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my speed sensor went out about a week after the crank senor was fixed too. weird. autozone had it for 60 bucks so its not too bad. try tightening you belt a bit more.
Did your optima throw a code ?? I have an 02 magentis that chewed the timing belt also replaced both belts but now its hard starting when it does it run fine no check engine lite but a major bogg when i give it gas especially on the road almost feels like its being starved for gas dont have a fuel pressure gauge at our shop but it does get gas on cranking customer had fuel pump out maybe they disturbed something I flushed the injectors switched cam sensor and mass air flow still the same any ideas ???
Today I checked the timing It was fine so going with my gut feeling i pulled out the fuel pump to have a look seems the customer had his father look at it prior to bringing it to us when it wouldn't start not knowing that the timing belt was screwed anyway he cut a small hole in the plastic pressure side pickup tube resulting in a incorrect fuel delivery pressure replced the pickup tube and pump now its perfect
I have been reading through this thread and was so excited. My Optima has been acting up something fierce for a while now and the check engine light came on a little over 2 weeks ago. I took him up to get the error code and it was P0335. So I looked here. I found all the information I needed to replace the crank position sensor and only needed to go out and buy the part. But when I got into the car tonight, the CEL was off! After almost 3 weeks.
Now you need a tiny history on the car. He's been acting up for a while, mostly with the battery. The battery was bought new in December 07 because he wouldn't hold a charge. Everything was great for most of this year! A little over 3 months ago I lost my job, so he sits at home a lot now, except for when I go to night classes 3 evenings a week. The problem is, once he started sitting, the power problem came back. If he sits for more than a day, he'll be dead when I go to start him. If he's driven for 1-2 hours, then he'll start fine for a couple days, then struggles by the 3rd day. I live only 10 minutes from my college and, with the nights getting longer and having to use the headlights and such more, he doesn't get the charge he needs for the next day. So if I want to go somewhere the next day, he has to be jumped.
Now back to the main point. When the CEL showed up and I did my research, I thought I had found what was wrong with him at last! But now that the light is off after being jump started tonight, I'm wondering if that was a false error. Or if the part still needs to be replaced. And if I replace the part, will it fix the power drain.
Any help would be appreciated. I can't afford much because I have been unable to find work, and this is the only car I have. So I need to keep him running.
the crank sensor is a part that does go on these cars. sometimes suddenly, sometimes a little at a time. my last one that went went slowly which i had never happen before. my last 2 went out immediately, granted the timing belt was one reason. it would buck ever so slightly while driving. bucking got worse until the car quit while driving. new sensor and 1hr of my time and i was back up and running. your car sounds liek it could be an alternator issue. are you able to check the voltage output while running? you could also have a battery draw while the car is parked. while the crank sensor is a concern that you should be worring about i dont think its causing your problem. first thing to do is check the voltage of the battery while car is not running, then again when the car is running at about 2k rpms while it is in park. if you dont know how let me know and ill walk you through it. the meter itself is 5-10 bucks at walmart.
We did this test on him last December, just before replacing the battery. At the time, the voltage output was normal while the car was running. But if I remember correctly, it was reading unusually while the car was off, because I remember we tried pulling individual fuses one at a time to try and cut off where a possible power drain was coming from. But we had no luck finding anything. Now, the car's gotten worse.
Last night when I went to class he had to be jumped from the house. Typically he does okay the rest of the night. But when I went out to start him and head home, he was dead as could be. Thankfully, a friend came over and jumped me, but that's when I noticed something odd. When we packed the cables up and I got in to leave, I turned on the headlights and everything dimmed almost to the point of being off, and the car started to strain and tried to die again. But a moment later it all perked back up. After the jump, the air was automatically running, and everything dimmed slightly when I turned it off. I noticed as I was driving home that anytime I would roll a window up or down, the headlights would dim slightly for a moment. This sounds like typical impending alternator death behavior, I think.
There have been no more signs of the CEL since it went off. But he still vibrates, drags, and kicks while being driven. I suppose if the alternator is dying, that would be the cause for the car always being dead as well. I still have yet to be able to find anything that could be draining the battery, but with all the wiring in vehicles these days, a short could be anywhere!
im thinking the alt. is an issue. december is along time ago to check things. it sounds like your alternator is going or has a loose wire. my 02 has a bad alt in it now. it still charges but has a bad bearing so it has a vibration to it. if i leave the car alone for a few weeks the alt seizes up so i have to take it off and beat it with a hammer. still works though but is a noticable vibration. speaking of that have you checked your balance belt lately. it can break teeth off and get lodged in the crank sensor. that could be why you had the code for a short time.
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