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There are a number of ways to do this and it partly depends on whether you use LED replacement bulbs or retain the factory halogen bulbs. I highly recommend switching to LED bulbs because they generate very little heat compared to halogen and they draw far less current. The current draw is especially important in determining which factory circuits you can tap into without causing problems.

You will need the following parts:
1 - 30A standard automotive relay (Bosch style)
4 - crimp-on quick connect female terminals to fit the relay
1 - ScotchLock red connector
3 - PosiTap connectors (you could use ScotchLock but it would be awkward to crimp and the wires used are larger so you would need blue or even yellow size)
- a few feet of wire, electrical tape and zip ties

Start by removing the lower knee panel below the steering wheel. To do this you have to remove the panel at the end of the dash first - just pry it off with a plastic body panel tool or some other prying tool that won't damage the plastic. Then remove the screws behind it that hold the knee panel. Pull off the fuse panel cover and disconnect the OBD2 port from the panel. Remove the two hex head screws along the lower edge of the knee panel then carefully pry it off as well. Use a 10mm socket to remove the metal panel behind the plastic knee panel for easier access to the fuse panel and its connectors.

Connect the terminals of the relay as follows:

30 - this is the primary power supply to run the fog lights. It is important to tap into a circuit that can handle the extra current draw and that would not hinder driving should the fuse blow. I chose the rear power outlet circuit because it is unlikely to be in use while driving and if the fuse blows there would be no significant impact. You get it by patching into the green wire at location number 3 of connector IP-A on the fuse panel.

Image

For assistance locating the correct wire, position 1 has red/black, position 2 has red, position 3 is the green wire you want to connect, position 4 has orange/black and at the other end position 10 has white.

87 - this is the output to the fog lights. Patch into the blue/orange wire at location number 5 in connector IP-B on the fuse panel.

Image

For assistance locating the correct wire, position 8 has brown, position 7 has orange, position 6 has pink/black, position 5 is the blue/orange wire you want, position 4 is green and at the other end position 1 is red.

86 - this is the power side of the relay coil. It needs to connect to a circuit that is live only when the ignition is on. The current draw of the relay coil is negligible so any ignition switched circuit should do but I chose to connect to the rear wiper circuit just to be safe. If the fuse should happen to blow and I lose the rear wiper, I can still safely drive the car. This connection is patched into the blue/black wire at location number 17 of connector IP-C on the fuse panel.

Image

For assistance locating the correct wire, position 10 has orange, 9 has orange, 18 has yellow, 17 has the blue/black you want, 8 has blue, 16 has pink and at the other end 1 is yellow.

85 - this is the ground side of the relay coil. If you don't care about being able to turn off the DRL function then this can go to any chassis ground. If you want to be able to turn the DRLs off then you should connect to the pink wire at location number 6 in connector IP-N on the back of the fuse panel. You have to remove three bolts around the edge of the fuse panel in order to pull it down so you can reach the back side (use a 10mm socket). Cut the pink wire and install a diode with the anode end (the end furthest from the stripe marking) connected to the end of the pink wire coming from the IP-N connector. The cathode end (the end closest to the stripe marking) should connect to the other end of the pink wire and to pin 85 of the relay (you should use a short piece of wire between the relay terminal and the diode/pink wire connection). This will allow your fog lights to turn on and off with the factory switch without regard to whether the other lights are on or not.


Image

Note that the connector position image is when looking directly at the back of the fuse panel so the connector is on the left. When you unbolt and pull the fuse panel forward to reach around behind, you will be looking at it from the reverse angle so the connector will be at the top on your right.
For assistance locating the correct wire, position 7 has black, 6 has the pink you want, 5 has grey/orange, and on the adjacent row 18 has white/black, 17 has green/orange and 16 has grey/black. Note that the pink wire is dead center right next to the locking tab of the connector

TEST THOROUGHLY! I will not be responsible for any damage caused by this modification! If in doubt, have an experienced mechanic do the work.

When it's all put together, use electrical tape to insulate the connectors on the relay and zip tie the relay and wires neatly off to the side below the steering column. Bolt the fuse panel back into place. Reinstall the metal panel then the plastic knee panel being careful to reattach the OBD2 port. Carefully twist and snap the dash end panel in place. Replace the fuse cover and enjoy your new daytime running lights.
 
There are a number of ways to do this and it partly depends on whether you use LED replacement bulbs or retain the factory halogen bulbs.

Hey Wiz...great write up, thanks.

Looks like you have access to schematics and there are some of us on the 2016+ forum struggling with this.

Do you have access to the 2016 models and know if this would apply to 2016's too?

Thanks
 
I started driving out of a parking lot and realized my headlights were not working. I have it with the DRL always on. Wow! not headlights, did they both burn out at once or did I hit a switch that turned them off? I have a 2010 Kia Forte Coupe. Can someone help me?
Thanks,

I pulled out of parking lot this evening and found that my headlights were not on. I use my DRL and have never used the switch to turn on headlights. Is there a control I have hit that made the headlights go off or are my bulbs (both at same time) burned out? My manual has not been helpful at all.
Thanks,
 
T
87 - this is the output to the fog lights. Patch into the blue/orange wire at location number 5 in connector IP-B on the fuse panel.

