Engine temp 188.6F
STFT1 1.6 (Forgot to check STFT 2)
LTFT2 -108
LTFT1 -2.3 (typical)
Vaccum is 21 to 23 HG
MAF - Need to check reading again (i believe it was 3.x)
Is there a LTFT 2 or is this an error in the Torque Android app? It stays at -108. It sat for 6 months without the battery so the PCM may not have any stored values. Is LTFT an average value of STFT?
The amount of fuel exiting the exhaust makes eyes water. I replaced the faulty IAC but it ran rich before. I had some o2 wiring issues which I fixed and have no o2 codes. Perhaps I plugged the o2's in backwards? I believe there is a gray connector and also a black one but I can't recall which is which. I put in a new upstream o2 (o2 in exhaust manifold). I also have no cats (due to rusted cats) and the rear o2 is extended. I also have not finished welding the exhaust near the downstream o2 however on most vehicles the downstream makes no A/F adjustments other than reading cat output.
From what I understand LTFT2 would be half the engine (2 cylinders) so I don't quite understand why 2 cylinders would run so rich. I have a replacement MAF i could try. I'm going to give it a fuel pressure test and check the FPR. The shabby wiring could be causing a stuck injector? This happened after replacing the intake manifold gasket so the weak wiring could be giving me problems. I'm lost on this thing.
Error in the Torque app, LTFT2 would be for a vehicle with 2 banks of cylinders, the O2 sensor in your exhaust manifold cannot differentiate between any two cylinders in your engine.
I read that Inline 4 and 6 engines have 2 fuel trims. But I'm not a professional with fuel trims.
Anyhow, o2 sensor voltage on both fluctuate constantly between .1 and flings to .8.
It is stuck in o2 mode. I unplugged o2 #1 and it forced it into the PCM loop. It ran more lean at that point. I also unplugged the MAF but it ran even richer. I suppose I could check the injectors and clean them on the injector machine.
I suppose i'm going to have to yank the intake and check the crap wiring harness that goes to the injectors and up to the IAC. My IAC went crazy maybe due to a short.
The shabby wiring could be causing a stuck injector? This happened after replacing the intake manifold gasket so the weak wiring could be giving me problems. I'm lost on this thing.
Engine temp 188.6F
STFT1 1.6 (Forgot to check STFT 2)
LTFT2 -108
LTFT1 -2.3 (typical)
Vaccum is 21 to 23 HG
MAF - Need to check reading again (i believe it was 3.x)
No. Only Bank 1 STFT/LTFT on the 2.0 liter motor. Ignore Bank 2, doesn't apply.
Your MAF reading is WAY HIGH - it should only be about .4 lb/hr at idle, closed-loop. I'd recheck after fixing the IAC issue, if still high, I'd be treating as 'suspect' here..
re: dumping fuel .. Agree w/ Philip - possible fuel injector issue, or possible spark issue on a cylinder - would also check ignition components: in particular the pigtail leads to the coil packs from the rear harness, as a sanity check.
re: Shrader valve - no, the Sporty motor doesn't have one.
I've used a 'donor' fuel filter, cut the tube at the base of the filter to connect to the upper hose -> fuel rail, and spliced in a fuel pressure gauge between the (new) filter outlet / the 'cut' outlet fitting attached to the upper hose in the past.
(New filter outlet port) -> hose -> "T fitting -> hose -> (cut tube from old filter) -> upper plastic hose to fuel rail .. Fuel pressure gauge connects to the 3rd port on the "T".
If you have a complete fuel pressure test kit, I imagine there is an adapter to connect to the fuel rail port on back, IIRC the correct connector is (was) a SST tool @ the Kia Dealership.. A kind tech gave me the above tip.
I can't access the injector plug ins without removing the upper intake. I can get to the one on the end.
As far as the injector harness, last time I tried to access the entire harness behind the block I didn't get very far due to 10 degree temps. I've owned this thing for a year and drove it maybe 3 times. But this winter I'd 3like to have it running. So i will tear that sucker down anyhow because the timing belt idler pulley is howling. I need to simply build a new harness and re-route the wiring the way it should have been. This is one of many vehicles I need to fix before winter. These Korean vehicles are a big question mark in my domestic vehicle brain.
I have the fuel pressure kit with the tee. I'm attempting to understand the wye elbow on these unusual injectors. One person said it was a fuel return and another said it was an EGR/A/Fmixture valve.
I'll get around to that harness here soon. The junkyard down the road has plenty of cheap Sportage parts.
The LTFT2 threw me for a loop. But it does smell rich possibly just from no cats, just like my Trans Am smells now that I think about it. I think i may have over exaggerated the smell. However, a 70 year old woman will be driving it and I'd prefer that it not break down in sub zero temps. It seems to idle fine. I put new gas in and idled it for about an hour and old fuel may have been the problem.
"I'm attempting to understand the wye elbow on these unusual injectors. One person said it was a fuel return and another said it was an EGR/A/Fmixture valve."
The injectors on the 2.0L motor are air shrouded injectors, FYI.
Supposed to promote better fuel atomization -> emissions at idle .. That's it. No other real appreciable benefit.
Bosch spec'd these injectors on various motors w/ vehicle manufacturers, using their ECM platform, back in the mid-late '90s IIRC.
No Cats may well have something to do w/ the fuel odor, a jumped timing belt is also a possible cause - good idea to address the timing belt & the loud Idler pulley, sooner vs. later, while it's still warm outside.
Glad to read new fuel is helping - Adding 1/2 can of SeaFoam, and a bottle of Gumout Regane High Mileage fuel additive are the 'go to' additives w/ fresh fuel, in old (stale) gas here.. Cleans the fuel system up nicely.
If the timing belt snaps it will be okay. According to this forum it is non interference. But the pulley sure is annoying. I can probably press the bearing out and buy a 10 pack of bearings for $15. Do that on all the mowers that have the same bearing as most of my Chevys.
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