OK boys and girls, I just finished changing the timing belt on my daughter's 02 Rio. Many thanks for all the advice in this thread, but I gotta say, here are a few ommisions in the instructions provided here and the online Kia shop manual. Figured I'd throw some tips out there while it's still fresh in my mind. Again, this applies to the 02 Rio, other years/miles may be different.
For starters, air tools help big time. An impact wrench to get the crank pully off, and an air ratchet to get to the bolts that have no room to turn a wrench. Also, blowing the grit and grime out of the timing belt area before munting the new belt is probably a good idea.
Remove the washer fluid tank and loosen the power steering fluid tank (no need to disconnect hoses) to make more room. Mine has AC which made access a real pain, I think it would be a much more pleasant job on a non AC car.
As mentioned above, the right motor mount has to come out. Support the engine with a jack. You'll need a deep socket (forget what size) to get the two bolts off where it connects to the engine. To get the long bolt out of the rubber doohicky, do NOT attempt to turn the nut on the left side. Hard to get a wrench on and easily stripped. Put a big ol' wrench on the bolt head side to loosen it.
When removing the belt off the alternator, you won't be able to get a wrench on the bolt that removes tension off the alternator (what idiot engineer designed THAT!). So after loosening the alternator mounting nuts, pry the alternator out with a long screwdriver or pry bar, then you can just loosen up that tensioning bolt by hand and remove it. Use the pry bar technique to put tension back on the belt when you re-install.
There's an access panel in the right wheel well. This has to come off to get access to the lower timing belt cover bolts and the crank pulley. Turn the front wheels hard right to make room. The panel is held on with one bolt and 3 cheezy fasteners. The fasteners look like phillip screws but they're not. You pop out the center section of the fastener with a thin screwdriver then pull it out. I destroyed 2 of them in the process, but you can get more at any auto parts store.
The timing chain cover comes off in 3 pieces, not 2. One at the top and 2 at the bottom.
Impact wrench to get the crank pulley bolt off. But once the pulley is off you'll need that bolt back in to turn the engine to line up the timing marks. I used a little pipe fitting I had laying around to act as a spacer between the bolt head and crank surface. This is necessary to make clearance for the keying pin in the crank (it didn't seem to want to come off).
To remove tension on the timing belt, loosen the bolt on the tensioner pulley then remove the other small pulley. After the belt is off you can then remove the tensioner pulley.
I lined up the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys perfectly before removing the belt, but when the belt came off the right cam pulley sprung half a tooth or so backward. It was like a cam lobe was acting against a valve spring or something, the right cam pulley would not stay with the timing mark lined straight up, it kept springing back. So when I put the new belt on I re-aligned the other cam pulley and the crank pulley off by about the same amount. It was very hard to tell if I had it right or if I might have been a tooth off somewhere. Car runs great now so luckily I got it right.
Fan belts are cheap and these are a pain in the butt, so I changed them out while I was at it.
That's about it. Thanks again to all for the advice, my kid's car is hopefully good for another 60K miles now.