122
P1121
P0113
P0335
P0700

Where do I start. What do those engine codes mean.

P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor1 Circuit High Input
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor(CKP) Circuit Malfunction
P0700 TCU Request for MIL On/Freeze Frame to ECU via CAN

Strange that you would have all these codes at the same time. Almost seems like a common wiring harness has come loose or the ECU is defective. Did any of these show up as history codes? I would erase all codes and see which come back.

[a9xs]

I would replace crankshaft position sensor and then drive it and see if the light returns. I have had alot of sorentos come into my dealership with crankshaft position sensor problems. It seems to me that the crank sensor may be getting hot and malfunctioning causing the engine to die. I have one sitting in one of my bays right now at work that has a P0335 that needs a crank sensor, just waiting on customer approval because they are out of warranty.

[04SorentoLX]

Originally Posted by a9xs

I would replace crankshaft position sensor and then drive it and see if the light returns. I have had alot of sorentos come into my dealership with crankshaft position sensor problems. It seems to me that the crank sensor may be getting hot and malfunctioning causing the engine to die. I have one sitting in one of my bays right now at work that has a P0335 that needs a crank sensor, just waiting on customer approval because they are out of warranty.

Interesting. Out of warrenty I assume you refer too it having over 100,000? Since it can not be a 1999 model Sorento. One would think the 10/100 POWERTRAIN or FED EMISSIONS Warrenty in the USA would kick in other wise? Just curious.

I would tend to think to clear codes first on this vech, drive then and see if anything comes back. Really alot of codes being thrown on his vech. Sorta gives me the idea that something major tripped a massive system fault. Like yes a loose harness plug. A water puddle. A voltage/battery spike or bad connection while running at speed. Or a loss of earth/ground due again to that water puddle or something else if not that. Anyone of these possible things might have zapped the ECU too then. I would see if vech runs after being cleared before throwing parts at it. Very fast and simple way to find out short order.

[a9xs]

no vehicle had 66K on it, crank sensor is warranty 5year/60k.

[04SorentoLX]

Originally Posted by a9xs

no vehicle had 66K on it, crank sensor is warranty 5year/60k.

I see. Good case could be made and argued for it being done under the FED/CALI Emissions Warrenty. Since it has 66K on it and would fail a EPA Roadside Emissions Test and worse still the CARB one. If you had replied that it had 100K or more I would say yea ok I totally agree and not go down this road. But for 66K I will in all seriousness say the following.

FED Emissions Warr is 8/80
CALI Emissions Warr us 7/70

But if you read the "Kia Warrenty and Customer Information Manual". It clearly states in writting a "Crank Sensor" as well as most anything else in the vech like that gets you a 2/24 FED or 3/50 Cali warrnety not 5/60. So the $256 Crank Sensor has the same legal standing as $25 set of sparkplugs to possibly get your car impounded by the EPA/CARB at 2.1/24,500 or 3.1/50,500 for failing a roadside spot check. And for the record I agree sparkplugs should be treated like brake pads on your 66k vech in your shop but not the Magnetic Crank Sensor. The 8/80 FED EMISS and 7/70 CALI EMISS should stand as it also should for the Cam Sensor and the coil packs and wires and Air Flow Sensor ect.
Fun fact as well is a $10 gas cap and that $356 Air Flow Sensor are the same as well. 2/24 FED and 3/50 CALI. And will get car possibly impounded at a road side spot check. Only three things are covered for 8/80 FED and eight (8) for 7/70 but not all models CALI.

Infact if you live in another state that must conform as many do to Cali CARB standards you make out better if your car is Cali spec and not FED spec. More is covered by mandate. But this goes by model too. Like on a Cali Spec car the intake manifold is covered. But only on the 2.0L and Sulev Spectra and not the 1.8L. Or the V6 Optima and not the 4cyl. And the Sedona and nothing else in KIA lineup.

IMHO using the 8/80 and 7/70 and the average person drives 12,500-15,000 a year.
So the avg person would more often then not get only 5-6 years or less out of these if using mileage limits. Lucky ones would get the 8-7 years as stated. And the unlikey ones would get far less years if they drive alot but would get 80/70.

[miatawnt2b]

Many times, TPS codes are bogus when another sensor dies. If it were my car, I would replace the crank sensor and clear the codes. You're looking for something that would make your car completely quit, and the crank sensor would do just that.

-J

[a9xs]

Originally Posted by miatawnt2b

Many times, TPS codes are bogus when another sensor dies. If it were my car, I would replace the crank sensor and clear the codes. You're looking for something that would make your car completely quit, and the crank sensor would do just that.

-J

thats what i was trying to get at.

[04SorentoLX]

Originally Posted by a9xs

thats what i was trying to get at.

I agree and say too you did not say weather your 66K car in shop was running dieing andthen right away restarting, or then cooling off and restaring as the OP and his car was hense he could be out on road running and his emissions would be looney tunes and very much might fail a ROAD SIDE TEST if it were to NOT die again soon. Or the car quit and is not running at all again and a front yard lawn ornament. Two very seperate things and one being a loophole if not just plain the right thing to do for a customer with 66K and not agreed 100+K. Since FED is 8/80 and CAli is 7/70. Again I said from the start clear codes and drive do not replace parts yet. Since that would tend to take care of your bogus codes issue right? and stop the speculation and $$ of throwing parts at a car. If a CRANK SENSOR code comes back and the car quits then ok you got your answer. If they all (codes) do then it still might NOT be the Crank but the ECM. Or one or more codes might only come back and that would narrow it down. Your way you put in a crank sensor and drive assuming the rest are bogus. My way a crank sensor and only a coil code come back and you then track down if the coil code or the crank code is bogus and put in that. As it might be the coil bad throwing a crank code and you have to put in a coil or fix a pinched wire to it, not a crank sensor. And not both and $$$$$$$$$$ bill.

[miatawnt2b]

Maybe.

The faulty crank sensor may be causing the TPS codes. It's probably not an ECU.
-J