Error P0183 - Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input - Kia Forum
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 07-03-2007, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Error P0183 - Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input


My check engine light is on and I got the error code from the OBD-II reader.
It turned out to be related to the Fuel Temperature Sensor.
After a lot of searching, I was able to find this troubleshooting guide.
It talks about FTS and ECU, but I am not able to find these components anywhere. Does anyone know where I can find a schematic/location of these components?
Also anyone had a similar problem before?


Diagnostic trouble code
No. P0181
Differential of Fuel Temperature and Engine Coolant Temperature at start too large
Diagnostic trouble code
No. P0182
Fuel Temperature Circuit Low Input
Diagnostic trouble code
No. P0183
Fuel Temperature Circuit High Input
[Related items]
1)Open or short to ground between FTS and main relay
2)Open or short to ground between FTS and ECU
3)Short to battery battery between FTS and ECU
4)Short between FTS wires
5)Faulty FTS

Turn ignition to OFF and disconnect FTS connector.
Turn ignition to ON
Measure voltage of FTS signal circuit between FTS harness connector and chassis ground.
1)Specification : Approximately 5V
Is voltage within specification?
Go to step 2.
Open circuit or short circuit to chassis ground between FTS harness connector and ECU connector.
Repair as necessary.
Thoroughly check FTS and ECU for loose, bent, corroded, contaminated, deteriorated or damaged connectors.
Is connection okay?
Temporarily install a known good FTS and check for proper operation.
If problem is corrected, replace FTS.
Repair as necessary.
Return vehicle to original condition. Clear all diagnostic trouble codes. Verify by driving vehicle with SCAN TOOL connected and monitor for pending codes.

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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 02:03 PM
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I have a 2003 Sorento that had the "Check Engine" light on for some time. I had a shop mechanic check the code and it was P0183. I never really had any trouble with the car but the check engine light being on all the time kinda bothered me so I ordered the part. I lifted the right rear passenger seat and removed the cover plate. I disconnected all the electrical connectors and started the engine to see if I could at least drain some of the fuel from the lines. I removed the ground lead from the battery and went back to the top of the fuel pump and started to remove the fuel lines. there seemed to be three -- one had a hose clamp on it and was easy to remove -- the other two had special connectors with what appeared to be push button disconnects, the one on the left had a white push button and when released had no fuel in it. The one on the right had a green push button and when released still had fuel under pressure but I had an old rag to catch and soak up the fuel. I then got the Fuel soaked rag as far away as I could. Removing the fuel pump required undoing 6 or seven screw that held the pump in the tank. When I lifted it out it came up about half way and I had to press my finger on the fuel level sensor to get that to clear the opening. I also had to tip the fuel pump slightly to get the float arm to clear the hole. The fuel pump was full of fuel and some more spilled but I had another rag to catch that. I dumped the fuel in the pump into a storage gas can I had.

The resistor/sensor is mounted near the bottom of the fuel pump and pops out of the holder fairly easy. There is a plug at the other end of the sensor wires that can re released with pressure on a push-to-release tab. The wires are held in a wire holder that is on the side of the pump housing and it has a slot so the old wires can be slipped out and the new ones slipped in. I used the end of a flat blade screwdriver to help get the new wired into place. I just reversed the pump removal procedure to re-install the pump, reconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors, I re-installed the hatch cover and reconnected the battery. I'm glad to say all is well now and the part cost me $39 plus shipping.
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