Your Steps to install the Crank Sensor - Kia Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 10:08 PM
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Default Your Steps to install the Crank Sensor

Okay,

I finally did the Crank Position Sensor on my 2004 Optima w/ 2.4L.

Some information I came across may be helpful with this particular engine set up.

This engine and its components are virtually unchanged from 2001 to 2005. So this means that most all engine management parts like the Crank Sensor are going to be the same for all 5 years.

If you look up the parts at your local automotive parts store and you have a 2004-2005 that the parts donít come up on, simply go back to a 2002-2003. This will save you money as you wonít have to go to a dealer and pay their prices.

While the whole process really isnít that bad, the Dual Overhead Cams were a real pain to keep lined up. So keep that in mind if you are gonna tackle this job. You WILL need a second pair of hands when putting the timing belt back on.

I had about 1 hr 20 minutes into the whole process of getting down to the crank sensor. Now remember, Iíve never worked on this car before and there really is a lot to move/remove to get to the whole timing belt and all of itís components. Your time SHOULD be about 1 hour with these instructions and NO problems with getting bolts and nuts loose.

Add about another hour or so to get it all back together and you should be on the road in a total of about 3 hrs!

1) Obviously = Disconnect the battery. ALSO, after removing the battery from the car, take a pair of jumper cables and connect them to the battery cables in the car and ground the car to a metal rod (a butter knife works too) into the ground. This will remove any residual electrical current in the car. Remember, the Crank Sensor is an electrical part!
2) Loosen the lug nuts on the passenger front wheel. 21MM Socket required for stock lug nuts. (DO NOT REMOVE THEM!)
3) Turn the wheels hard right. This will give you more clearance to the crankshaft.
4) Jack up the passenger front wheel so that you have about 4Ē-6Ē of clearance below the front tire. Remember, once you lower the car onto an APPROVED jack stand, there will be less clearance.
5) Remove the tire, place out of the way. Put somewhere safe so it canít be stolen!
6) Now, place a jack under the oil pan near the exhaust pipe and lift about a Ĺ inch.
7) Remove the Plastic Engine cover and the bracket on the left side of the timing belt cover. All bolts use a 10MM socket. Simply loosen the bracket and slide it back out of the way.


