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Old 05-30-2008, 11:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
Planeguy
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Default Clutch - High Functioning DIY'r; 2001 Rio

My daughter called today with news of a bad clutch in her 2001 Rio. I don't have the car in front of me, so I want to ask a quick question.

Is a clutch R&R on a 2001 Rio do-able for a high functioning do-it-yourselfer (it's been decades since my previous clutch)?

If it is a DIY job, does the engine come out, or is it easier to remove the transaxel? (remember, I don't presently have car in front of me,,,,yet)

Thanks in advance for any assistance!!
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Old 05-31-2008, 01:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
2004riotuner
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Remove the transaxle from the bottom of the car. Support the engine from the lift hook on the drivers side of the valve cover as the only mount left holding the engine will be on the passenger side. Remove the axles for both sides of the transmission. Undo the starter, crank sensor wire, reverse switch wire, Vehicle speed sensor wire. There is 6 or 7 bolts in the bell housing attached to the engine, once those are undone there is a cross member under the transmission undo the 2 bolts in the front holding it to the rad support and undo the 2 at the back mounted to the unibody. Be sure to support the cross member with a jack as the weight of the transmission will now rest on the input shaft until wiggle it out of the old clutch.
I think I have covered everything.. It will be straight forward once you see it. And it's nice to have a 2nd pair of hands if you are laying on you back doing it with jack stands holding the car up.
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2004 Kia Rio - Garrett GT2560R - $1100
8.9:1 forged pistons - $500
20 pounds of boost - flick of switch
Blowing the doors off of almost everything it pulls up beside.
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Old 05-31-2008, 02:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Wow, that's a great summary! I'll assume there isn't any exhaust components needing to be disconnected?!? Thanks again
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Old 05-31-2008, 02:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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To tell you the truth I don't remember, but I also don't think so at the same time.. If I am not mistaken the exhaust is under the oil pan and out of the way. Like I had said though, I wrote out what I could remember but once you see it and start taking it apart it, you'll notice the things I have missed if anything.
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2004 Kia Rio - Garrett GT2560R - $1100
8.9:1 forged pistons - $500
20 pounds of boost - flick of switch
Blowing the doors off of almost everything it pulls up beside.
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Consumables??

OK, thanks again. One quick question (if you can recall); what type of oil spillage might I expect?

I'll assume there will be some discharge when the drive shafts are removed, but curious if there will be more??

I only ask because I live in an environmentally sensetive area and though I'll take every precaution, knowing when to expect a bit of an "oil bath" would be handy to know in advanced to have drip pans available.

.........and thanks again!!
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Engine removal option?!?

Quick question; to do a clutch on a 2001 Rio, can the engine be removed as opposed to dropping the tranny??

The reason I ask is because the area I intend to work from has overhead rafters perfect for pulling a motor, whereas I'll be on my back under jacks etc, if I drop the xmission/Gbx.

If it is do-able, are there advantages or disadvantages of either method??

Thanks again
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:19 AM   #7 (permalink)
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There will be spillage of transaxle fluid, drain the tranny first, I didn't and made a big mess. I smelled like "eau de shop floor" for the rest of the day

I pulled the entire engine/tranny out of my '02 a while back and i'm glad I did. But I changed the clutch, all timing components, water pump and most of the seals at the same time. You don't need to in order to change a clutch. Follow 2004riotuner's lead and you'll be fine. I had the benefit of having a forklift and it made life easy

Do remove the flywheel and check the basepan and rear main seal, If the rear main it at all wet, change it. Now is the time to do it. Mine were leaking.
The flywheel is held on with 8 bolts, 17 MM - 12 point heads. Bit of a pain to get them out, they are tight all the way out and covered in red threadlocker. But do remove it and inspect the rear main and seals.

Change the pilot bearing regardless if it's good or not. Mine was shot.

Pressure wash the bellhousing if you have access to a washer. Sand all rusted parts, especially the shaft for the release bearing and lube it well with a high quality synthetic grease or lithium grease. Just make sure everything moves smoothly.

While you're at it, inspect the timing belt
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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whoops, you posted while I was writing...

I pulled the entire assembly out through the top. Working alone it took me 14 hours for everything but I really took my time. It's been a long time since i've done this kind of work to a car. Have a read.

Streetkiaz.com - Forum - 1st Gen Rio / 2001-02 - Engine is back in - a few concerns for first gen rio owners.
Streetkiaz.com - Forum - 1st Gen Rio / 2001-02 - hoping to pull the engine this weekend...
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Old 05-31-2008, 03:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks; but I'm a bit confused; I must admit this will be the first FWD car I'll be tearing into, and,,,,,I don't have it right here in front of me to answer some of these questions:

1) I'm confused about pulling the engine through the top. "If" I pulled the engine out the top, would I be able to do the clutch replacement without dropping the tranny? Is it easier or much harder to do it this way?? (I looked for a manual this afternoon and none are available; I hope there is something on-line)

2) Axels seem to be a big issue, and I'm not sure where they would be disconnected at. Is there a flange that get seperated, or is it a yoke-type set-up near the brake disk area (or inboard of the disks)??

Thanks again
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Old 05-31-2008, 05:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There is a site online for all this information:
Kia Global Information System (KGIS)
register and log in...


"IF" you are going to pull the engine, then you're taking out both engine and tranny at the same time. Would be very difficult to pull just one or the other through the top... It's not that hard really, I took a long time cause this was my first front wheel drive pull as well and I was nervous. If I had to do it again, it would only take a few hours... I just had no real way of getting the car high enough "safely" to drop the tranny through the bottom although it's doable.

I don't know about you, but I personally don't like working in tight spaces or on my back. Can't be bent over working for too long either. And working with a forklift to raise and lower the assembly was a dream

Basically if you want to pull the engine/tranny out, disconnect everything electrical and keep a detail of what goes where.

I took the hood off, took the exhaust manifold and the cat right out of the car and took out the radiator assembly. The battery and support pan goes as well. You should get a new exhaust gasket for the manifold tho, but I could have reused mine.

Release the tranny mounts with the 2 nuts on each, release the engine mount.

You'll have to lift the assembly, bring the engine forward a bit to clear the intake manifold then all the way out.

The drive shafts are a pain in the arse, they don't just pop out, they have to be forced. There's a C-clip around the spline of the inner CV shaft. I got lucky and popped them with a crowbar and a whole lot of cussing (but like I say, drain the tranny first).

The outer CV joints can be more painful but you don't need to pull them to do this job.
I just loosened the upper strut tower nuts a little.
Remove the bolt holding the lower control arm to the body (didn't have to drop it from the hub assembly).
Remove the outer tie rod.
The strut and hub assembly can swing allowing room to remove the inner CV from the tranny now. Pry them out, wrap the ends carefully and that's it.

Changing the clutch is dead simple. Changing the seals can be a challenge.
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