Preventive Maintenance On 96 Sportage...how To's?

[DKElec]

Hi, my girlfriend has a 1996 Kia Sportage with just under 100K miles. I want to do some preventive maintenance things before the cold MN weather comes. Here are the things I want to do...

-Change fuel filter

-Flush coolant and install new thermostat

-Change PCV valve

-Change cabin filter (the fan is noisy and doesn't blow that hard)

-Drop tranny pan, clean pan and magnets, put new fluid in and new gasket

-Clean air filter and air box (I got her a new air filter about half a year ago)

-Plugs and wires.

I was wondering if you had any links for tutorials or guides? I should be ok on the coolant flush/Tstat, tranny fluid change, air filter but the rest I may need a few tips on.

Also what should I use for oil and oil filter? It has never had synthetic so it is a little high on the miles to switch now. I was thinking Valvoline Maxlife.

She has three trouble lights on all the time...ABS (car doesn't even have ABS), Check engine, and e-brake (?) What do you suggest? Getting the codes checked at autozone?

Finally, what Fuel injector cleaner do you guys like? I have used Chevron with Techron in the past. Thanks

[heladera]

It's ok for the Chevron Techron.
Dont clean air filter, replace with a new one.
Try synthetic, if you don't have oil consumption.
The coolant 35/65 if +0 degree celsius.
50/50 up to 65/35 below 0 degree celsius.
Also replace gear box oil.
Good Luck!

[Axe Man]

Spark plug change procedure here:

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php...=5&o=14&fpart=1

There is no cabin air filter.

The proper ATF is Dextron III.

If the e-brake light is on chances are the master cylinder is low on brake fluid. This should also account for the ABS light.

The code scan by Autozone should reveal why the check engine light is on. Post the codes here.

Has the timing belt ever been done? If not, it should be changed.

[DKElec]

Thanks...

Timing belt probably has never been done. This vehicle seems like it is starting to run rough so we don'y want to spend a lot of money on it. The AC doesn't work, power windows only work 1/8th of the time, extremely noisy because of air leaks, car shakes at idle, heat doesn't work well, blower fan is noisy and weak, etc...

I wish she didn't buy this car. I wasen't going out with her when she did, it appears that the previous owner didn't take very good care of it. I will try to get the car to Autozone and check if the master cylinder is full (when I get off work she starts and vice versa).

Any more tutorials like the one Axe Man posted would be great. Thanks

[DKElec]

No other known guides? thanks

[DKElec]

Ok, the master cylinder was low.

I also got to Autozone, the code is...
P1124
Throttle Position Sensor Out Of Self Test Range

New sensor? Cost? Can I do it myself? Any guides? Thanks

[SpoolingTurbo6]

Here is a quick fix SOMETIMES.... Go to you favorite IdiotZone and get a small packet of dielectrical grease
2 take the connector off the TPS and clean it out with a scribe.pick,paperclip .....do this to both male and female ends
3 squize a small ammount into the connector
4 plug back in
5 disconect BATT for 5 min or so (this resets faults last reported to ECU)
6 re connect BATT and start ( important not to rev engine upon start)... The next few minutes are what the call BLM or Block Learn Mode....where th ecu is checking parameters and sensors
Just a simple test MIGHT EVENS SAVE $60 bucks

Good Luck
Tyson

Originally posted by DKElec@Sep 30 2005, 04:01 PM
Ok, the master cylinder was low.

I also got to Autozone, the code is...
P1124
Throttle Position Sensor Out Of Self Test Range

New sensor? Cost? Can I do it myself? Any guides? Thanks

Quoted post

[DKElec]

Thanks, I have electrical contact cleaner too. Should I try using just that first or should I use that first then the dielectric grease?

Can you explain to me where the TPS sensor is?

Thanks

[SpoolingTurbo6]

maybe this will help.....