That article doesn't have much that is new to me. I spent about 3hrs cleaning and checking the block surface out of habit. When it says not to use a scotchbrite pad though they didn't explain that there are pads that will not remove metal (on iron surfaces only!) because they are much softer than the metal. I can't remember the actual name of them but i do use them on the block to get the cleanest surface possible where you can see contamination left.
Most of the time you find that when checking with straight edge you get gaps over unclean areas and this can lead you to spots you need to clean better as well. I have only seen one iron block that wasn't flat enough to pass. Turned out that it had been sleeved before leading to the warping.
One of the biggest rules i was taught is to ALWAYS zero your torque wrench before putting it away. Temperature changes while stored at a setting will cause the true value to change. This zeroing greatly extends the accuracy life in seldom used wrenches as you can imagine. And i just change out my torque wrenches frequently enough to not have any real issue with value fluctuation. A good craftsman one isn't much more than lab testing fee.
I also wondered why they did not mention the radiator cap as being one of the biggest problems leading to over heating. The pressure value that they open at is extremely critical to internal temperatures. I have always said it is even more critical than the thermostat...exagerating a little.
But the caps are very cheaply made on all cars (some exotics might have better) and tend to start opening at different pressures with time.
I love that this kia has 2 temperature openings and a very small by-pass hole built into it's thermostat. I have been drilling a VERY small hole in new thermostats for years to insure that there is no trapped air bubble to prevent thermostat opening. Most other "mechanics" scoff at me about it but i know what can happen.
I also say NEVER wire wheel head bolts. Use the scotchbright pad (stiffer variety medium grit) cut to one inch squares and installed on a dremil cut-off mandrel. This spins very nicely and is soft enough to insure no scratches or nicks.
And you notice that i already sent the head to the machine shop since it is aluminum.
The gasket that i removed was a multi-layer graphite type. There was some build-up in some of the steam holes which i carefully cleaned out as well. I use a bolt to chase the holes when they do not have to have sealant on them. Running it in and out spraying with carb cleaner between times gives a cleaner thread...insures that the tap doesn't catch on the threads and gall them. When i build a new block i usually spend a good day cleaning the garage and wash the floor to reduce dust and stuff so that should tell you something about my desire for clean engine building as well.
i have tried to get this block, and the area, as clean as i can before i start assembly. I probably won't start till tomorrow since i have a meeting tonight and the head won't be done till this after-noon.
Nice thread there though...never stop learning.
The max before a new head is .012. He had to search down that number, and others, to make certain it was still usable. Basicly he said that next time i have to get a new head...let us hope there is no next time.
I am going to see if there are unused accessories in the fuse box. My Sportage seems to be lacking all the options available.
Linear Mode
