I found this thread the best step-by-step on here
http://www.kia-forums.com/do-yoursel...s-finally.html
I ended up doing this last week-end and getting that belt on took ALOT of tries before i got it right. In the end i had my brother hold the cam gears in place with 2 17mm combo wrenches(14mm???) while i slipped the belt on the crank and over the tensioners...since the crank always went forward about one tooth when the tensioner was freed. I ended up puting it on one tooth before the mark (1 tooth space counter clockwise as you face it) which pulled it right into exact lipe-up when the tensioner was released. All 3 marks should give a very straight line-up when done right. The I and E realy dont matter which side they are on...as long as you have one of each at alignment...when you get it on you find as you turn it to dbl check that one is TDC and the other is BDC in crank relation...won't matter which you use when done. I laughed when i realised this while turning mine.
The crank mark is just a very small indent in the edge on the crank pully that lines up with a small straight line cast in the block at 12oclock. the indent lines up with the crank key-way so you could just look at the keyway at 12oclock for alignment also.
You realy should not have had to remove the center crank bolt to remove the pulley. MAKE TOTALLY CERTAIN that that bolt is torqued down right, and i would think a little thread lock might be a good precaution on it. If it comes loose it could do some REAL damage. Pluss you kinda need that bolt in place to turn it over several times to make sure the alignment marks all line up on each rotation...DO TURN SEVERAL times to make certain before closing up and final tensioner adjustment.
Good luck...that belt took me longer than tear down and assembly combined.
