Kia-Forums.com is owned and operated by AutoForums.com, Inc. Kia-Forums.com is an ehthusiast website dedicated to the discussion of Kia Vehicles, Kia Family Cars and Kia SUVs. Kia-Forums.com is completely unofficial and is not endorsed in any way by KIA Motor Corp, its affiliates, or its subsidiaries. KIAź is a registered trademark of KIA Motors Corp. in Canada, the United States, and in other countries around the world. No challenge to the status of KIAź's registered trademarks is intended.
My 2002 Rio gearshift is very hard to move. I called the dealer and was told that this model is prone to corrosion buildup and the corrosion has to be scraped off and the shifter cable re-greased.
I'm currently off work with a disability and money is tight so I can't afford to pay an arm and a leg for repairs to a high-mileage car that has no re-sale value.
Does anyone know where this corrosion buildup is located and is it easily accessible for a reasonably competant DIY guy to remove the corrosion ?
It would have to be auto I would think. 5 spds are all rod shifted.
__________________
2004 Kia Rio - Garrett GT2560R - $1100
8.9:1 forged pistons - $500
20 pounds of boost - flick of switch
Blowing the doors off of almost everything it pulls up beside.
PRICELESS
I have had this same problem especially after the car sits for a couple of days. Mine is an automatic. Hope someone has an idea on how to solve this. BTY mine is a 2003.
I fixed it myself......at the front of the engine on the RH side is a vertical shaft that attaches to the gearshift cable and enters the transmission below the engine. I sprayed the entry point into the transmission and also the support bushing 6" above it with WD40 and let it sit for an hour.
I then turned the ignition key to ON but did not start the engine and moved the transmission lever backwards and forwards numerous times while my daughter kept spraying more WD40 onto both bushes......it now shifts like new ( Kia garage told me it takes 1 1/2 hours labour to fix it ).
This sounds encouraging Let us know if this is still workomg after a few days or a week. In the meantime I'll try the same fix. I'm not to sold on WD-40 but nothing ventured nothing gained--whatever works.
PB Blaster works even better because it breaks down rust and corrosion. A dealer reccomending a teardown to remove the cable and regrease, sounds like a con job, besides only one end is exposed to the elements, transmission side, I use PB Blaster at my shops, stripped, frozen, and broken bolts are a very rare occurance. PB has the best A.P. Penetrating Oil/ lube going. By the way, a good transmission tech would have that cable swapped out in 20 minutes.
Spray the exposed end and then use the red precision tube (on the side of the can) to spray into the cable sheathing, and repeat a few days later.
Hey Wrench glad you hopped in here on this, I've used Blaster years ago and had forgot all about it (good stuff). Will get a can and try this. Thanks a bunch.