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sorry for all the pics, just trying to give as much info as possible
those hubs were gummed up really badly apparently (as i wasn't there) so i was wondering just how bad they have to be to not work?
overall impressions as to how bad these hubs are is much appreciated
also, can you get individual spare parts for inside the hubs, if i only a specific bit? not holding out much hope really, as they dont even make a throttle cable or thermostat now for this model, typical !
Last edited by bidderman196; 02-05-2012 at 04:19 PM.
sorry for all the pics, just trying to give as much info as possible
those hubs were gummed up really badly apparently (as i wasn't there) so i was wondering just how bad they have to be to not work?
overall impressions as to how bad these hubs are is much appreciated
also, can you get individual spare parts for inside the hubs, if i only a specific bit? not holding out much hope really, as they dont even make a throttle cable or thermostat now for this model, typical !
This doesn't look too good. Rest of the pics look very good.
re: hubs gummed up preventing 4x4 - absolutely..
On the '01 Sporty while vacationing in the White Mtns. in NH several yrs. ago, we took the Sporty to the top of Mt. Washington, on the auto road.
While at the summit it started raining - I switched the Sporty into 4x4 mode for the descent back down.
At the bottom of the mountain, after switching back to 4x2 mode -> on the way back to the hotel, the Sporty started "auto-locking" the hubs between 4x4 and 4x2 modes. Pretty disconcerting to the family in the vehicle..
After pulling in a service station, I pulled the line to the 4x4 vacuum solenoid to equalize pressure in the system. That helped, but those hubs were determined to turn our vacation into a car repair event.
After getting back to the hotel / with their blessing, I pulled the hubs off - they were pretty caked-up with old grease. Down to the auto parts store for some brake cleaner & fresh grease: after cleaning out the major crud and lightly regreasing, that solved the problem, at least for the remainder of the vacation -> the 3+ hour trip back home, until I could properly clean & regrease them.
--
Since you removed all grease from the hub parts, you will want to "condition" them before installation using fresh #1 MolyLube or equivalent, working the grease into all moving parts, by hand (wearing fresh / clean rubber or nitrile gloves) until all surfaces are coated -> slick to touch.
All parts should be lightly greased only: readily visible to eye, if you can't see the part under the grease, you got too much on, wipe the excess off.
Again, all parts need to be thoroughly coated / the grease worked into all gears.. When done, all parts should have a good film coat of grease on them.
Place about a teaspoon or so at the top of the cup. (Or a dab at the top of the spindle before reinstalling the hub.)
Thoroughly coat the spindle with a light layer of grease / work it in, same as above. Same for the Camming assembly.
Install and test.
If MolyLube #1 is not available, use an equivalent grease with Moly in it, like:
* You need that Moly in there, it's there specifically for the parts to slide.
--
An old gunsmith's trick to "pre-condition" bare metal parts that slide/make contact against each other is to place the bare cleaned parts in Automatic Transmission Fluid (Dextron 3 ATF) that has been warmed up / heated to 100-110 degrees (f) ( 37-43 (c) ) overnight. After doing this, thoroughly drain and wipe all metal parts. Lay out on some cloth to let any excess ATF soak. ** Wear clothing you don't care about trashing, any ATF on clothing will consign them to the "auto-repair" pile. **
--
re: parts available, I dunno. Best is to contact Warn directly, if cheaper, buy the Manual Locking Hub set, install, and call it good. (You already know the front diff. is working ok.)
This doesn't look too good. Rest of the pics look very good.
re: hubs gummed up preventing 4x4 - absolutely..
On the '01 Sporty while vacationing in the White Mtns. in NH several yrs. ago, we took the Sporty to the top of Mt. Washington, on the auto road.
While at the summit it started raining - I switched the Sporty into 4x4 mode for the descent back down.
At the bottom of the mountain, after switching back to 4x2 mode -> on the way back to the hotel, the Sporty started "auto-locking" the hubs between 4x4 and 4x2 modes. Pretty disconcerting to the family in the vehicle..
After pulling in a service station, I pulled the line to the 4x4 vacuum solenoid to equalize pressure in the system. That helped, but those hubs were determined to turn our vacation into a car repair event.
After getting back to the hotel / with their blessing, I pulled the hubs off - they were pretty caked-up with old grease. Down to the auto parts store for some brake cleaner & fresh grease: after cleaning out the major crud and lightly regreasing, that solved the problem, at least for the remainder of the vacation -> the 3+ hour trip back home, until I could properly clean & regrease them.
--
Since you removed all grease from the hub parts, you will want to "condition" them before installation using fresh #1 MolyLube or equivalent, working the grease into all moving parts, by hand (wearing fresh / clean rubber or nitrile gloves) until all surfaces are coated -> slick to touch.
All parts should be lightly greased only: readily visible to eye, if you can't see the part under the grease, you got too much on, wipe the excess off.
Again, all parts need to be thoroughly coated / the grease worked into all gears.. When done, all parts should have a good film coat of grease on them.
