There are a number of ways to do this and it partly depends on whether you use LED replacement bulbs or retain the factory halogen bulbs. I highly recommend switching to LED bulbs because they generate very little heat compared to halogen and they draw far less current. The current draw is especially important in determining which factory circuits you can tap into without causing problems.
You will need the following parts:
1 - 30A standard automotive relay (Bosch style)
4 - crimp-on quick connect female terminals to fit the relay
1 - ScotchLock red connector
3 - PosiTap connectors (you could use ScotchLock but it would be awkward to crimp and the wires used are larger so you would need blue or even yellow size)
- a few feet of wire, electrical tape and zip ties
Start by removing the lower knee panel below the steering wheel. To do this you have to remove the panel at the end of the dash first - just pry it off with a plastic body panel tool or some other prying tool that won't damage the plastic. Then remove the screws behind it that hold the knee panel. Pull off the fuse panel cover and disconnect the OBD2 port from the panel. Remove the two hex head screws along the lower edge of the knee panel then carefully pry it off as well. Use a 10mm socket to remove the metal panel behind the plastic knee panel for easier access to the fuse panel and its connectors.
Connect the terminals of the relay as follows:
30 - this is the primary power supply to run the fog lights. It is important to tap into a circuit that can handle the extra current draw and that would not hinder driving should the fuse blow. I chose the rear power outlet circuit because it is unlikely to be in use while driving and if the fuse blows there would be no significant impact. You get it by patching into the green wire at location number 3 of connector IP-A on the fuse panel.
For assistance locating the correct wire, position 1 has red/black, position 2 has red, position 3 is the green wire you want to connect, position 4 has orange/black and at the other end position 10 has white.
87 - this is the output to the fog lights. Patch into the blue/orange wire at location number 5 in connector IP-B on the fuse panel.
For assistance locating the correct wire, position 8 has brown, position 7 has orange, position 6 has pink/black, position 5 is the blue/orange wire you want, position 4 is green and at the other end position 1 is red.
86 - this is the power side of the relay coil. It needs to connect to a circuit that is live only when the ignition is on. The current draw of the relay coil is negligible so any ignition switched circuit should do but I chose to connect to the rear wiper circuit just to be safe. If the fuse should happen to blow and I lose the rear wiper, I can still safely drive the car. This connection is patched into the blue/black wire at location number 17 of connector IP-C on the fuse panel.
For assistance locating the correct wire, position 10 has orange, 9 has orange, 18 has yellow, 17 has the blue/black you want, 8 has blue, 16 has pink and at the other end 1 is yellow.
85 - this is the ground side of the relay coil. If you don't care about being able to turn off the DRL function then this can go to any chassis ground. If you want to be able to turn the DRLs off then you should patch into the pink wire at location number 6 in connector IP-N on the back of the fuse panel. You have to remove three bolts around the edge of the fuse panel in order to pull it down so you can reach the back side (use a 10mm socket). This will allow your fog lights to turn on and off with the factory switch without regard to whether the other lights are on or not.
Note that the connector position image is when looking directly at the back of the fuse panel so the connector is on the left. When you unbolt and pull the fuse panel forward to reach around behind, you will be looking at it from the reverse angle so the connector will be at the top on your right.
For assistance locating the correct wire, position 7 has black, 6 has the pink you want, 5 has grey/orange, and on the adjacent row 18 has white/black, 17 has green/orange and 16 has grey/black. Note that the pink wire is dead center right next to the locking tab of the connector
TEST THOROUGHLY! I will not be responsible for any damage caused by this modification! If in doubt, have an experienced mechanic do the work.
When it's all put together, use electrical tape to insulate the connectors on the relay and zip tie the relay and wires neatly off to the side below the steering column. Bolt the fuse panel back into place. Reinstall the metal panel then the plastic knee panel being careful to reattach the OBD2 port. Carefully twist and snap the dash end panel in place. Replace the fuse cover and enjoy your new daytime running lights.