8) Remove the Motor Mount next to the Power Steering Pump. There are 2 bolts and a nut near the Timing Belt Cover that must be removed. Then remove the bolt going to the frame. All bolts and nuts are 17MM. You will need a DEEP WELL 17MM for the Nut!
9) Loosen the Alternator/Water Pump belt. The bolt over the pulley needs to be loosened before loosening the bolt on left the side. (NOTE: Once you get a little slack on the side bolt, simply lift it up out of the holder. No need to keep cranking.) Now PUSH the alternator to the engine, this will loosen the belt and remove the belt off the Alt pulley first. There is a bottom bolt, but with a little muscle, the alt should move. A 12MM socket or wrench works fine here. Lots of room to move.
10) Loosen the Power Steering/AC/Tensioner belt by loosening the Tensioner Bolt first. It is on the back side of the tensioner. Once that is done, then loosen the bolt on the side. This one you will have to keep loosening until you can get the belt off. A short 14MM socket and ratchet for the tensioner bolt and a 14MM wrench for the side bolt.
11) Remove the power steering pump bracket. Leave the pump attached to the bracket. There are 2 bolts on the front of the timing belt covers 1 above the other. There are two bolts on the side of the engine block as well. 1 above the other. (NOTE: I ended up removing the Heat shield from the exhaust manifold to gain an extra 1 inch that allowed me to have enough lifting room to break the top mount bolt loose.) The pump housing is very close to the top bolt, so either a CROWS foot or a regular wrench is needed. The bottom bolt is easily handled by a socket and ratchet. All 4 Pump bracket bolts are 14MM and the 3 Heat shield bolts are 12MM. Use the closed end of the wrench on the top bracket bolt by the pump so as not to round the edges.
12) Remove the Water Pump Pulley. There are 4 bolts. (Now, I lifted the engine up quite a bit w/ the jack so that I was able to get to the water pump bolts easily.) A 10MM wrench is all you will be able to use. No real clearance available. There IS a notch in the center hole to help line up the pulley with all for holes.
13) Now itís time to remove the Crank Pulley. (You DO NOT need to remove the Center Crank Bolt if you are NOT replacing the COUNTER BALANCE SHAFT BELT) Just remove the 4 outer bolts. (IF you ARE replacing the Counter Balance Shaft Belt, you WILL NEED an impact wrench and a 22MM socket. Break the bolt loose, then tighten with a ratchet, THEN remove the 4 outer bolts!) (NOTE: There is a very thin roll pin sticking up from the Timing Belt gear and it goes into the Crank Pulley for putting the Crank Pulley in the right position.) If the Crank Pulley wonít move once the 4 bolts are out, simply tap it at the upper / lower / right / left edges until it is loose enough to pull STRAIGHT off. BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THIS PIN. If you do break it, just make sure you line up the hole on the Crank Pulley with where the pin is at on the timing gear. The 4 bolts are 12MM and a ratchet works just fine.
14) Time to remove the Timing Cover bolts. Before lowering the engine again, remove the 4 bolts on the top piece of the cover and take it off. Then lower the engine all the way down till the oil filter touches the frame. DO NOT REST THE FILTER ON THE FRAME! ALWAYS SUPPORT THE MOTOR! Once you lower the engine, there are about 9 or 10 bolts. A 10MM socket and ľ inch ratchet will do the trick.
15) You should now have a clear view of the entire timing belt, pulleys AND the Counter Balance Shaft Belt. The Crank Position Sensor is to the right of the Crankshaft.
16) Now you have A LOT of little things to do BEFORE removing the timing belt and replacing the Crank Sensor.
17) First off, get a simple metal marking pen. I bought a white and a red ink marking pens from Walmart in the Scrap Book section of the Crafts & Sewing department. They are about $2.50 each. THEY WILL COME IN HANDY!
18) Using a 22MM socket and a Ĺ inch breaker bar, simply rotate the engine until you see ALL of the timing marks are lined up. The crankshaft has a metal plate that kind of looks like a bowtie. There is a notch on it that lines up with a little pointer molded into the block. Once this is lined up, check the OIL PUMP pulley and make sure the notch in the metal plate is lined up with a point molded into the block. NOW check the COUNTER BALANCE SHAFT pulley (itís that second belt to the upper left of the crank pulley.) It has a circle on the upper pulley that matches a notch on the block.
19) There is 1 mark each on the CAM SHAFT PULLEYS. The pulley itself has a notch in between two teeth and they match up with a pointer on top of the Valve cover. IF THE CRANK IS LINED UP, but not the Camshafts, simply rotate the crank until the CAMSHAFTS line up, then make sure the other marks are still lined up. Once this is done, the entire engine is in ALIGNMENT. (NOTE: Once you remove the timing belt tensioner, the CAMSHAFTS WILL MOVE!) And the other marks might as well. SO BE PREPARED! Put all the lower marks back on track, beware that the oil pump pulley moves very easy, so keep an eye on it when putting the belt back on.
20) BEFORE REMOVING THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER = Take the white Metal Marking Pen and highlight each timing mark on each pulley AND the marks molded into the block or Valve Cover! Donít forget the Camshafts! If reusing the timing belt, be sure to mark the side of the timing belt too, I put a line all the way across the timing belt at each location, this will help in reassembly. Once all your marks are made, you are ready to remove the timing belt.
21) To remove the Timing Belt tensioner, (it is located above left of the crank pulley and has two bolts holding it in) you need a 12MM socket and I recommend removing the upper bolt first. Now be prepared and keep your fingers clear of the bottom of the tensioner as it will move and may pinch up against the Crankshaft pulley. You wonít hurt the parts, but it may pinch your fingers! Remove both bolts and take out the tensioner. Once you do this, you will see the Tensioner pulley drop and this will loosen the belt. At this time, your CAMSHAFTS WILL MOVE, as well, the lower marks may move too.
22) Check the Timing Belt Tensioner to make sure it is in good working order. You should NOT be able to press down the little plunger sticking out by simply pushing it against the edge of something. If you can move it w/o a TON of force, you will need to replace it. This part is hydraulic, so heat will make it more movable.

