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Hello all, I have been inherited a kia sportage. It is a 2000 5spd 4wd with 50k miles(which is low imo). My current car is a 96 acura integra 150k miles but runs like a champ! I am an active member on hondatech and other forums, and hopefully ill be active on here too.
I have a problem though, still learning about these cars and did a lot of research but hoping someone can help me here.
-hard to start, but starts with a few steps on the gas
-the idle is kinda rough and low, around 600 rpm
-The major issues is if I gas the car ANY amount(whether to 1000 rpm or 4000 rpm) and let off the gas the rpms will drop so low for a couple seconds causing the car to shake but slowly recover( I can prevent this by gassing it a little but that's not how its suppose to be), sometimes if I drive and let off the gas the rpms will drop so low and the car stalls/dies, although when revving the motor sounds normal. When holding the rpms at 1500 the car seems fine, the trouble is at idle
Keep in mind this car has had minimal maintenance from I know of. I thought since it has such low miles it would run fine but I guess the age got to it
So far I replaced/maintained
-fuel filter ( which was a pain to remove with the disconnect tool)
-valve cover gasket
-cleaned throttle plate
My ideas could be that the coilpack/wires could be bad, not sure because I usually deal with distributors
As soon as I wash this car ill upload some pics! because it really is still nice
Also a video of the idle and such
I appreciate any input that will help this car run like a champ!
Poor grounds affect Sportages too, so would recommend cleaning up ground points: battery terminals, battery neg. to ground tray, ground tray -> engine strap (wire)..
And would recommend checking voltages at the battery, battery pos. to engine ground, pass. cabin fuse box (pos.) to frame ground, you should be reading within .5 volt vs. direct at battery, if not, re-check condition of grounds..
Poor pin tension on the Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor can also make the idle go low - inspect and reseat the ECT sensor connector on the right side of the thermostat housing block,
I'd also visually inspect the MAF, there should be 3 sensor vanes inside, all equal length, do not touch the vanes / handle carefully.. would spray the MAF sensor vanes a few times to clean, letting dry between each cleaning, use CRC-brand MAF cleaner (do NOT use carb/throttle body/brake cleaner),
And inspect the PCV hose for any cracks, make sure all hoses and the resonator on the Intake Plenum are tight, and check all vacuum hoses and ports on the Intake Manifold:
there is a 4x4 vacuum hose port on the back of the intake manifold, if 2wd the port should be capped, if 4x4 the hose should be checked, connects to the metal line running along the back of the motor -> over to the 4x4 solenoid mounted on the drivers fender well on US models.
If you removed the Throttle body previously when doing the spark plug change, would also check around the perimeter of the throttle body, to make sure the metal gasket is not misaligned: it's easy for the gasket to slip when installing -> if the metal gasket is not aligned, will cause idle / illegal air issues.
Thank you Cruise for the help.
I inspected all the vacuum hoses and they seem fine. I also replaced the pcv so it should be good. Visually the maf seems clean but I will clean it.
The car is throwing a CEL, but when I connect my scanner it say no cels stored
One thing though is that the radiator seems like it has rust particles so the "coolant" looks like mud, when I pull out the stick on the reservoir its all brown, could that cause the engine to run poorly?? I'm thinking since the coolant is so dirty it could have messed up the ect... lmk your thoughts! Ill try and have pics up tomorrow
It sounds like you found a good deal / a "church goer - grocery getter" Sporty, congrats,
but from what you describe to-date, it also sounds like it the vehicle was neglected some on maintenance,
so yes, I would be draining the coolant system, spraying out the junk at the bottom of the expansion bottle w/ a garden hose or pressure hose, filling it up with either city tap water or distilled water (would not use well water: too many minerals), running it up to temp., draining the water only fill, re-filling w/ water & a flush product (like Bar's Leaks 10 minute coolant system flush), running back up to temp., drain, refill w/ water only, run back up to temp., drain (get rid of any residual flush product), -then- filling w/ 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water product.
re: ECT sensor slimed or gummed up - yes, that is possible given your description of the coolant in the radiator and bottle, and likely. Recommend removing / inspecting / cleaning off w/ a nylon brush and soap & water only..
Philip's reply above re: IAC compensating for idle is accurate - it could be the IAC valve, illegal air entering the system (hence checking all hoses/fittings/ports/clamps) to ensure everything is tight and in good condition,
or it could be low voltage, hence cleaning up ground points: if the coolant original to the vehicle, it is likely that ground points have not been cleaned, either.
If after cleaning ground points you notice "dimming" of dash lights at night when putting the electrical system under load (headlamps/heater/power windows), then I would suggest replacing both the Fuel Pump and Main relays as a diagnostic step: the factory-installed relays have a low EOL lifecycle, and are further affected by poor ground condition (see above).
To fully Q/A ground points, I would also remove the battery, lift the plastic battery tray to expose the (4) bolts securing the ground tray to the frame, remove the rusted bolts, clean up the threads w/ vinegar or navel jelly, and install new (stainless) bolt hardware.
An OBDII scanner that displays real-time data (see my sig. for the one I use), would allow you to check any "pending" codes that may be stored (re: CEL / no codes), in addition to allowing you to check the values the ECM is seeing for the ECT, AIT, TPS, MAF, and primary O2 sensors on the vehicle,
re: Air intake: replace the air filter w/ new if not done already, and check the hood batting at the front of the hood over the fresh air intake mounted on the radiator: if the hood batting is loose it may be (blocking) airflow into the airbox ..
Okay so I finally changed out all the spark plugs/coil packs. I also cleaned the grounds. I started the car cold, and it started faster than usual and it seemed to be running fine! But once it warmed up the CEL popped up and it started running rough again, I figured I would try and grab the code again and it decided to throw a P0134 "O2 senson circuit no activity (Bank 1 sensor 1)" I found a few threads on here about that code and people say it is usually a connector problem? So I checked the o2 (one in the exaust mani) sensor connector and it was connected properly, but it seemed like there was oil all over it I guess from the old valve cover gasket. Im gonna wait till the engine cools down but I am not sure what I should clean the plug with?
And also I used the real time and it seemed like my o2 bank 1 sensor 1 was working as I could see the graph of the volatge going up and down, but when I looked at o2 bank 1 sensor 2 there was no voltage, it just layed pretty flat
*waiting for my video on youtube to process seems to be taking long
re: cleaning connectors: with electrical spray cleaner, or CRC-Brand MAF cleaner works equally well also.
also check the wiring from both O2 sensors -> back to the engine block connectors, to ensure nothing is broken, burnt, or corroded..
if no joy, and still no signal, it's either the o2 sensor fuse in the engine compartment fuse block, the o2 sensor itself, or the Fuel Pump relay (which supplies power to both o2 sensors heater circuit.)
The B1S2, is a monitor sensor and if the CAT is functioning correctly you should see a pretty steady .4v to.6v reading.
The B1S1 should be actively switching with no bias..... Philip
Nice I use the torque app too, my readings for B1S1 seem to bias lower voltages, and B1S2 doesn't look like its functioning correctly.. Are sports o2 sensors prone to malfunctioning? I'll try to get a screen shot of the o2 voltages
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