[
Wiz - what terminal on the connector would I use to direct the switched output to the led 'position' lights instead of the 'fog' lights on a '16?

Thanks
 
Hey Wiz...great write up, thanks.

Looks like you have access to schematics and there are some of us on the 2016+ forum struggling with this.

Do you have access to the 2016 models and know if this would apply to 2016's too?

Thanks
Wiz - what terminal on the connector would I use to direct the switched output to the led 'position' lights instead of the 'fog' lights on a '16?

Thanks
Sorry, I don't have schematics for 2016. I paid the $20 charge to get access to the Kia Tech site for 72 hours and looked up as many things for my 2015 as I thought I would need.
 
There are a number of ways to do this and it partly depends on whether you use LED replacement bulbs or retain the factory halogen bulbs. I highly recommend switching to LED bulbs because they generate very little heat compared to halogen and they draw far less current. The current draw is especially important in determining which factory circuits you can tap into without causing problems.

You will need the following parts:
1 - 30A standard automotive relay (Bosch style)
4 - crimp-on quick connect female terminals to fit the relay
1 - ScotchLock red connector
3 - PosiTap connectors (you could use ScotchLock but it would be awkward to crimp and the wires used are larger so you would need blue or even yellow size)
- a few feet of wire, electrical tape and zip ties

Start by removing the lower knee panel below the steering wheel. To do this you have to remove the panel at the end of the dash first - just pry it off with a plastic body panel tool or some other prying tool that won't damage the plastic. Then remove the screws behind it that hold the knee panel. Pull off the fuse panel cover and disconnect the OBD2 port from the panel. Remove the two hex head screws along the lower edge of the knee panel then carefully pry it off as well. Use a 10mm socket to remove the metal panel behind the plastic knee panel for easier access to the fuse panel and its connectors.

Connect the terminals of the relay as follows:

30 - this is the primary power supply to run the fog lights. It is important to tap into a circuit that can handle the extra current draw and that would not hinder driving should the fuse blow. I chose the rear power outlet circuit because it is unlikely to be in use while driving and if the fuse blows there would be no significant impact. You get it by patching into the green wire at location number 3 of connector IP-A on the fuse panel.

Image

For assistance locating the correct wire, position 1 has red/black, position 2 has red, position 3 is the green wire you want to connect, position 4 has orange/black and at the other end position 10 has white.

87 - this is the output to the fog lights. Patch into the blue/orange wire at location number 5 in connector IP-B on the fuse panel.

Image

For assistance locating the correct wire, position 8 has brown, position 7 has orange, position 6 has pink/black, position 5 is the blue/orange wire you want, position 4 is green and at the other end position 1 is red.

86 - this is the power side of the relay coil. It needs to connect to a circuit that is live only when the ignition is on. The current draw of the relay coil is negligible so any ignition switched circuit should do but I chose to connect to the rear wiper circuit just to be safe. If the fuse should happen to blow and I lose the rear wiper, I can still safely drive the car. This connection is patched into the blue/black wire at location number 17 of connector IP-C on the fuse panel.

Image

For assistance locating the correct wire, position 10 has orange, 9 has orange, 18 has yellow, 17 has the blue/black you want, 8 has blue, 16 has pink and at the other end 1 is yellow.

85 - this is the ground side of the relay coil. If you don't care about being able to turn off the DRL function then this can go to any chassis ground. If you want to be able to turn the DRLs off then you should patch into the pink wire at location number 6 in connector IP-N on the back of the fuse panel. You have to remove three bolts around the edge of the fuse panel in order to pull it down so you can reach the back side (use a 10mm socket). This will allow your fog lights to turn on and off with the factory switch without regard to whether the other lights are on or not.

Image

Note that the connector position image is when looking directly at the back of the fuse panel so the connector is on the left. When you unbolt and pull the fuse panel forward to reach around behind, you will be looking at it from the reverse angle so the connector will be at the top on your right.
For assistance locating the correct wire, position 7 has black, 6 has the pink you want, 5 has grey/orange, and on the adjacent row 18 has white/black, 17 has green/orange and 16 has grey/black. Note that the pink wire is dead center right next to the locking tab of the connector

TEST THOROUGHLY! I will not be responsible for any damage caused by this modification! If in doubt, have an experienced mechanic do the work.

When it's all put together, use electrical tape to insulate the connectors on the relay and zip tie the relay and wires neatly off to the side below the steering column. Bolt the fuse panel back into place. Reinstall the metal panel then the plastic knee panel being careful to reattach the OBD2 port. Carefully twist and snap the dash end panel in place. Replace the fuse cover and enjoy your new daytime running lights.
Does doing this affect the warranty on the car at all?
 
