99 Sportage Hardly runs when first started

[bubbashrimp]

It bucks and jumps and has no power. Then if you let it sit and idle for a few minutes it will run fine.

I suspect the IAC might be the problem, but after the car warms up it runs okay, so what would cause that?

I took the IAC off and sprayed it out good with MAF cleaner. I also cleaned out the MAF.

There is like a little door in one passage of the IAC. It is about 1/8" open. I can put a small screwdriver in there and lift it up about 3/8" and when take the screwdriver out, it goes back to 1/8" open. Is this normal?

I ran my first tank of gas through the car and only got 14 MPG. That's still a lot better than my old Ford F150, but I was hoping for closer to 20.

Any help would be appreciated.

I changed the plugs and wires today. Looks like they have been recently changed except it had Autolite plugs gapped to about .040. Didn't see any oil so I left the valve cover gasket alone. I installed NGK plugs gapped at .030. Didn't see any difference in performance, but maybe it will help the gas mileage.

[Mike70]

I don't have any idea what it could be. Have you tried running it with the MAF unplugged? If you umplug the IAC while running, it should die immediately. Maybe a vacuum leak that is closing off when warm?

[bubbashrimp]

No, I haven't tried unplugging the MAF, but I will try it. It must be something that only affects the engine when it is warming up, but I don't know what that would be.

[Mike70]

I've been trying to think of what might cause this. I think first I would look at electrical. Make sure all connectors are good and tight. Try wiggling different sections of the wiring while it is running rough. Have you checked all the grounds in the engine compartment?

My 1999 Sportage gets 20-21 MPG with a teenager driving it. If you can get this problem fixed, surely yours will increase.

[bubbashrimp]

Did I mention that it also idles very fast [2200 RPM] after it warms up?

Well I unplugged the MAF and it hesitates just a bit when it is cold and first takes off, but it is much better than before. It now idles almost too slow, maybe 600 or 700 RPM.

I am going to try it again tomorrow with it unplugged and then plug the MAF back in and see what happens. If it goes back to running really bad until it warms up and the idle goes back up to over 2,000 then I will replace the MAF. I already tried cleaning the MAF with genuine CRC MAF cleaner spray last week and that did not make any difference at all.

Thanks a lot everyone for your help and advice.

[MrVette]

BUBBA, Before you throw any more parts (and MONEY) at it, try a compression test. The chevy small block fittings work, same sized plugs. borrow a tester if need be. Let it turn several times to build-up maximum pressure since there is no choice but to cold test on these. I hope that i am wrong on yours but that test pointed mine to the head gasket. Your's sounds a bit similar to the problems with mine.
Good Luck.

[bubbashrimp]

Well I hooked up the MAF again and the car barely made it out of the driveway. It runs much better with it unhooked.

My situation is this. I have congestive heart failure. Some days are good and some are not. I used to do all the work on my cars, but now it just wears me out. If I was in better health I would check the compression, but the way I am, I'd rather gamble the $80.00 for a new MAF. I could have the compression checked by a mechanic, but that would probably cost more than the $80.00.

Rather than tear it all apart to check the compression I am going to chuck $80.00 at it for a new MAF and see what happens. I think it will fix it. Let's hope so.

[Minty1084]

Try the O2 sensor. Ebay cheap 1 for £15. My wifes sportage 1998 2.0l petrol 4WD would start up, then after about 1 minute chug away, misfire, cough and splutter and stall (if driving). It would do this and then clear and run fine. as soon as uit was cold like clockwork same point down the road it would do it EVERY time. The O2 sensor basically was affecting the choke etc on start up when cold and after testing it found it faulty, replaced with a cheap 1 and never happened since.

[MrVette]

Bubba,
Most of the Auto-zones and Checkers have an auto-xray scanner available that they will hook up to your car for free to test all of the sensors. Ask them if they will put it into real-time capture mode and see if the sensors are doing their jobs. My only problem has been that no-one is sure what the #2 O2 sensor should be reading at...around here that doesn't surprise me...i am in the black-hole of Satan's waste pile when it comes to good tech info. Pueblo is called pew-town by the rest of the state for too many reasons, and none have a thing to do with a church.
Ask around some parts shops and see if you can get some kid willing to take a side job of doing the compression test...maybe you can get lucky and get one to do it real cheep. There isn't much they could mess up if you kinda watch them.
When you unhook the MAF or any major sensor the ECM automatically goes into a preprogramed set of minimal standard to keep the car mobile in a diminished capacity, by-passing all the smog stuff. This is called limp-home-mode and is a barely usable fuel and spark curve to keep it running. The problem that is hurting your engine is some-thing that will cause the ECM to set the trims so out of whack that it won't run once you hook it back up.
Mine, i think, was trying to lower the O2 value on the second sensor because it was burning water through the catalytic converter causing incorrect value??? I found no water in the oil so it had to be going some-where...dirrectly into the cylinder changing all readings???
Sorry to hear about the heart problems...hope you find some-one to help you cheep. I would but i cant afford the trip.

[bubbashrimp]

Auto Zone plugged a tester into a jack under the dash and it returned two codes.
PO442 - EVAP small leak/no flow condition. Caused by defective fuel cap, canaster loose or cracked, purge or vent solenoid defective or vacuum leak at engine. I replaced the fuel cap and checked for leaks, loose hoses, etc.

P0101 - MAP or MAF sensor condition. Caused by Vacuum hose off, cracked or passage blocked engine mechanical timing condition, Throttle body intake tube loose, off or cracked, MAP defective [I don't think this Kia has a MAP], MAF dirty or defective. I cleaned the MAF and checked all the hoses, pipes, clamps and tubes I could see.

Thanks for your concern MrVet. I am pretty sure all the hoses are tight so I don't know what else to do but replace the MAF.