DIY Timing Belt - WARNING Interference Engine - Service Interval - Page 6 - Kia Forum
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post #51 of 105 (permalink) Old 11-25-2009, 09:39 PM
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3. About how much should I expect to pay for the full belt kit? Shucks OK, or is there benefit to buying it from a Kia dealer?
Without searching up the parts a new replacement Gates belt is going to run around $40/50 bucks, tension springs and idler pully around $60/70 bucks. Some people claim to change the water pump while in this deep but I've opted to wait till 120,000 miles or next belt change. I also would change the accessory belts tho and that cost is minimal. All in all you should get out for less than $150 bucks. This is using Auto Zone, Adavance Auto, O'Rielly, ect for parts.

BTW I would highly recommend the Gates or Dayco over the KIA OEM belt.

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post #52 of 105 (permalink) Old 11-27-2009, 01:57 PM
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I am about to get the timing belt changed on my 03 Kia Rio Cinco. My car has 71,500 miles on it. I got the car used 2 years ago, and still have 2 years of payments to make on my car. Thank goodness that I just heard that needs to be replaced. That was the reason why I decided to join this forum. Anyways, I was wondering if it would be O.K. to just replace the belt. I would rather not get the entire assembly package and pay $70 extra for that, if it is not needed.
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post #53 of 105 (permalink) Old 11-27-2009, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by khptown View Post
I am about to get the timing belt changed on my 03 Kia Rio Cinco. My car has 71,500 miles on it. I got the car used 2 years ago, and still have 2 years of payments to make on my car. Thank goodness that I just heard that needs to be replaced. That was the reason why I decided to join this forum. Anyways, I was wondering if it would be O.K. to just replace the belt. I would rather not get the entire assembly package and pay $70 extra for that, if it is not needed.
I would get the kit which includes the belt and rollers, and assess the water pump and if it feels smooth then do it at the next TB change.

Quality and not quantity counts.

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post #54 of 105 (permalink) Old 11-28-2009, 09:09 PM
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OK boys and girls, help me out here. Have any of you actually done a timing belt change on a Rio? I poked around under the hood of my daughter's 2002 today, doing a tune up and other assorted tasks. I gotta say, those timing belt covers look like they'll be a BITCH to get to. I could barely squeeze a hand between the engine and right fender well, especially with all the AC plumbing in the way. Plus it looks like the motor mount is right in between the two timing belt covers, how am I going to get a belt around that?

So I ask again, do mechanics typically pull the engine to get at all this? Or can it be done on the car? Is it as tight and difficult as it looks? What about that motor mount? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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post #55 of 105 (permalink) Old 11-28-2009, 10:38 PM
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post #56 of 105 (permalink) Old 11-29-2009, 06:59 AM
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To make some room. You have to take the left engine mount bolts off. Then use a trolley jack with a flat piece of wood on top of it to lift the engine up by 3 to 4 inches to give you the extra room to get there. The piece of wood so that the weight of the engine is distributed on wider surface area.
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post #57 of 105 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 05:46 PM
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OK boys and girls, I just finished changing the timing belt on my daughter's 02 Rio. Many thanks for all the advice in this thread, but I gotta say, here are a few ommisions in the instructions provided here and the online Kia shop manual. Figured I'd throw some tips out there while it's still fresh in my mind. Again, this applies to the 02 Rio, other years/miles may be different.

For starters, air tools help big time. An impact wrench to get the crank pully off, and an air ratchet to get to the bolts that have no room to turn a wrench. Also, blowing the grit and grime out of the timing belt area before munting the new belt is probably a good idea.

Remove the washer fluid tank and loosen the power steering fluid tank (no need to disconnect hoses) to make more room. Mine has AC which made access a real pain, I think it would be a much more pleasant job on a non AC car.

As mentioned above, the right motor mount has to come out. Support the engine with a jack. You'll need a deep socket (forget what size) to get the two bolts off where it connects to the engine. To get the long bolt out of the rubber doohicky, do NOT attempt to turn the nut on the left side. Hard to get a wrench on and easily stripped. Put a big ol' wrench on the bolt head side to loosen it.

When removing the belt off the alternator, you won't be able to get a wrench on the bolt that removes tension off the alternator (what idiot engineer designed THAT!). So after loosening the alternator mounting nuts, pry the alternator out with a long screwdriver or pry bar, then you can just loosen up that tensioning bolt by hand and remove it. Use the pry bar technique to put tension back on the belt when you re-install.

There's an access panel in the right wheel well. This has to come off to get access to the lower timing belt cover bolts and the crank pulley. Turn the front wheels hard right to make room. The panel is held on with one bolt and 3 cheezy fasteners. The fasteners look like phillip screws but they're not. You pop out the center section of the fastener with a thin screwdriver then pull it out. I destroyed 2 of them in the process, but you can get more at any auto parts store.

The timing chain cover comes off in 3 pieces, not 2. One at the top and 2 at the bottom.

Impact wrench to get the crank pulley bolt off. But once the pulley is off you'll need that bolt back in to turn the engine to line up the timing marks. I used a little pipe fitting I had laying around to act as a spacer between the bolt head and crank surface. This is necessary to make clearance for the keying pin in the crank (it didn't seem to want to come off).

To remove tension on the timing belt, loosen the bolt on the tensioner pulley then remove the other small pulley. After the belt is off you can then remove the tensioner pulley.

I lined up the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys perfectly before removing the belt, but when the belt came off the right cam pulley sprung half a tooth or so backward. It was like a cam lobe was acting against a valve spring or something, the right cam pulley would not stay with the timing mark lined straight up, it kept springing back. So when I put the new belt on I re-aligned the other cam pulley and the crank pulley off by about the same amount. It was very hard to tell if I had it right or if I might have been a tooth off somewhere. Car runs great now so luckily I got it right.

Fan belts are cheap and these are a pain in the butt, so I changed them out while I was at it.

That's about it. Thanks again to all for the advice, my kid's car is hopefully good for another 60K miles now.
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post #58 of 105 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 02:51 AM
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I will be doing timing belt job on my friend's rio pretty soon. I am just wondering if there's any tricky part. her rio is 03 1.6L engine, and do I really have to remove the engine mount as well? I don't have any air tools, so how should I tackle the crank pulley bolt?

Thanks!
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post #59 of 105 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ForSHO View Post
I will be doing timing belt job on my friend's rio pretty soon. I am just wondering if there's any tricky part. her rio is 03 1.6L engine, and do I really have to remove the engine mount as well? I don't have any air tools, so how should I tackle the crank pulley bolt?

Thanks!
I did it without any air tools BUT I did need to buy an electric impact wrench for the crank pulley bolt.

The tricky part?...... they whole thing! Get familiar with kiatechinfo.com. It's your best source for info.
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post #60 of 105 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 04:39 AM
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Why worry about timing belt--Another example

These photos of a 2004 Rio 1.6L show the extent of damage that occurs when the timing belt fails even at low speed. This vehicle had just started moving from a complete stop at an intersection when it failed. According to the owner there was a sudden loss of power with no abnormal noise. It had about 80,000 miles on the original factory belt which had never been inspected, surprising because the owner did keep up with other regular maintenance. The owner was lulled into a false sense of security because the owner's manual for California vehicles indicates that the belt should be replaced at 100,000 miles, although I believe every Kia dealer will tell you otherwise.

Photos show the missing teeth on the timing belt (it did not break apart; the general wear and brittle condition can be seen); The head with two broken exhaust valves on #3 and all other exhaust valves bent, and bent intake valves on #1 and #3; The damaged #3 piston. Not shown are three vertical scratches along the entire length of the #3 cylinder bore.
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