Place about a teaspoon or so at the top of the cup. (Or a dab at the top of the spindle before reinstalling the hub.)
Thoroughly coat the spindle with a light layer of grease / work it in, same as above. Same for the Camming assembly.
Install and test.
If MolyLube #1 is not available, use an equivalent grease with Moly in it, like:
* You need that Moly in there, it's there specifically for the parts to slide.
--
An old gunsmith's trick to "pre-condition" bare metal parts that slide/make contact against each other is to place the bare cleaned parts in Automatic Transmission Fluid (Dextron 3 ATF) that has been warmed up / heated to 100-110 degrees (f) ( 37-43 (c) ) overnight. After doing this, thoroughly drain and wipe all metal parts. Lay out on some cloth to let any excess ATF soak. ** Wear clothing you don't care about trashing, any ATF on clothing will consign them to the "auto-repair" pile. **
--
re: parts available, I dunno. Best is to contact Warn directly, if cheaper, buy the Manual Locking Hub set, install, and call it good. (You already know the front diff. is working ok.)
Regards,
GottaCruise
cheers bud, all this is much appreciated, believe me
1st thing, whats exactly up with the pic you highlighted? tbh, i was more concerned about this pic.......
i will try and get that suff you mentioned to "pre-condition" the parts, however, would it be a good idea to soak all the parts in like WD40 or something just to go and put it together just for the purpose of seeing if it works first? as i dont want to go through all the process just for the parts not to work?
cheers bud
Baz
Last edited by bidderman196; 02-06-2012 at 06:09 PM.
cheers bud, all this is much appreciated, believe me
1st thing, whats exactly up with the pic you highlighted? tbh, i was more concerned about this pic.......
i will try and get that suff you mentioned to "pre-condition" the parts, however, would it be a good idea to soak all the parts in like WD40 or something just to go and put it together just for the purpose of seeing if it works first? as i dont want to go through all the process just for the parts not to work?
cheers bud
Baz
Re: the pic I mentioned, it looks like the inner spline ring is badly abraded / deformed. *Maybe I'm just looking at it wrong.
The pic you posted, I think that ring has seen better days. If both parts are from the same hub, that may explain it.
re: pre-conditioning parts - I really wouldn't use WD40.
WD40's great for a lot of stuff, but has too many solvents to really bond /pre-coat metal.
You would be better off using a light weight machine oil, or even a lightweight motor oil, and soaking the parts overnight (probably would be cheaper too.)
Goal here is to pre-coat the parts, if you feel them now they are rough to touch: have microscopic ridges and valleys, etc. Pre-coating "fills" in those gaps - if you properly pre-coat, when you are done, even after wiping off all excess fluid, the parts will feel smooth to touch. When you're at that point, -then- you grease 'em.
Try sticking the parts in some motor oil at room temperature overnight, see how that goes.
re: dry-fitting and installing for test: NO. Please don't. Almost guaranteed to destroy those parts quickly. At least work some grease on them.
I suspect that between the (2) hubs you may be able to get "4x3" mode using parts from both..
If that happens, then I'd be checking the local salvage yards to score another hub or two - now that you know how to rebuild them, you should be in 4x4 mode in no time.
Re: the pic I mentioned, it looks like the inner spline ring is badly abraded / deformed. *Maybe I'm just looking at it wrong.
The pic you posted, I think that ring has seen better days. If both parts are from the same hub, that may explain it.
re: pre-conditioning parts - I really wouldn't use WD40.
WD40's great for a lot of stuff, but has too many solvents to really bond /pre-coat metal.
You would be better off using a light weight machine oil, or even a lightweight motor oil, and soaking the parts overnight (probably would be cheaper too.)
Goal here is to pre-coat the parts, if you feel them now they are rough to touch: have microscopic ridges and valleys, etc. Pre-coating "fills" in those gaps - if you properly pre-coat, when you are done, even after wiping off all excess fluid, the parts will feel smooth to touch. When you're at that point, -then- you grease 'em.
Try sticking the parts in some motor oil at room temperature overnight, see how that goes.
re: dry-fitting and installing for test: NO. Please don't. Almost guaranteed to destroy those parts quickly. At least work some grease on them.
I suspect that between the (2) hubs you may be able to get "4x3" mode using parts from both..
If that happens, then I'd be checking the local salvage yards to score another hub or two - now that you know how to rebuild them, you should be in 4x4 mode in no time.
thanks for taking the time to type all that out, great help, cheers
think what i shall do, is what you say about pre-cond'ing the parts, even if i can get one going, its a start, so then i can concentrate on getting at least one other hub,
and yes, i think they are from the same hub, those two parts
scrapyards arent what they used to be these days, used to be able to scamper over all the old cars to try to find bits. nowadays, its all heath and safety crap stopping you doing it now
well, dad's filed of the burr's and now most of the hubs are soaking in oil at present, so hopefully on sunday it will be judgement day and fingers crossed, it all works
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