Okay, my car is running of course and I am driving it,.....I believe what part was bad was the MAF sensor, there had been a code three weeks before breakdown and I used maf sensor cleaner then and later there was no code for maf sensor confusingly,.....something that had less than 5000 miles and had been replaced previous. I replaced the Idle Air Control and the MAF sensor upon completion of the timing belt/rollers/water pump replacement, had replaced the chewed up crankshaft sensor, the camshaft sensor and the knock sensor(torqued to spec), and it would still do same thing,. so the maf sensor and idle air control sensor replaced and now runs.
I have several issues, one old,...where three years ago I noticed for some reason an indication of moisture in the oil, at the oil fill cap, like now that back then the engine had sat around not used for a long time, months, the milky substance but clear dipstick oil,...so like last time, I put bars stop leak in the coolant system and maybe it is now plugged off like last time, IF that was what it needed or condensation didn't just happen to a car sitting around for months, I mean, there is no fog out the tailpipe, and it don't appear worth worrying about, I hope. I have not installed the new header by magnaflow yet.
Anyway, I keep on getting a IDLE Air control code when my car suddenly, after getting warm, at a stop light for instance the engine idles down, the engine wants to stumble and then evens out,...the code says it is that of "idle air control valve cycling faster than expected",...haha, dunno. I mean, it was a hard part to get off, had to use the cross tip style 3/8" attachment cause they made sure you can't get a regular socket on the second inner bolt, for some reason. I mean, maybe the $16.50 new idle air control valve is no good, or too cheap made. The new maf sensor, don't get me started, it was loose in the air box hole needing increased in size with electrical tape, and one of the bolt holes had to be opened up a bit cause with a drill bit pushed sideways more inward, meaning the holes were too far outward by a little bit, a $25 part, off ebay, where thge autozone part would be $110, ....I had no choice in the matter than to order a cheap replacement part.
The whole thing, I don't know why the new idle air control valve code is happening, ....will update if anything bad happens. Hopefully I won't have to remove the head, for leaking head gasket, I mean, I figure it would be best to just replace the head,...that is, if the leakage came from the head gasket area, and not the block...They make a substance called block seal, you drain the coolant and run this stuff with water for a time, ....I'll do that if I have to, I need this car, I can't have it down anymore, my truck is untrustworthy and needs some fuel system diesel fuel parts installed.
I have a tps and a map sensor, and a purge valve I need to put on, I mean, the tps shows working, the map on the car is original and could do with replacement, and the purge valve I will replace too asap. I hope the idle air control valve code doesn't keep happening and I get desparate and install the old IAC valve, but cleaner, that would be stupid in a way. I do have a downstream O2 sensor for $22 I bought, but the code scanner tool shows that both O2 sensors work.
The header, I am afraid to start tearing into the car again until I fix up the aforementioned chevy diesel truck I have with problems, after that, well, I won't be afraid to tear into the kia. I mean, with fresh synthetic oil, and plans for regular oil changes of synthetic oil, I want alot of miles out of that engine.