Anyone know what this plug is called? It is a 3 wire plug plugged into a small box but no wires come out of the box. It's located on the passenger side frame rail. I think the yellow wire may go to the alternator, not certain but am thinking maybe I need to replace this on mine. I am having alt issues in that when I check volts between the + battery terminal and + (big) connector on the alt the book says it should be less that .7 volts, mine is reading as high as .95.
It says to check for loose wires, connections, corroded battery terminals and cables. I have located and fixed a couple of suspect things but still not getting less than .7 volts when I do the test.
What is your voltage across the battery engine running? You're dropping .25v over spec but if you are seeing 12.9 across the battery you're chasing a goblin. Are you sure picking up .25v will solve your charging problem?
I have car tore down a bit now so can't test it. I just found the +terminal on starter cylinoid moves around a little in the housing. Wondering if this could be the problem- loose connection.
Don't forget to clean your ground points: Neg. Batt cable, ground tray bolts (remove battery and plastic battery tray to expose), ground tray bolt, engine ground strap (wire) connections ..
Edit: Agree w/ DeeRock, if are showing over 12.25 volts static, and over 14 volts charging, you should be in good shape: if the voltage differential concerns you after Q/A'ing connections and cleaning, consider having the battery load tested, and do a resistance test on the positive Battery cable and Alternator cables.
I'm not certain the .95 reading is gonna kill the regulator or not. The little booklet that comes with the alt had these specs and tests to perform to ensure a good sound curcuit.
14v running should be a good charging system. Curious why you are focusing on the alternator? Do you have a battery light displayed on the cluster? Or is this symptom related?
Appreciate it guys. I am suspect of the alt because I changed it with an O Reilly's one about 2800 miles ago and now am changing it again. Dude said the regulator went out. May have gotten an bad one or maybe there is an issue someplace. This is my daughter's car so I don't want her stranded someplace again.
Can O'reillys do a load test on the battery and do the other stuff you mentioned with everything on the car?
Many shops can - although the testing equipment they use costs several hundred dollars & up to *thousands, for a full diagnostic test station, so testing with that equipment will probably cost some money / a diagnostic fee.
Well worth the money though, to accurately identify / pinpoint the problem quickly, and if done correctly, should also test batt. and alt. cables, which from what I've read, you are suspect of.
re: Alternator, I wouldn't be surprised if the regulator failed quickly out of the box, my experience is they either fail quickly, or last for years.. Been there, have had that happen here also.
Dead battery will overheat the alternator, charging the batt first lets the new alt start it's life off without overworking it.
Most guys add pag oil to a compressor when installing one, which can result in compressions higher than they are rated for, low speed turning by hand will distribute the excess oil in the compressor before engine loading it.
My understanding is neither of these steps are preventing component failure, but they prevent premature failure.
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