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Old 09-06-2008, 01:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
kip
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Default HELP! timing belt replace, I up to my kneck...

Okay I've almost got the old timing belt off. I can't seem to figure out how to get the crank shaft off. There is the one large bolt in the center and 6 small ones around the edge I've removed and assumed it would come off however it did not... Is it supposed to come off with the one large center bolt still there? if not how do I get that one off without spinning the engine?

THANKS!

Last edited by kip : 09-06-2008 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 09-06-2008, 01:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Okay I managed to get that off. A nylon strap with a hook wrapped around did the trick no prob. Next problem is that my timing marks are all buggered...... Am I okay to set the I and E on the intake an exaust separately as the old belt is now out? Also in the instructions from kia tech I can't tell about the timing mark for the crank.... it shows a mating mark... do I allign the I then E and the mating mark on nthe crank to set everything up?

THANKS!
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Old 09-06-2008, 01:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Try the info in these threads.

http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-sporta...ge+timing+belt

http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1994-20...tml#post220119
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I found this thread the best step-by-step on here
http://www.kia-forums.com/do-yoursel...s-finally.html

I ended up doing this last week-end and getting that belt on took ALOT of tries before i got it right. In the end i had my brother hold the cam gears in place with 2 17mm combo wrenches(14mm???) while i slipped the belt on the crank and over the tensioners...since the crank always went forward about one tooth when the tensioner was freed. I ended up puting it on one tooth before the mark (1 tooth space counter clockwise as you face it) which pulled it right into exact lipe-up when the tensioner was released. All 3 marks should give a very straight line-up when done right. The I and E realy dont matter which side they are on...as long as you have one of each at alignment...when you get it on you find as you turn it to dbl check that one is TDC and the other is BDC in crank relation...won't matter which you use when done. I laughed when i realised this while turning mine.
The crank mark is just a very small indent in the edge on the crank pully that lines up with a small straight line cast in the block at 12oclock. the indent lines up with the crank key-way so you could just look at the keyway at 12oclock for alignment also.
You realy should not have had to remove the center crank bolt to remove the pulley. MAKE TOTALLY CERTAIN that that bolt is torqued down right, and i would think a little thread lock might be a good precaution on it. If it comes loose it could do some REAL damage. Pluss you kinda need that bolt in place to turn it over several times to make sure the alignment marks all line up on each rotation...DO TURN SEVERAL times to make certain before closing up and final tensioner adjustment.
Good luck...that belt took me longer than tear down and assembly combined.
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