2002 Sportage clutch

[DonM]

After sitting two years for a timimg belt replacement, the clutch is acting funny now. It has a lot of free travel at the top and engages close to the floor. I thought either the master or slave cylinder could be bad, but Autozone doesn't carry them.

Could it be as simple as bleeding the hydraulic line?

Any thoughts appreciated.

[Phil-from-Scotland]

From my manual on CD (1995 - 2002 models).
INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT
Clutch Pedal Height
Inspection
Pull back carpet and measure the distance from the
upper surface of the pedal pad to the bulkhead.
Standard height: 9.84 in (250 mm)
Adjustment
1. Adjust the clutch pedal height by loosening the lock
nut and turning stop bolt.
2. After the adjustment, tighten locknut.
Tighten nut to 12 lb.'ft (16 N.m).
Clutch Pedal Free Play
Inspection
Push the clutch pedal lightly by hand and measure the
free play.
Free play: 0.5 in (12.7 mm)
Adjustment
1. Adjust the freeplay by loosening locknut and
tuming the pushrod.
2. Check that the distance from the floor to the center
of the upper surface of the pedal pad is correct
when the pedal is fully extended. If it is not within
specification, adjust.
3. When correctly adjusted tighten locknut.
Disengagement height: 7.25i n (184m m).

Hope that helps but if you need a manual - I have a cd (1995 to 2002 models) that I can do you for £5 GBP (8$usa) and that includes postage to just cover costs if it helps you, payable via paypal as they do automatic currency exchange. Let me know on Philsbargainstore@gmail.com (pay to that address with paypal). Regards and good luck.

[DonM]

Update: After driving home from work yesterday (45 mi) then letting the A/C run a few minutes before heading out again, the clutch stuck in disengaged mode. Pushing the pedal to the floor disengages the clutch fully and gives no problem putting trans in gear. Letting the pedal up, no resistance but the return spring and its like trans is in neutral. I think the piston in the master cylinder is sticking, and high tempurature under the hood seems to aggravates it. After sitting about four hours, it was back to the way it was before and I could drive it again.

Since a new cylinder is hard to come by (dealer only?), can it be taken apart and cleaned?

[tonup]

new slave cylinders are on ebay all the time for about $24
and yes most slave and master cylinders can be stripped and new kits fitted. for $24 for the slave i wouldn't bother rekitting and this is first thing i would look at.

[DonM]

Update: Replaced both master and slave cylinders and all is good. Found both at AutoZone - just hadn't looked around enough before. Original master cyl was PLASTIC! (no wonder it was sticking at 74k mi), new one is cast aluminum. Cast iron on orig and new slave cylinders. Now I just need to bleed the system for good measure...