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I pulled a very strange code while playing with my 99 Sportage.
I have 3 altogether; #1 is P1115, coolant temp sensor, I am looking into what might have set this. #2 is P1624, torque converter requesting a signal??? I have no idea yet why this is setting (this is the 3rd time it has come up and starting to concern me). I need to locate the TCM and trace the conections on these first 2. Where is the TCM?
The last one i cant find any information in shop manuals or web search on it...
What does HO2511 mean? Not shure if it is H(oh), or H(zero) either?H(oh)i would guess.
Every search i have done says that there are no codes starting with H! I have run it several times to dbl check. My Auto-xray easy scan 5000 is impossible to tell the differance zero and oh, but it is definately reading H02511 as a pending code. Now what do i do?
its hard to tell unless there is something noticebly wrong. My guess is that it could have something to do with emissions. ive never heard of an h code either, maybe you could access the code database for your diagnoser.?
I checked AutoXray's site and called them...They say there are no HO codes??? We used a snap-on reader yesterday and also got the HO2511... they also say it doesn't exist??? It must mean something or the software would not have a way to get it to the screens???
Meanwhile i cleared it out and drove it some more. The idle gets to almost stalling at times with no codes setting during the day... but when the headlights are on i find that the check engine light comes on when the new electric fan engages??? Again the P1624 and HO2511??? I wonder if this lousy 70 amp alt can handle the new fan start load? Does any-one make a higher amp alternator for these? I can't say that i have ever seen a KIA thumper car...maybe that is because the electrical system can't handle the amps??? The 16"spal fan does require a 30amp circuit, but the only high draw would be the first 1-2seconds of start-up(when the SES light comes on!). After that it should be less than 10amp especially since the spal controller only runs it at 50% most of the time. If i can find a 100amp or so alt and a good high reserve battery it might solve the code setting problem??? Does any-one make a larger battery cable set with better connectors or am i going to have to custom fab? These connectors are a sick joke!
What is most aggravating is that i don't see any connection to the rough idle problem and the codes. Any ideas?
i dont have any other idea besides maybe a design flaw. my sportage used to idle really low but i adjusted it at the throttle cable, have you tried that?
Drives: 2001 Kia Sportage, 1995 Saturn SL1 (wife's)
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Service Campaign: OBD Information Label (SC010 - Revised)
There is a campaign on kiatechinfo.com that says:
The ECM logic on 1998 and 1999 MY Sephia and Sportage models requires that the engine must be running to access OBD information through the DLC (Data Link Connector). If the engine is not running, incorrect diagnosis and repair could occur which could result in the vehicle failing an emission inspection or smog test.
To correct the possibility of incorrect vehicle diagnosis, repair and smog test failures, Kia is sending an OBD Information label to all affected Sephia and Sportage owners requesting that they attach the label to the lower instrument panel of their vehicles. -- http://www.kiatechinfo.com/ under campaigns, "Service Campaign: OBD Information Label (SC010 - Revised)"
I know you need to turn the ignition to on to start the OBDII diagnostics, but this campaign makes it sound for these models/years the engine must actually be in a running state. Otherwise why would it mater?
Maybe this could be it? (I also saw a Tech Times posting in there about the ECU in the 2002 throwing undocumented codes, but they still started with "P")
After a quick trip through Google, I came up with two possible definitions for you:
Circuit Slow or Lean
Best I could find, man. Hope that helps. As far as your alternator concerns, it isn't all that hard to fab up a bracket and substitute another alternator.
__________________
It ain't broke till you can't fix it anymore.
I know you need to turn the ignition to on to start the OBDII diagnostics, but this campaign makes it sound for these models/years the engine must actually be in a running state. Otherwise why would it mater?
I always do the diagnostic while engine running, if it will run that is. That way i can set my scanner to real time read-out and watch the values being fed to the ECM...this will sometimes show you that a sensor is sending strange values even though the ECM doesn't flag it to set a code.
Quote:
Circuit Slow or Lean
what circuit is that refering to?
Mine is still stumbleing on idel at times but not setting any new codes. I tried to set the idle higher and got it set at 800rpm. The problem is that this stupid ecm over-rides my set on the next start-up and goes back to where it was. My guess is that this is due to a non-adjustable TPS???
I realy don't want to be custom makung things on this car...I will keep looking for a higher out-put alt..
I am so busy with Halloween that it might be about 2weeks before i get back to it.
I always do the diagnostic while engine running, if it will run that is. That way i can set my scanner to real time read-out and watch the values being fed to the ECM...this will sometimes show you that a sensor is sending strange values even though the ECM doesn't flag it to set a code.
what circuit is that refering to?
Mine is still stumbleing on idel at times but not setting any new codes. I tried to set the idle higher and got it set at 800rpm. The problem is that this stupid ecm over-rides my set on the next start-up and goes back to where it was. My guess is that this is due to a non-adjustable TPS???
I realy don't want to be custom makung things on this car...I will keep looking for a higher out-put alt..
I am so busy with Halloween that it might be about 2weeks before i get back to it.
Just guessing here, but I think it has to do with the Heated Oxygen sensor.
Heated O2 511
I'll see if I can find something to back-up my guess.
__________________ For service info register (free) with KiaTechInfo and click on 'Shop' on the left, and for elect schematics click on 'ETM'.
I tried to set the idle higher and got it set at 800rpm. The problem is that this stupid ecm over-rides my set on the next start-up and goes back to where it was. My guess is that this is due to a non-adjustable TPS???
The throttle butterfly valve stop screw should not be adjusted - big warning notice in the manual.
The ECU will control the idle speed using the ISC valve at the set RPM regardless of engine loads.
Best to return the throttle stop screw to its original position and then check the TPS, ISC and EGR.
The TPS is normally adjustable in a small range - The KiaTech web site describes how to test the TPS feedback.
A bad O2 sensor can also cause rough idle, in addition to sluggish performance and high gas consumption.
__________________ For service info register (free) with KiaTechInfo and click on 'Shop' on the left, and for elect schematics click on 'ETM'.
Need ECM code defined???
Linear Mode
