Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Louisville KY
Drives: 2000 Kia Sportage EX 4x4 auto
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How to fix Grounding problem
Was doing some research and found this post and thought it might help someone out here.
Does this sound familiar?
1. Engine RPM is unstable. Wanders between 1500 and 3000 RPM - AT IDLE!!!
2. Won't run when cold - Sputters and dies when you step on the gas.
3. No acceleration!
4. Engine light is always on!
5. Installing new components never fixes anything. You always end up back where you started or maybe worse.
Well after a thousand dollars, 30 days in the shop, and a an education in the stupidity of our local dealership, I now have the only Sportage on the planet that RUNS RIGHT! The problem appears to be completely in the electrical wiring. The manufacturer did a piss poor job of grounding the electrical system so your computerized car ends up with what we in the aircraft avionics repair field (Flight Controls, Navigation Systems, RADAR & Radios) call a "Floating Ground".
All those fancy electrical sensors in your car are trying to provide a specific voltage to your cars computer. They can only do this if they have both a good power input (Hot) wire and a good ground. If you loose your ground due to rust or dirt the electricity tries to follow "the path of least resistance" (We have all heard that phrase before). Unfortunately, the point the power finds to flow to, is almost never a solid ground which would provide little or no resistance. If you have a relatively high resistance ground (maybe rusted) the voltage output from the sensor which runs to your computer is distorted, so the computer thinks you have a problem and turns on the "Check Engine" light. It will also try (mistakenly) to correct the sensed error by increasing or decreasing the fuel flow to the motor or change any one of the hundred other things it controls.
The REALLY SICK PART about this whole thing is KIA has printed guidance on how to correct this problem in thier repair manuals. (1997 - 1999 PO101/HIGH IDLE.)
I got a copy!!!
Here it is...
1. Remove all terminals from connectors C144 (TP Sensor) / C129 (MAF Sensor), solder terminals, "retension" then install them into the connectors. Make sure the male terminals on the sensor side are not twisted and are in alignment.
2. Disconnect C123 / C124 / C161 (remove secondary lock if necessary) and retension all terminals.
NOTE: Always add one drop Stabilant 22A after tensioning the terminals, then apply to ECT, IAC and IAT sensors
3. Improve grounds at: G103 (R/F kick panel area), G104 (at intake manifold), G105 (battery tray ground).
4. Solder splices: S113 (around transmission bell-housing), S114 (at rear of fuel injection harness near #4 injector), S116 (front of fuel injection harness near #1 fuel injector), S192 (near bulkhead grommet at ECM, pin-71), S193 (4-8" off bulkhead grommet), S194 (at G103 branch), S195 (at MAF sensor near DLC split) - Splices may vary depending on model / year.
5. Check air filter
6. Start the engine and monitor the TP and MAF values. The MAF sensor should be approximately 3.5 to 3.6 gms/sec. The TP value should be between 400-600mV
or 10 to 11 degrees at idle.
7. Road test the vehicle and ensure all the readiness tests have passed and are complete. During the road test check the "HO2S1" as the vehicle is under hard acceleration. The voltage should be high noting a RICH condition. If the voltage stays low indicating a LEAN condition the feul system should be checked for contamination or blockage. Also check for cracks in the Catalytic converter which will cause incorrect readings by the O2 sensor.
8. LEAVE S113 TILL LAST. RE-SOLDER IT ONLY IF NECESSARY!
These procedures sound more like a method to correct a "Manufacturers Defect" than simple step by step repair instructions for fixing the turn signals or something else that may break or wear out. After all, in this entire procedure they never actualy CHANGE or REPLACE ANYTHING! But they sure did charge me for the labor!
Please let me know if this works for you too.!
Buy the way... the water dripping from under the passenger side dashboard is simply condensation over filling the "pan" under the cooling coils which is supposed to run thru a tube, out side thru the firewall. If you look under the hood at the wall behind the left side of the enine (a little over half way down) you will find a small
(4-5 inch) rubber "elbow" which should be pointed at the ground so the water can drip out. It is recognizable because the lower end of it is a formed rubber end with a real narrow rectangular opening---this gets plugged with dirt which causes the condensation from the AC unit to back-up and drip into the car on your passengers feet. Just remove the car battery and reach down there and simply slide the rubber fitting off the end of the metal tube coming thru the wall, clean it out and put it back on. Personally I found it easier and more effective to rotate the rubber spout upward then take the Shop Vac and simply suck out all the old water and the debris with it. Then I spin the rubber spout back down and put the car battery back in place. WORKS GREAT - NO MORE WET FEET.