What about the diode?

I installed LED replacement bulbs in the fog lights and then hooked them up to run on ignition switched power so that they function as DRLs. That part is quite simple and can be done under the dash with just a standard Bosch-style automotive relay, one diode, some wire and a couple of ScotchLock connectors.
...

You will need the following parts:
1 - 30A standard automotive relay (Bosch style)
4 - crimp-on quick connect female terminals to fit the relay
1 - ScotchLock red connector
3 - PosiTap connectors (you could use ScotchLock but it would be awkward to crimp and the wires used are larger so you would need blue or even yellow size)
- a few feet of wire, electrical tape and zip ties
 
Does doing this affect the warranty on the car at all?
Yes and no. There is no such thing as a modification that will void your warranty. However, warranty repairs can be denied for a specific problem if it is determined that a modification caused the problem. So the dealer can't say that they won't fix a transmission problem under warranty because of this lighting modification but they could say that they won't fix a fog light problem under warranty because of it.
 
What about the diode?
...
Sorry, forgot about that. It's not really necessary but I added it just to avoid any possibility of current back-feed causing unexpected side effects. I have updated the original description to include these changes:

85 - this is the ground side of the relay coil. If you don't care about being able to turn off the DRL function then this can go to any chassis ground. If you want to be able to turn the DRLs off then you should connect to the pink wire at location number 6 in connector IP-N on the back of the fuse panel. You have to remove three bolts around the edge of the fuse panel in order to pull it down so you can reach the back side (use a 10mm socket). Cut the pink wire and install a diode with the anode end (the end furthest from the stripe marking) connected to the end of the pink wire coming from the IP-N connector. The cathode end (the end closest to the stripe marking) should connect to the other end of the pink wire and to pin 85 of the relay (you should use a short piece of wire between the relay terminal and the diode/pink wire connection). This will allow your fog lights to turn on and off with the factory switch without regard to whether the other lights are on or not.
 
Thanks. I'm an EE so I was concerned about back-feeding the system. It's only driving a relay so it's not super critical, but still. If you'd like to share the schematic with me privately so I know exactly what I'm doing, that would be great.
 
Thanks. I'm an EE so I was concerned about back-feeding the system. It's only driving a relay so it's not super critical, but still. If you'd like to share the schematic with me privately so I know exactly what I'm doing, that would be great.
Why sharing it privately? A Forum like this is meant to share everything here, others might want to also do this modification and would benefit by having the schematic available!
 
Well I did mine this morning. Did not use a diode - I simply left the cut pink wire going into the IP-N connector disconnected (but insulated). Also, to make it easier to work on that wire, I unplugged IP-N from the back of the fuse panel. It's got plenty of wire in the harness to allow it to be pulled around to the (left) side while you splice into it, but the connector is tricky to unplug. There's a latch in the middle that you press in, then wiggle the connector to remove it - it's really stiff. My relay is zip-tied to the back side of the support bracket running besides the fuse panel. It's pretty secure there.

I used scotch-lock connectors - no local source for posi-tap, and I have the correct tools and sizes. The pink wire on IP-N I connected using a Spliceline push-in connector.

I already had LED bulbs in my fog lamps - 7.5W SMD 881 bulbs from eBay - around $8 for a pair.

Note - lower knee panel screws are philips, not hex, on my 2015. The side panel is easy to pop out once you pull the door seal away, but then the knee panel requires some fiddling to get from behind the lower panel. Other than that, the instructions above pretty much made it a simple job. I took my time to ensure everything was "just right"..
 

Attachments

Oh, sharp eyes might notice the "add a circuit" on the regular accessory fuse location - that's where I wired in my power feed to the overhead console (for my permanent dash-cam, and an additional USB outlet)..
 
Well I did mine this morning. Did not use a diode - I simply left the cut pink wire going into the IP-N connector disconnected (but insulated). Also, to make it easier to work on that wire, I unplugged IP-N from the back of the fuse panel. It's got plenty of wire in the harness to allow it to be pulled around to the (left) side while you splice into it, but the connector is tricky to unplug. There's a latch in the middle that you press in, then wiggle the connector to remove it - it's really stiff. My relay is zip-tied to the back side of the support bracket running besides the fuse panel. It's pretty secure there.

I used scotch-lock connectors - no local source for posi-tap, and I have the correct tools and sizes. The pink wire on IP-N I connected using a Spliceline push-in connector.

I already had LED bulbs in my fog lamps - 7.5W SMD 881 bulbs from eBay - around $8 for a pair.

Note - lower knee panel screws are philips, not hex, on my 2015. The side panel is easy to pop out once you pull the door seal away, but then the knee panel requires some fiddling to get from behind the lower panel. Other than that, the instructions above pretty much made it a simple job. I took my time to ensure everything was "just right"..
If you could make a very instructive and directional guide for some of us car electronics dummies, i would be very willing to try this with my Scarlet :)

And if these sites can also be translated into English, that'd be great.
 
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