Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Massillon, Ohio, USA
Drives: 2007 SpectraLX, 2006 SpectraSX, Kubuntu
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Was the original radio the average run of the mill Optima radio? Some cars have a "higher end" radio like an "Infinity" branded radio. These usually have a secondary "box"/power unit that changes the radio wiring as the speakers connect to the second box. If it's a conventional radio then the only other power connections are MEMORY/BACKUP and the POWER FEED. The rest of the wires feed the speakers.
If it had a higher end radio then all bets are off on conventional wiring...You'll need to find the correct wiring on "kiatechinfo.com"
Have you cut/spliced into the dash wiring? If not and are only using a pre-wired "adapter plug to stripped wires" I'd be looking at your first wiring attempt..
After market radios (Sony/Pioneer/etc) come with fused memory and power wires and the fuse would have blown BEFORE the radio would have SMOKED. Did you cut out the fuses in the power leads in the harness supplied with the new radio?... I believe your first wiring attempt was wrong and you somehow fed 12v into a speaker ....damaging the speaker and the radio. Then replacing the radio and new adapter harness tried to drive the now damaged speaker with the new radio...thus damaging the new replacement radio's amplifier section and blowing the "radio fuse" under the dash in the car's fuse box. When you reinstalled the "old" Optima radio... the fuse in the fuse box was still blown and the original radio won't come on because of it.
(1) Check all of your wiring AGAIN
(2) Check the fuse that protects the radio (and all the others in the fuse box)
(3) Check the original speakers in the car as if 12v was across on of them the voice coil will be damaged and the radio (old or new)will be looking at a dead short on that speaker wire.. The first time you turn it up you WILL damage the radio! A 4 ohm speaker will read approximately 2 ohm DC resistance SO look for one reading 1 ohm (or less) with an ohm (multimeter). Compare all four speaker wires...one will read differently from the other three.
(4) Your strange results "may" be coming from the blown fuse box fuse (or) your wiring attempts... If all else fails REMOVE all your added wiring (replace fuse) and try the door locks, trunk light, etc...
(5) Do NOT remove supplied in line fuses or fuse holders and do NOT replace fuse(s) with higher amperage (A) fuses...even for just a "second". Damage happens in milliseconds. (before the larger fuse can react).
I ran a high end audio/video service company for 20+yrs and am basing my diagnostics and suggestions on what I found in damaged equipment over the years...
If a manufactor could eliminate a fuse and fuse holder they would...to cut costs!