Need Help? Let me know. I might be able to answer your question.
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 10:08 PM
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23) HINT: If you are putting a new timing belt on the car, take the new belt and get a hanger or something and hang the belt with something heavy at the bottom so it stretches it out. This will take out any bends in the belt from being in the box it was in holding it. Hang it in the sun or a warm room so it is much more pliable.
24) To remove the Crank Position Sensor, (it is the little black plastic part just to the right of the Crankshaft pulley.) It has two 12MM bolts holding it in place. Once unbolted, simply remove it by following the path it is placed in. Once you get to the outside of the block there are two plastic holders you will need to squeeze from behind to loosen and remove the wire from that location. Keep following the wire up the side of the block and over the valve cover on it’s way back to the firewall. The other end is connected to a metal bracket. First unplug the upper part of the wiring harness and then take a 6” thin long flat screwdriver and pry back the holder piece keeping the bottom part of the plug in place.
25) Once the old wiring is removed, start there and put the bottom plug back into the metal bracket holder, plug in the upper plug and replace the wire all the way down just as you removed it. Push in the two plastic holders and then using a small thin flat screwdriver, flatten out the wiring harness and push the wires back into the little opening between the block and head. Be gentle so you don’t tear or cut a wire.
26) NOW, instead of putting the wire between the tensioner bracket and lower bolt. I routed the wire directly down and underneath the bolt housing instead of putting it where it was originally. (WITH THE WIRE BETWEEN THE TENSIONER BRACKET AND BOLT HOUSING, OVER TIME, IT FLATTENS THE WIRES. I BELIEVE THIS IS CAUSING THE FAILURE OF THE CRANK SENSOR!) (I COULD NOT GET A KIA REP TO CONFIRM THEY KNOW ABOUT THIS)
27) In case you didn’t notice, the crank position sensor has a little slot opening that the “BOWTIE” metal piece has to slide between. So be careful putting this back on and make sure the metal will slide between the opening without hitting any part of the Crank Sensor. You can move the crank back and forth a little to make sure it is not hitting the crank sensor. Just be sure to put it back on the timing mark. Put in the crank sensor bolts and finger tighten them. Loosen up the bolts till they turn easily, then push the sensor AWAY from the crankshaft pulley and tighten both bolts. Only tighten enough to hold the sensor, it is plastic and can break if you tighten too hard. Then you will have to buy a NEW one.
28) Time to replace the timing belt! I will go through 3 scenarios. If you are putting a new timing belt AND new counter balance shaft belt on the car, go to #31. If you are putting on a new timing belt WITHOUT a counter balance shaft belt, go to #29.
29) You will have to remove the Crank Gear Belt which you loosened earlier. It is a 22MM socket.
30) Remove the bolt, then the “Bowtie” metal piece to get to the Counter Balance Shaft Belt. You should be able to remove the belt by sliding up both ends off the pulley’s. (HINT: Take the Counter Balance Shaft Belt and warm it up in a NON WET environment. I have used a dryer w/ the belt in an old towel, or even warmed up the oven to 250 degrees and put it on a towel in there for about 5-10 minutes. Check it A LOT to make sure it doesn’t get too hot. This will make the belt very easy to work with and easier to get back on.)
31) Once you have the Balance Shaft Belt back on, simply replace the “Bowtie” piece and the crank bolt. At this time, simply tighten the crank bolt and tap the ratchet with a hammer a couple of times. This will secure the bolt. Place the timing belt around all the gears and pulleys at this time.
32) To replace the actual timing belt, you WILL need an extra pair of hands. The Camshafts will move and be very tricky to do by yourself. There are tools for dual overhead cams that allow you to lock them in place, but if you find them, they are usually expensive.
33) Make sure all of your bottom timing marks are in place. The Crankshaft, Oil pump and Counter Balance Shaft. As you look at the engine, remember, the belt tensioner will be tightening up the left side of the timing belt. So this means that you will want the Right side of the timing belt to be tight and not moving.
34) (INFO: A help to holding the Camshafts in place is to have 2 17MM wrenches or sockets and ratchets holding the cams in place. You can use pieces of wood or what ever to keep them in the right place. ALSO: when positioning the camshafts, go 2 (TWO) marks forward of the timing mark on the valve cover. This is because when you tighten the tensioner, it will pull the camshafts back into place. There is about a 2 mark (1/2 inch) movement when you tighten the tensioner.
35) BEFORE tightening the tensioner I recommend you have a long (1 foot long) straight edge screwdriver available. You will see that there is a mark on the tongue of the tensioner that the straight edge will fit. Coming up from under the car, beside the crankshaft, place the straight edge of the screwdriver in the slot of the tensioner tongue. From the bottom, push straight up to get the belt at tight as possible. At this time, have someone make sure the timing marks on the camshafts have lined up and that the marks below are also lined up. You may need to do this a couple of times to get them all lined up. Practice is needed.
36) Once lined up, place a pry bar at the top of the tensioner tongue and it will help you hold the tongue up and tight. While holding the pry bar, place the tensioner bolt closest to the crank pulley in place first, then do the other bolt. This will allow you to pry on the bottom of the tensioner to get it in place. Once you have the bolts in place and started, you can release the pry bar. The tensioner will hold everything in place. Simply tighten the bolts with a 12MM socket and then recheck that all of your timing marks are in place.
37) Once you are sure all of your timing marks are lined up, then you are ready to put the car back together and start driving. Just follow the directions in reverse order and button up the job.

