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#1 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 07:21 AM
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Default blowing fuse

Have just reassembled the recon head on the sportage, and now the main 40amp fuse in the fusebox in the engine bay keeps blowing when I turn the ignition on. I then lose all power to the dash and ignition.
first I thought it due to the alternator overcharging as there was a b urning acid smell and the alternator was diagnosed with sticking brushes a while agobut I have removed the alternator so it can't be that.
As it only blows after a few minutes with the ignition on I assume it is in the wiring after the fuse, what is the most likely location of the weak spot?


any suggestions?
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#2 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 09:46 AM
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The 40A IGN fuse powers many things, all of which goes through the ignition switch. It appears the switched items that are not fused separately are the coils, condenser (on back of head), and ECU.
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#3 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 11:20 AM
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As this issue started after recent work, I would first inspect all harnesses that came close to the work area, Pinched, worn, abraded....

If this does not rectify, time to break out the VOM and start testing.....

and I understood he just did the head..
Quote:
Have just reassembled the recon head on the sportage
... Philip

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#4 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 12:38 PM
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First visit "kiatechinfo.com"...register... and get a diagram/schematic of what is connected to the 40A fuse in your Sportage.

I would be suspect of ALL items that were still bolted on to the replacement engine as you didn't have this problem BEFORE with the old engine! Also look for wiring harnesses that may have been scraped or pinched while removing and installing the engines. Was the engine out of a Sportage of the SAME year (same transmission)?
Wiring changes year to year (and model to model.. IE 2WD to 4WD)...the partial harness that may have been still on the engine may be wrong. I hope you still have the old engine as it is a good parts source for your trouble shooting.

Try to limit as many things as you can drawing current through the 40A fuse during testing (windshield wipers/blower motors/radio/dome lights/etc) by turning them off.

If you still can't find the intermittent shorted item (or wire)....

TOOL:
If you have available a multimeter that has a high current (amperage) position you might want to put it across where the fuse normally goes for a very short period of time (less time than it takes to blow the 40A fuse). This will give you a "base line" reading of how much current normally flows through the 40A fuse (when it's not blowing). Work fast and get the reading. If it's lower than say 15A you can put two headlight bulbs in parallel and then put them in series with the 40A fuse. This added circuitry effectively creates what is called a "current limiter". It limits the amount of current that can flow in this 40A circuit to around 8~10A (with two headlamp bulbs).
You can add more headlamp bulbs in parallel if they light brightly before the short appears (this allows more "normal" current to flow in the circuit but still only allows lower than 40A of current to flow.

Now start your car...
If/When the current increases (wants to blow fuse) the headlight bulbs will light instead (limiting current),giving you time to find the bad item by disconnecting an item one at a time until the bulbs go out).

The "bulb" idea came from my working on televisions that had problems that would destroy very expensive transistors. A 110v bulb placed in series with the power cord worked like a charm and saved parts and money. I have modified the idea to work on many cars with fuse blowing issues and it always worked well for me.
Dave
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#5 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 12:40 PM
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aquanaut20..
You beat me to it on some of the same ideas! Got pulled away from my in progress post
Dave
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#6 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavesSpectra View Post
aquanaut20..
You beat me to it on some of the same ideas! Got pulled away from my in progress post
Dave
That's OK dave,

I tend to be short and sweet in my replies, until I can gauge the capabilities of the owner.... and whether they are willing to diagnose or guess...... Philip
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#7 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 06:14 AM
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thanks for the responses. I should be clearer, the engine was not replaced, I removed the head because it had blown the head gasket, had it reconditioned, and replaced it.
I do suspect that there is a pinched wire in there somewhere, most likely behind the head, I will detach the coil wires first and see where that gets me. Then disconnect wires until something changes.
I did consider running 2 or 3 headlights across the fuse but am a bit worried about the computer etc, don't want to damage it as it is very costly and would likely be terminal for the car.
Is there a fuse avasilable that resets itself or can be reset, like a household circuit breaker? The fuses cost around $6 each and it gets a bit pricy after a while. I know you can get the small blade fuses resettable for about $13, but not apparently the larger ones used here.
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#8 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 12:02 PM
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That's what the 2~3 headlight bulbs are for...the ECM won't get damaged if you leave the (good) 40A fuse in series with the bulbs. IF anything goes wrong with the bulbs in place (it won't) ...worst case the fuse blows again (if draw is over 40 amps) but this keeps the current draw low. The bulbs become your "auto reseting" fuse/breaker...that's what they are there for(saves $$$ on 40A fuses limits current).
Bet you find it soon....
Dave
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#9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2011, 06:25 AM
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thanks but will be going away for the week so won't be doing anything to the car for a while so will have to put it off for a while.
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