First of all I would like to acknowledge the post from RC1 on the subject of re-programing your RKE module to except new key-fob transmitters. His posting is at....
http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1994-20...ess-entry.html
I found his thread to be very similar to my experience on this subject, with a few minor differences while I was working on my daughters Kia Sportage EX.
Also let me say I was all hyped up and ready to shower this thread with all sorts of photos I took while I had the console apart. Then I found out I can only post 4 pictures per posting. I am new to this forum and as such will figure out how things work in here as I go. So now I am only showing the most pertinent pictures to this process.
So here we go. After much research on this subject and finding many interesting sites (of which this forum is one of), this is what I have learned.
The Key-Fob transmitters that will work with the factory Remote Keyless Entry module have printed or embossed on the case an FCC ID of
GOH-3BFM2497 (the original key-fob's from Kia have this ID)
or
GOH-3BL98 (the newest replacement key-fob's from Code-Alarm)
If you go searching for the above FCC ID numbers you will come across some Ford transmitter that have the same configuration as the Kia units. Yes, Code-Alarm sold OEM systems to Ford also, so if you come across one of these with the Ford logo on it, it should work with the KIA RKE module.
When the Kia Sportage came from the factory it did not have the RKE module installed. This was done either at the port of entry when the cars came off of the transport ship or at the Dealer. The RKE module is actually made by Code-Alarm but the wiring harness that connects it to the Electronic Time & Alarm Control Module is a factory Kia item.
Please see this link for more info on the Kia / Code-Alarm relationship.
Code-Alarm to Supply Remote Keyless Entry for Kia Sportage. - PR Newswire - HighBeam Research
I have been shopping eBay for another key-fob transmitter but I bought the first one from Remotes Unlimited, located in Stafford Texas just outside of Houston. They have a fairly good website and their replacement key-fob's all come with programming instructions which I will detail later in this thread.
https://www.remotesunlimited.com/
Now for some pictures......
You are going to have to remove the arm rest and the Center Console to get to the RKE programming switch
IF it is located in the same place as mine was.
I am not going to detail what it take to remove these covers. If you cannot figure that out then you may not want to go as far as I did to recover your RKE system. In the above picture you can see the RKE module on the right side of the shift selector and just below the cigarette lighter outlet. The white wire trailing to the rear down the right side of the shift selector is the RKE's antenna wire.
View from the driver side. The Electronic Time & Alarm Control Module (ET&ACM) is located on the left side opposite of the RKE module and is visible in this picture. If you open up your console and only see one module and it is on the left side with 2 white plugs facing the shift selector, than you DO NOT have an RKE module or remote keyless capabilities. If you have the factory RKE system you should see 2 black modules, one left and one right in the area that is below the ash tray in this picture.
OK, my cheesy little digital camera doesn't take good close up shots so I am sorry about the picture quality. This is where I found my RKE programing switched taped to the wiring harness shown in this picture. I cut it loose with a sharp razor knife, being very careful not to damage the harness, and relocated it to the front left area of the console. So now it is accessible in the event I want to program more key-fobs and I do not have to remove the console covers to get to it.
Here is the RKE module programming switch after I cut it loose from the wiring harness. The button is visible in the center of the round plastic holder. The RKE receiver module is also visible in the background of this picture. The cable that the switch is on is about 6 to 8 inches long and is easily re-routable to the forward area so you can just reach around the front of the console to find the switch. This is the area where the heater vents blow air on to the floor area. Mine is on the gas pedal side but it could be on the passenger side, I think the wires are long enough to reach. I was going to show some pictures of where I drilled some small holes in the metal work and secured the switch with some zip-ties. But only 4 pictures allowed per posting.....
Now for the programming procedure as it came with my replacement remote from Remotes Unlimited. I also had to unplug the RKE module for 30 seconds before the programming sequence would take just as RC1 had described in his thread. I am hoping that disconnecting the battery in the future is just as good so I do not have to open the console again to program more key-fob transmitters. I have a feeling that this programming switch is only active just after a power cycle of the RKE module.
(From Remotes Unlimited, Code-Alarm instructions for transmitter programming)
Note: All transmitter codes must be learned at time of programing. The system can learn up to 4 different transmitter codes.
Transmitter Programming Procedure:
- Open the driver's door. (Leave door open and make sure overhead light is on throughout procedure)
- Turn the ignition key ON (turn key all the way forward with out starting vehicle).
- Press and HOLD the programming/override button (located under dash). In approximately 20 seconds the system will start to cycle the door locks and siren (if equipped) 3 times to indicate the system has entered the transmitter learn mode (DO NOT release the programming/override button).
- Press the ARM (Lock) button on the remote to be programmed. The system will respond by cycling the door locks and the siren (if equipped) one time to indicate the transmitter has been learned.
- All other transmitters (up to four) also need to be programmed at this time.
- Programming is now complete. Let go of the programming/override button and turn ignition off to exit learn mode.
In the above instructions where it mentions siren , the Sportage will beep the horn as the siren function. And what the Note is saying, if you are going to use 3 remotes, then the system has to learn all 3 at the same time. You cannot learn 1 remote and then come back and just add another. All remotes have to be learned when the system is in learning mode, up to 4 total.
I hope that the above information is helpful and useful. This forum is great and I am happy to support and pass on knowledge I have gained while working on my daughters Sportage.
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On a side note, if anyone is needing a complete wiring diagram for there Sportage or most any other car, try this site out.
Automotive Hobbyist Digital Online Library
Wiring Diagrams by Automotive Hobbyists
For $13 bucks you get a complete wiring diagram from bumper to bumper. It has some minor holes or omissions but for the most part very complete. They send it to you in a PDF file. You can print as many copies as you need. I was very impressed that even the wire colors listed were accurate. I was doing some wire harness repairs in the engine compartment after that my daughters Sportage suffered wheel well damaging on the left front fender after the tire blew out.
1999-2002 Sportage RKE Remote Keyless Entry Programing
Linear Mode
