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Are there any special tools or tricks to changing the front brake pads on a 2002 Kia Rio ? Are these pads available at the local parts store or are they a "stealship" item only ?
Mine are starting to make a slight rubbing noise and I need to change them ASAP, that is if I can, and this depends on your replies.
Thanks.....
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2002 Kia Rio, 4/d, auto...
S. TX
KiaMech said the Sorento brakes are easy to fix, so I would imagine that the Rio isn't all that difficult either. Send him a PM if no one else replies?
Fronts are easy...I haven't done them on my Kia yet...but usually all you'll need is a jack, metric sockets, a screwdriver, and a 6 inch C-clamp to do the job.
You'll jack up the side you'll be working on first, remove the wheel, compress the c-clamp to give yourself room to pull the caliper off (one side touching the brake pad...other side touching the backside of the caliper), remove the two bolts to the caliper (i'm thinking they are either 10mm or 13mm), if they are "slide-in" (like Nissans and I'm pretty sure Kias are the same) there will be a small, thin wire-like retainer that should be removed, slide the old pads out (thus the need for the screwdriver...they may not slide out easy, and might need a couple chisel hits from the screwdriver), replace with the new, put things back together the same way you took them out. Start the car up, and pump the brake pedal 8-10 times to build up the hydrualic pressure in the fronts...take it around the block a couple times to be sure you didn't screw something up...then you should be ready to go.
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Elwood: It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark and we're wearing sunglasses
Jake: Hit it
You shouldn't need rotors unless it has gone metal to metal. You really need the rotor thickness measured with something like a mico-meter (there are minimum levels) unless it's obviously grooved & marked. Even then, as an emergency measure you could leave them on temporarily, but that'll mean probably sacrificing that set of pads as they'll wear "into" the grooves. Good luck.
And then the rotors and pads glaze and your brakes will continuiously squeek..
Dan
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2004 Kia Rio - Garrett GT2560R - $1100
8.9:1 forged pistons - $500
20 pounds of boost - flick of switch
Blowing the doors off of almost everything it pulls up beside.
PRICELESS
Originally posted by Esses@Mar 8 2006, 02:47 AM You shouldn't need rotors unless it has gone metal to metal. You really need the rotor thickness measured with something like a mico-meter (there are minimum levels) unless it's obviously grooved & marked. Even then, as an emergency measure you could leave them on temporarily, but that'll mean probably sacrificing that set of pads as they'll wear "into" the grooves. Good luck.
No rotors? Really? Nice. I'll check them with my micrometer, I think it was 21mm? IDK, it says on the rotor what the minimum thinkness is. Interesting though.
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2001 Rio, Blue
Cruise Control
Pioneer head unit (need new speakers... OEMs are shot)
Bear in mind that pad/rotor wear is depedent on driving style, pad hardness, manual or auto etc etc. Ford Australia had a problem a few years ago with Falcons going through (soft) pads quickly - 90% of Falcs are autos - so changed over to "metal" pads. Guess what? Rotors started karking it VERY quickly. OOPS! My old auto Falcon once wore through a set of soft pads in 10 000 km (6 000 miles) but would get 25 000 km out of metals. My Toyota Hiace (on standard pads, first the originals then an Australian brand) would do 50 000 km per set regularly & was still on it's original rotors at 700 000 km when I sold it!
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