I hope that you have been able to use this info as a reliable and easy source for your crankshaft installation.

Need Help? Let me know. I might be able to answer your question.
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#3 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 10:24 AM
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is the process the same or similar for an '06? thanks
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#4 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 04:46 PM
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Just some FYI for any DIYer this cam lock tool is priceless i changed my timing belt and balance belt w/o it and i wish i would have had it, it could have saved ne around 2 hours of fighting with the cams trying to line things up...




Lisle 36880 Dual Overhead Cam Lock Tool

Amazon has it for 28 + free shipping. I'll be ordering mine on payday
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#5 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 01:20 AM
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great write up. but do you really have to do all these steps just to replace the crankshaft position sensor?
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#6 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 10:23 AM
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i called a few shops that were open today, and ill call more come monday, to see who will do it for the best price, just incase i dont want to try and do this fix my self. and so far the best price is $300 bucks. is that a good price? and ive looked every where and there is really no places that i've found/look at that has really any good pics, anyone else have any good leads?

Last edited by justin2004; 03-06-2010 at 01:22 PM.
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#7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 03:53 AM
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Your write up is excelent! Ran into one issue that hope you can assist with. The timing belt tensioner was removed PRIOR to setting allof the timing marks. Ouch! Put it back in place but now very unsure of where all the timing will really be. Can you tell me a way to VERIFY timing "from scratch"? How much should I have to move the crankshaft to be able to check if the alignment is OK after putting the tensioner back in place? Can all of the timing points you listed in steps 18 thru 19 be put in place with the timing belt removed??? It seems like there has to be a way of putting everything in time separately when an engine is built, but is it possible for me to do that or am I just stuck taking it to someone at this point?
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#8 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 03:56 AM
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Are you still available for a question?
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#9 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 05:21 AM
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Great right up. Thanks! BTW, the belt tensioner can be depressed with a vise and insert something into the hole to hold it until installed. I used a small drill bit in the hole.
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#10 (permalink) Old 11-03-2013, 10:53 PM
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One of the most detailed write ups I've ever seen on a car forum.
Great job with the details and the steps.
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