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Drives: 1990 VW Corrado SC 1.8L, 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT, 2005 Kia Spectra EX
Originally Posted by superman_006
Well this car was sitting for a while, the battery died. I replaced the battery and now it wont start. I am getting a P1609- Immobilizer for the only code.
I can resest the code and the car will run for a 1/2 second then throw the code again and quit, it locks me out of the ECU until I clear the code.
Has the car "unlearned" the key? (i also only have one)
Can I by-pass the immobilizer with one of the kits made for the remote starts?
Funny thing is....I read were the key FOB is the part with the immobilizer chip is in it. I havent had one in the car for over a year and I have no idea where it is
What year is this? There is a Tech Times article from 2004 with some info on this. P1609 is just Immobilizer Malfunction. You'll need to scan the BCM for codes for further diagnosis. If there is none stored, then you'll need to view the data for the Immobilizer system and see if there is a valid key shown.
The key, not the FOB, has the immobilizer chip built in it. If my memory is right, there should be a M in the key head.
I dont think the snap-on modis will scan the immobilizer specificly, it will do the obdii codes and a few system test, but thats it. When I try to scan for codes, it will lock me right of the system.... says "check connection". I can clear the codes and goto live data and everything thing seems to work. Then I crank it one time and it sputters, then it shows "check connection". I can go back out to the main screen and rear the pending codes and all I got is P1609. I unplugged the MAF sensor, and then if gives me P1609 and a MAF circut malfuntion code too.
The key does have a "M" on in at the base of the plastic. I also took the lower dash apart where I can access the key switch.... When I unplug the key switch the key symbol will flash 5 times then go off. When its plugged in it will come on for 3 secs or so then go off. Anyone know what theirs is doing when it starts. When I unplug it it doesnt throw any other codes, still just the P1609
OK... I had no idea what you were talking about before with the "tech times" artical before. I found it, I dont think its the key switch part of immobilizer all 8 wires check out oin the i-22 connector according to the TSB for the 2004 models, I think its the BCM because the left turn signals stopped working too..... doesnt work in the hazard or the multi-function switch. I found the wiring diagram in the kia global thing too which I now see how the left turn signal/ immobilizer could be connected though the BCM. The key symbol flashing 5 times shows the key failing (when I had the I-22 connector unplugged)..... the one time on for 3 seconds shows passing. Eventhough the transponder is passing the BCM is telling the ECU its not
Anyone seen problems with the A7 or D20 grounds? or any connector problems at the BCM? Surley this isnt the first amanti with this problem
Last edited by superman_006; 06-20-2011 at 03:47 PM.
Well.... I think I figured it out. It looks like a poorly factory installed windshield was leaking at the base, dripping downing dirrectly on to the top for the BCM. The plugs were corroded and ruff getting un-plugged. Im sure this would have been found earlier if this car wasnt garage kept. But here is what I found when I took the cover off the BCM.
I cleaned this one up and even tried to do a reflow with a heat gun.... with no luck. Anyone know of these are interchangeable ?
In my stereo/AV servicing days (before throw away electronics) I came up with a way to clean boards that were damages by dog pee or immersed in water.(flood)
I would remove the board and any battery supplies... I would then in the sink spray
the original "Fantastic" cleaner all over the board... I then used either an old toothbrush or a new plummer's flux brush to scrub both sides of the board...I then would just rinse the cleaner off the board with clear water... Then would use a jet of compressed air to force the water out from under components mounted to the board.
After that I would use a hair dryer (set on high) to heat the board to an uncomfortably hot temperature to boil away any water that might me under or inside the components.
After that I would repair/replace any originally damaged traces or components and re-install the board...
I saved better than 70% of "unrepairable" units...
The original "Fantastic" cleaner can be "found" in Dollar Stores under the brand name of "Awesome" for just a dollar.
The "green" on the plastic case and PC board is actually copper oxide. This is conductive and will cause all kinds of problems if not removed.
You might try the above procedure...all you got to loose is $1.00 and a little time.
The worst case is you'll have to buy another BCM and have it programed for your car and keys.
Last edited by DavesSpectra; 06-22-2011 at 01:20 AM.
Reason: changed ECM to BCM
There is a "open" spot somewhere in this board, Im going to try to find it, It has to do with the left turn signal circut, I cleaned it with circut board cleaner and with a hard nylon brush and the left turn signal circuts (the front and rear are seprate) is open. Doesnt power on with hazard switch or turn signal. So I quess I can start at A14 and work my way back. The schmatic doesnt show which leg powers the indicator on the dash.
Dog pee? Im not going to ask...
The power amp was located in the bottom of an audio rack... I guess that's the way the dog claimed the gear. I have seen it happen more than once. Also cat hair clogging the vents, fans, or the finned heatsinks.
Another one was this guy's wife watered her "ivy" plant good as it hanging from the ceiling over the stereo rack.
Best one was the BETA VCR that a little kid (3yrs old) thought it was hungry and fed it Chicken nuggets. Then the adult owner put a tape in it and that smashed the nuggets..That machine got "totaled" . Sad as it was only 3mos old.
You learn to be creative when repairing electronics...
btw... when the boards are covered with that clear green paint and a trace goes missing it usually will leave a "shadow" where the trace was located. "Plated throughs" are holes on the board where a trace on the top of the board is brought through to a trace on the bottom. Not uncommon for one of those to "open" when there's corrosion present.
You probably have a damaged driver port (driver IC) and with "OEM" part numbers on the ICs there's little chance you can identify and replace the bad one(s).
There's always the bone yard...
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