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I have just been for the MOT and although it has passed there is some play in the front nearside wheel which appears to be possibly in the bearing.
I have worked on many cars but never looked at 4 wheel drive cars.
Is there any information (pictures) or details of the disassembly of the front hubs and bearings ?
Also are the front bearings of the tapered type of torqued and can they be tightened ?
1 more thing - There is some play (nothing major) in the steering. It seems to be between the box in the engine (where the steering colum goes into) to the wheels, is there anyway of tightening this play please.
this is a fairly simple procedure. the design is a little silly as far as the plate/nut that holds the rotors on. there is no tightening that can be done , unless that plate has somehow came loose or the two srews have backed out. i highly doubt this is the case. Basically you remove the tire and hub to get to the plate with the two screws in it, remove the two screws and then is the fun part. The plate that the screws are screwed into have a indention on both sides of it, use a couple of screwdrivers or handles of pliers to back off the plate/nut. after the plate/ nut is removed it is just a matter of removing the brake caliper and rotors to get to your bearings. I would change the inner and outer on both sides while you are at it, also worth it to at least change the outer dust cover. feel free to email me if you have any questions, or call me if you need to. i just did this to my 01 about three weeks ago. 918-409-9374
Select your model, year and where it says "control unit" select engine. Click on Sportage on the drop down menu on the left under "Search", click on Drveshaft and Axle and then Front Hub Assembly. There will be a slider at the bottom of that menu; slide it to the right. Under Front Hub you'll see "Repair Procedure" and that will give you the whole run down on the repair procedure and should give you an idea of where the problem lies.
__________________
It ain't broke till you can't fix it anymore.
this is a fairly simple procedure. the design is a little silly as far as the plate/nut that holds the rotors on. there is no tightening that can be done , unless that plate has somehow came loose or the two srews have backed out. i highly doubt this is the case. Basically you remove the tire and hub to get to the plate with the two screws in it, remove the two screws and then is the fun part. The plate that the screws are screwed into have a indention on both sides of it, use a couple of screwdrivers or handles of pliers to back off the plate/nut. after the plate/ nut is removed it is just a matter of removing the brake caliper and rotors to get to your bearings. I would change the inner and outer on both sides while you are at it, also worth it to at least change the outer dust cover. feel free to email me if you have any questions, or call me if you need to. i just did this to my 01 about three weeks ago. 918-409-9374
Many thanks. I'm gonna try tomorrow and have alook.
Select your model, year and where it says "control unit" select engine. Click on Sportage on the drop down menu on the left under "Search", click on Drveshaft and Axle and then Front Hub Assembly. There will be a slider at the bottom of that menu; slide it to the right. Under Front Hub you'll see "Repair Procedure" and that will give you the whole run down on the repair procedure and should give you an idea of where the problem lies.
That's great many thanks for this.
I am sure it will be clear once I start stripping it. Just confused as to how to tighten the main nut that holds the bearing housing (the hub) onto the driveshaft ? In normal cars there is 1 nut which is torqued which holds the whole thing together !
Looking tomorrow will let you know how I go
Select your model, year and where it says "control unit" select engine. Click on Sportage on the drop down menu on the left under "Search", click on Drveshaft and Axle and then Front Hub Assembly. There will be a slider at the bottom of that menu; slide it to the right. Under Front Hub you'll see "Repair Procedure" and that will give you the whole run down on the repair procedure and should give you an idea of where the problem lies.
Took off the wheel, outer hub (6 nuts), circlip, washer, locking assembly and noticed the hub nut (the large one that sits inside the rotor/brake disc was loose. I did not have a proper tool to tighten it but just gently tapped it clockwise using a thin nail in one of the recesses until the play was taken up and the nut was nipped up. I Replaced the parts back together and the wheel now spins freely without any play.
Can anyone tell me what "Bearing run out" means please as I like to do things right and haven't come across this before.
[b]Also can someone tell me about the following instruction and what it means ------------ Screw lock nut up against wheel assembly and using a lock nut wrench, tighten nut to set bearing preload.
Bearing preload: 10 lb-in (1.3 N·m)
Last edited by Minty1084 : 09-12-2008 at 11:16 AM.
Preload is a predetermined load placed on a bearing during assembly or by adjustment. This is where the bearing is loose enough to spin freely but there is enough tension to remove too much runout or play. Runout is the amount of wobble of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated. When you tighten down the hub nut, to do it properly, you use a torque wrench and tighten it to 10 inch pounds. A torque wrench found in the garage of the typical shadetree mechanic will measure in foot pounds. 10 inch pound converted for such will be 0.8333 foot pound. ToolSource.com has an inch pound torque wrench for about $175 plus shipping.
__________________
It ain't broke till you can't fix it anymore.
Preload is a predetermined load placed on a bearing during assembly or by adjustment. This is where the bearing is loose enough to spin freely but there is enough tension to remove too much runout or play. Runout is the amount of wobble of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated. When you tighten down the hub nut, to do it properly, you use a torque wrench and tighten it to 10 inch pounds. A torque wrench found in the garage of the typical shadetree mechanic will measure in foot pounds. 10 inch pound converted for such will be 0.8333 foot pound. ToolSource.com has an inch pound torque wrench for about $175 plus shipping.
Gomer many thanks.
I have torque wrenches but the nut is not a conventional nut. I suppose I will have to weld up a tool that will work with my drive of my torque wrench.
Gomer on another note as you seem very up on these things, do wheel bearings (front) often need adjusting or is it a sign it's on it's way out for replacement ?
I have nipped it up and it seems fine, just curious whether the sportage needs the front bearings nipped occassionally as my experience with most front bearings is that they are normally highly torqued up unlike the Sportage which could be why they easily loosen ?
Regards,
dave
Last edited by Minty1084 : 09-13-2008 at 07:43 AM.
Reason: Spelling :)
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Front wheel bearings - 4WD Help please
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